Timing Chain Inspection and Replacement

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Tynan918

Royal Smart Person
Aug 2, 2021
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Is the fan, water pump, and harmonic balancer the only things I remove to get to the timing chain cover ?
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The issue is the timing cover needs to be installed/removed @ a fairly straight angle. With the oil pan going on last, it prohibits that straight shot required thus why the need to drop the oil pan. Many oil pans don't have enough room to drop w/o raising the engine slightly. Oil pans are also finicky @ the rear seal as well. More than one guy has tried pulling the pan down slightly to allow enough angle to remove the timing cover only to find in doing so they disturbed the rear seal & now will likely have a 2nd leak source.

This is why many opt to fully yank the motor. Doing so allows clear & easy access when reinstalling the tins to minimize the possibility of continued leaks.
This ^^^^^
 
I was a flat rate tech for 24 years. This is a 2-3 hour job. I've done dozens. Never quoted an engine R&R for a SBC timing cover reseal or timing chain replacement. Ever. But I understand, YMMV.

If we're going to be brutally honest, OP should sell this thing and buy a Camry. He doesn't have the tools, experience, or budget for this car right now. It needs a bunch of work and it's not a reliable daily driver. It's the wrong car for this time in his life. Maybe someday, but not now.
 
Another piece of advice. The cover needs to be perfectly clean when you put it back on. Same with the block. Any old gasket material left on either side may be just enough to tweak the cover when you tighten the bolts and you'll have a leak. My motor has to come out because I didnt clean the paint off the alignment pins good enough and the cover didnt seal. The cover got bent ever so slightly by the bolt on the right side. You can see how the gasket is thicker in the photo. It leaks like a faucet. My fault. The worst part of this ? I did the exact same thing when I put the motor in my wagon. Has to pull that out too. A "duh" moment.

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If we're going to be brutally honest, OP should sell this thing and buy a Camry. He doesn't have the tools, experience, or budget for this car right now. It needs a bunch of work and it's not a reliable daily driver. It's the wrong car for this time in his life. Maybe someday, but not now.

IIRC, OP mentioned in another thread he has newborn and this is his only vehicle. Camry or something that isn't a guaranteed death sentence in the event of an accident would be the way to go.
 
I was a flat rate tech for 24 years. This is a 2-3 hour job. I've done dozens. Never quoted an engine R&R for a SBC timing cover reseal or timing chain replacement. Ever. But I understand, YMMV.

If we're going to be brutally honest, OP should sell this thing and buy a Camry. He doesn't have the tools, experience, or budget for this car right now. It needs a bunch of work and it's not a reliable daily driver. It's the wrong car for this time in his life. Maybe someday, but not now.
It's a 2-3hr job when you've done dozens. When you're inquiring about what needs to be removed, the task will be significantly more difficult for the OP because of lack of experience. I KNOW I couldn't do it in a half day & I have a full tool assortment, engine hoist, jack stands, + know what to expect.

Completing the task is one thing. Completing it & actually correcting the leak is not an automatic when 'done'. I also 100% agree this is not the right time in life for owning the car.
 
You don't need to remove the engine. problem is the gasket at the bottom of the timing chain cover does seal the front of the oil pan. If you ever build a small block Chevy you will see the timing chain cover was meant to be installed before the oil pan.

View attachment 190984

It goes in this groove in the timing chain cover.
View attachment 190985
You need to glue that seal into that groove with real glue not RTV (use a Shellac type glue) you will fight with the cover to get it back in, this seal cannot move when you are doing it. Put RTV on the tabs where that rubber seal meets the existing oil pan gasket.
View attachment 190986
Remember the oil pan gasket is a filthy mess the RTV will not stick to it. Best to put a very small bead of RTV and let it form a skin (harden up a little) so it can press against the pan gasket firmly sealing with compression instead of sticking to it, since it will not stick.

Another thing that can help is to loosen the pan bolts a little, do not pry the pan down it will ruin the gasket, loosening it will make the timing chain cover easier to remove and replace and can help tighten up that front gasket. Tighten all the bolts on the timing chain cover. Then retighten the oil pan bolts.
That being said, I won't need to drop the oil pan to remove timing cover ?
 
And if I can get this car running correctly, I can get a job and have a budget for tools to fix it...

Tried selling it, getting no offers to trade for something reliable...

Its either sit or fix it, and I can't sit...
 
That being said, I won't need to drop the oil pan to remove timing cover ?
Yes, the oil pan has to be dropped to allow servicing the timing chain cover. 'How much' it has to be dropped is subjective. It is possible to loosen most of the bolts @ the front sides of the pan & drop it slightly. It needs to come down enough to clear the inner flange @ the bottom of the timing cover.

But, do so knowing you can possibly create leaks that might not be there. It's a gamble how well the oil pan-to-timing cover area will reseal as both require installation-finesse for leak free installation. Prying the front of the pan down to minimize what has to be removed decreases the limits of that finesse. A buddy did a successful timing gear change on my old Malibu by loosening the bolts & wiggling the timing cover in & out. He figured he had a 50/50 shot so he took the chance (he is a GM tech so he does the work for a living). He used a pretty fair amount of silicone/Gasket maker to increase his chances of success where the 2 parts meet/seal against each other. It was ugly but worked.
 
And if I can get this car running correctly, I can get a job and have a budget for tools to fix it...

Tried selling it, getting no offers to trade for something reliable...

Its either sit or fix it, and I can't sit...
Not trying to discourage you brother. We're just trying to help you understand sometimes there's more to it than just doing it.
 
Not trying to discourage you brother. We're just trying to help you understand sometimes there's more to it than just doing it.
I understand, but all I have right now is "just doing it" or I'm a sitting duck...

If need to be, I can drive the car to my grandparents house to fix it. My grandpa and uncles are mechanics and have all the space, experience, and tools I need to do anything...They're just old (grandparents), and I try my best to handle it on my own before coming to them...

I've swapped a motor from a '79 Impala, done plenty of top end motor work, and have removed and installed multiple transmissions in my life time...

Just saying, while I may not know some things I ask here in this forum, that doesn't mean I'm completely new to this kind of work...and believe me, if I didn't think I could do this, I wouldn't even ask how...
 
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