Timing Chain Inspection and Replacement

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Tynan918

Royal Smart Person
Aug 2, 2021
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Is the fan, water pump, and harmonic balancer the only things I remove to get to the timing chain cover ?
20220123_095028.jpg
 
If you are asking what to remove to get to the timing cover, you should stay away from the task you are about to partake on either a gear/chain swap out and or cam. So you pull the cam, then what? I am not aware that the GM cams have any PN stamp on them. Correct me if I'm wrong. If your timing has jumped a tooth and continues to do so, it will get out of timing and at some point will not start if your lucky and don't have the valves kiss the pistons. RPM increase and decrease has nothing to do with timing as you suggest. Are you sure that your distributor is clamped down tightly and NOT rotating?
Yea I did that distributor rotor test, to test the timing chain...

But there is no delay...

I also have a timing light and see the mark doesn't jump around either...

But that timing cover leak is getting bad... And this is my daily driver to and from work... I got to do something about it this weekend...
 
if this is your daily for work , leave the cam alone or your will be bussing it to work Monday.

what engine are we talking about ? a chevy 305 or 350 ?

I would go with a MELLING timing gear set.........but honestly in today's world ...any brand that you get quickly.
 
if this is your daily for work , leave the cam alone or your will be bussing it to work Monday.

what engine are we talking about ? a chevy 305 or 350 ?

I would go with a MELLING timing gear set.........but honestly in today's world ...any brand that you get quickly.

Yea honestly right now isn't a good time but if it NEEDED to be done...hey 🤷🏾‍♂...

We're talkin 305 engine.

Runs great at 1300-1500 idle rpm, and 1100 in gear/under load. I can put my foot in it briefly uphill in my driveway up to 3000-3500 rpm without stalling or wanting to stall and without dieseling at shut off...

But if the idle rpm and in gear rpm are any lower than that, then it dies when I put my foot in it uphill in the driveway, as soon as I take my foot off the gas pedal.
 
remember that you will need to drop the pan too. Some people pry the cover off from the pan and end up bending it which will cause a bigger leak no matter how much sealer you put on it. Best practice is to drop the pan too and put in a new pan gasket. Get the one that comes with the plastic pins that help hold the gasket in place and guide the pan to the block. Fel-Pro calls them Snapups.
 
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Ive got a timing cover leak on the 406 in my coupe. A few people are telling me to fix it with the motor still in the car. The pans got to drop. The starter and headers have to come off to get to the pan. Everything on the front of the motor plus the radiator has to be pulled. At that point, Im pulling the motor and doing the job with the motor on the stand. I'd be really pissed if I did the job in the car and it still leaked. I'd want everything spotless before I put it all back together. I hate doing crap twice but thats just me.
 
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