Back in the day I used these guys a lot: https://www.ezaccessory.com/default.asp
Thoughts on Wheel Spacers?
- Thread starter olds307 and 403
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You have to measure your front hub and rear axle to make sure you get the correct bore size and if you don't want to cut your studs get a spacer that has a thickness will slightly exceed the length of your studs but remember this will push the rims out farther possibly creating issues with wheel wells and tight turns.
Ebay has plenty of affordable billet adapters but buy from a reputable seller with good feedback and not just the lowest price.
Ebay has plenty of affordable billet adapters but buy from a reputable seller with good feedback and not just the lowest price.
These spacers has 70.3 mm (2.77") hub opening, tight on the back and a tiny bit too small for the front. I found a 1.5" thick set with a 70.5 mm (2.78") hub opening. I may be just enough extra.
For some reason these have neck down to about 1/4" less which is why they would not fit the front rotors. Supposedly they fit the 3rd Gen Camaro and S-10. This 1.5" set I just ordered don't have the neck down if the picture is right.
Here is the link, https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08972JQM3/?tag=rippca-20 With no neck down in the pic, better not have one, a hair bigger hub size and according to my measurements, factory studs must be around 1.5" long. That means the rims should seat fine, there is a little room for error, just not 3/4" between the factory studs and the rim. Remember these are early A body rims, came with my 70S, the back spacing is very different and two are different, would not even turn on the front. I should have plenty of room, still plenty on the back about a inch out, wheel would not completely seat, had contact on the studs. The front is in so much hitting the top of the control arm and outer tie rod end. I have almost new tires on the factory aluminum rims, just don't want expose them to salt. I soaked the car with Fluid Film and Liquid Wrench Rust Inhibitor and will do it again when the spacers arrive.
I didn't read everything but I have run 1.5" and 2" spacers on my 2+2 to run C5 vette wheels and 15x4.5 front runners on my LS1 front brakes. I had longer studs since I added ~3/8" to the front track width due to my LS1 rotors on the stock spindle.
I did the hubcentric spacer thing but the OD on cast iron G body hub was too large and hit the ID of the hubcentric ring turned in the spacer. I ended up machining the ID of the spacer larger and put a bit taper into both spacers so they would clear. 2" spacer would clear the wheel without the studs hitting the wheel but 1.5 would not. Lucky for me the surface where a pontiac wheel sits on the hub is raised in between the studs so the longer studs (about 1/4") just sit inside a pocket. I am guessing 70 A body steelies don't have that pocket for a longer stud to reside.
I did the hubcentric spacer thing but the OD on cast iron G body hub was too large and hit the ID of the hubcentric ring turned in the spacer. I ended up machining the ID of the spacer larger and put a bit taper into both spacers so they would clear. 2" spacer would clear the wheel without the studs hitting the wheel but 1.5 would not. Lucky for me the surface where a pontiac wheel sits on the hub is raised in between the studs so the longer studs (about 1/4") just sit inside a pocket. I am guessing 70 A body steelies don't have that pocket for a longer stud to reside.
Well, I recieved my PAIR of 1.5" spacers. I thought was 4. Still has that stupid ring, so a 2 3/4" hole saw will be employed to open the hole. Being these are steel rims, I am going let the studs "mark" where I have to drill and let the studs stick through. I will use the 1/2" spacers on the front and the 1.5" spacers which easily clear the factory studs, 1.25" would have worked as well. There should be 0 rubbing, that is how far these rim were inboard. A 2020, nothing can go right. My 403 block isn't going in till 2021, just to be safe.
Well one front spacer is on and the wheel modified and painted. The 2 3/4" hole saw was the perfect size and is still a tight fit on the front rotor. The poverty center caps will cover the extra holes. Of course a bunch of extra enlarging of the holes was necessary to allow the studs to go through, not bind and allow the wheel to seat properly. The second allowing the studs to mark the wheels was off enough to invoke rage. So I am buying a stepped drill set, mine must have been stolen or misplaced. The back 1.5" fit perfect and will make the stance much better, the 1/2" should just clearance enough on the front for no more rubbing but not send the wheel out too far.
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This looked like the perfect application for the $9.99 with Coupon Harbor Freight cut off wheel.
Both New Stock Rotors (with studs) and studs are cheaper than dirt, if you decided to go back to stock.
Both New Stock Rotors (with studs) and studs are cheaper than dirt, if you decided to go back to stock.
I didn't even know they made adapter style spacers in 1/2" I thought they didn't make them because there wouldn't be enough material left over after machining for the recessed lug nuts to be strong enough, but I would have also just trimmed the studs with a grinder since replacement studs are cheap if ever needed.
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