BUILD THREAD Tomeal's Elky Build

[Tomeal]

Your progress is motivational- anything I accomplish on my car this week is because I'm trying to keep up with you. Way to go, man.

I appreciate the comment. There are others here that are more motivational.

I sometimes drag my feet on doing something because I think it will be hard. But just starting on it and working through it is very redeeming.

Guess the statement of go do anything at all is worth while! Even if its small, its something. If you need a break, take a break! Sometimes that allows your head to clear and you will find a new or different way!

 

[Tomeal]

I'm not asking anymore!



Trying to fix the rear brakes on this thing. Fights me at every turn.

I'll get those f'n lines out now!

 

[Ugly1]

I'm not asking anymore!

View attachment 247550

Trying to fix the rear brakes on this thing. Fights me at every turn.

I'll get those f'n lines out now!

If it’s a liquid…Just don’t pop the sensor’s top!

 

[Tomeal]

New master, new booster, new prop valve. New hard lines and hoses. Prop valve is for disc/disc. Front brakes hold good. Rear brakes can't hold at idle.

It has to be air. I've replaced d@mn near everything else. I'll let it gravity bleed. Re-bleed it again after and see where its at.

Uuuughh!

 

[Tomeal]

* edited last post

Rear brakes CAN'T (can't) hold at idle.

Just seems how my night is going.

 

[CopperNick]

Proportioning valves come with a release button on them; at least the factory versions do/did/might have. For bleeding a completely new system. that release button has to be depressed and kept down. That allows the proportioning valve to "free flow" meaning that it isn't trying to maintain the residual pressure in the rear circuit that it is in the system to do. In that free flow mode, the brake fluid can move more easilly and readily out into the circuits.

Once you get the air and frustration out of the system, and the brake pedal seems to be consistent for feel and action, then release the button and the valve will go back to keeping line pressure resident in the rear circuit

With disc front/drum rear, the final test is with the engine running and vacuum on the brake booster. For myself I have taken the extra steps of replacing both the vacuum hose from the intake as well as the one way valve that plugs into the booster body on several occasions. Both are cheap and neither tends to want to tell you that it is about to betray you.


Nick

 

[Tomeal]

Proportioning valves come with a release button on them; at least the factory versions do/did/might have. For bleeding a completely new system. that release button has to be depressed and kept down. That allows the proportioning valve to "free flow" meaning that it isn't trying to maintain the residual pressure in the rear circuit that it is in the system to do. In that free flow mode, the brake fluid can move more easilly and readily out into the circuits.

Once you get the air and frustration out of the system, and the brake pedal seems to be consistent for feel and action, then release the button and the valve will go back to keeping line pressure resident in the rear circuit

With disc front/drum rear, the final test is with the engine running and vacuum on the brake booster. For myself I have taken the extra steps of replacing both the vacuum hose from the intake as well as the one way valve that plugs into the booster body on several occasions. Both are cheap and neither tends to want to tell you that it is about to betray you.


Nick

I just put a new booster and master cylinder on it. Replaced the proportioning valve with a new disc/disc one. It doesnt have the button like the disc/drum one did. (That got me in the past.)

My son stopped over and i had him help me bleed them again. It is still barely stopping the rear. We had a decent pedal, then felt soft later when i test drove it.

I gravity bled it for three hours the other night. I still got some air out when my son and i bled it.

I pulled out and put it in the small garage under the house. I have some other stuff that needs worked on and i need the space in the big garage.

Im going to take a break on it. I already fired the parts cannon at it. Air in the system is the last thing left.

 

[pagrunt]

I just put a new booster and master cylinder on it. Replaced the proportioning valve with a new disc/disc one. It doesnt have the button like the disc/drum one did. (That got me in the past.)

My son stopped over and i had him help me bleed them again. It is still barely stopping the rear. We had a decent pedal, then felt soft later when i test drove it.

I gravity bled it for three hours the other night. I still got some air out when my son and i bled it.

I pulled out and put it in the small garage under the house. I have some other stuff that needs worked on and i need the space in the big garage.

Im going to take a break on it. I already fired the parts cannon at it. Air in the system is the last thing left.

Do you have the tool that replaces the kight warning switch to keep the insides center to allow equal pressure after bleeding?

 

[Tomeal]

Do you have the tool that replaces the kight warning switch to keep the insides center to allow equal pressure after bleeding?

No

This prop valve doesnt have the centering button on it like the old disc/drum one. Didnt think about that. It went from a hard pedal when bleeding to a softer pedal when i test drove it. Ill look into that tool, unless you think the valve should have it.

 

[pagrunt]

No

This prop valve doesnt have the centering button on it like the old disc/drum one. Didnt think about that. It went from a hard pedal when bleeding to a softer pedal when i test drove it. Ill look into that tool, unless you think the valve should have it.

There's this guy on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Team-Performance-Brake-Proportioning-Bleeder/dp/B07BYVK7SN/?tag=gbody-20