This ^^^^^The issue is the timing cover needs to be installed/removed @ a fairly straight angle. With the oil pan going on last, it prohibits that straight shot required thus why the need to drop the oil pan. Many oil pans don't have enough room to drop w/o raising the engine slightly. Oil pans are also finicky @ the rear seal as well. More than one guy has tried pulling the pan down slightly to allow enough angle to remove the timing cover only to find in doing so they disturbed the rear seal & now will likely have a 2nd leak source.
This is why many opt to fully yank the motor. Doing so allows clear & easy access when reinstalling the tins to minimize the possibility of continued leaks.
If we're going to be brutally honest, OP should sell this thing and buy a Camry. He doesn't have the tools, experience, or budget for this car right now. It needs a bunch of work and it's not a reliable daily driver. It's the wrong car for this time in his life. Maybe someday, but not now.
It's a 2-3hr job when you've done dozens. When you're inquiring about what needs to be removed, the task will be significantly more difficult for the OP because of lack of experience. I KNOW I couldn't do it in a half day & I have a full tool assortment, engine hoist, jack stands, + know what to expect.I was a flat rate tech for 24 years. This is a 2-3 hour job. I've done dozens. Never quoted an engine R&R for a SBC timing cover reseal or timing chain replacement. Ever. But I understand, YMMV.
If we're going to be brutally honest, OP should sell this thing and buy a Camry. He doesn't have the tools, experience, or budget for this car right now. It needs a bunch of work and it's not a reliable daily driver. It's the wrong car for this time in his life. Maybe someday, but not now.
That being said, I won't need to drop the oil pan to remove timing cover ?You don't need to remove the engine. problem is the gasket at the bottom of the timing chain cover does seal the front of the oil pan. If you ever build a small block Chevy you will see the timing chain cover was meant to be installed before the oil pan.
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It goes in this groove in the timing chain cover.
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You need to glue that seal into that groove with real glue not RTV (use a Shellac type glue) you will fight with the cover to get it back in, this seal cannot move when you are doing it. Put RTV on the tabs where that rubber seal meets the existing oil pan gasket.
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Remember the oil pan gasket is a filthy mess the RTV will not stick to it. Best to put a very small bead of RTV and let it form a skin (harden up a little) so it can press against the pan gasket firmly sealing with compression instead of sticking to it, since it will not stick.
Another thing that can help is to loosen the pan bolts a little, do not pry the pan down it will ruin the gasket, loosening it will make the timing chain cover easier to remove and replace and can help tighten up that front gasket. Tighten all the bolts on the timing chain cover. Then retighten the oil pan bolts.
Yes, the oil pan has to be dropped to allow servicing the timing chain cover. 'How much' it has to be dropped is subjective. It is possible to loosen most of the bolts @ the front sides of the pan & drop it slightly. It needs to come down enough to clear the inner flange @ the bottom of the timing cover.That being said, I won't need to drop the oil pan to remove timing cover ?
Not trying to discourage you brother. We're just trying to help you understand sometimes there's more to it than just doing it.And if I can get this car running correctly, I can get a job and have a budget for tools to fix it...
Tried selling it, getting no offers to trade for something reliable...
Its either sit or fix it, and I can't sit...
I understand, but all I have right now is "just doing it" or I'm a sitting duck...Not trying to discourage you brother. We're just trying to help you understand sometimes there's more to it than just doing it.
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