Turbo 350 Oldsmobile build.

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Ok, time to throw in my 2 cents. I agree on quite a few points that Pencero made. But It's your motor and your money, that's what it boils down to. First know the strengths and weaknesses of the small block Olds.
Strengths of this motor are it's longevity due to superior metal blocks and rotating assembly. This motor also is the most efficient GM engine design with a carburetor PERIOD. (The year 1990 proves this when it was the only engine with a carb and still had superior efficiency verses GMs other V8s that had FI starting in 1987. And it was pulling heavy Fleetwood Cadilliacs If anyone wants to argue this, start another post.)
From 1985 down, All Olds motor were the same basic design. Any of these low compression motors no mater the size, (lets leave the 260 out of this.) can be successfully boosted if done right. The last Turbo Olds small block I saw was putting out 600hp at the wheels and it was barely street friendly.

Now the weaknesses, The '76 350 you speak of can take and still be reliable under boosted conditions. (FI is your ONLY option for that statement to be true.) Then the fact it is a 76 non windowed main engine means the block is good, but not the rotating assembly. You would at the very least, need a Nodular iron crank to take reliable power even at 400 hp. Yes I know that the plain iron cranks can take up to 500 hp, but those are not under the strain of boost. The last Nodular cranks were installed in small blocks approximately up to 1973.
All this means your limited to under 400hp. Which can be made with just the FI alone. 400hp can also be made easily with Performer RPM kit. (Carb, Cam kit and Intake.)

The biggest weakness of the Olds small block is the LACK of knowledgable tuners to make it produce good power.
Example, The famed W31 350 was a sneaky project from Olds to stay competitive in racing after they shot themselves in the foot by changing the stroke of the 400 BBO in 68. Any owner of a original W31 will tell you that he beat several big block cars. All the power numbers were illusions, except the time slips. The illusion faded in 1970 because too many W31s were running as fast as big blocks in the NHRA during the 68-69 seasons. That is the reason the car that was supposed to show case the W31 in '70 (The Rallye 350) barely had he motor installed in them. Having a 1970 Rallye 350 with a W31 is very rare. Most had the plain high compression 350.
My point, If the factory can tune a small block to keep up with a big block, then why do most builders/ tuners today say "just get a big block" or " The small block Olds can't make or handle that kind of power".
Unless your trying to build a screaming 600hp 350 motor, it doesn't need to be W31 spec.
 
Of course all of this is 100% ridiculous thats why I will do it I have maybe 1 more non windowed block to my disposal. Im not trying to sound like a trainwreck. And I sure hope its not a 1man team...thats why I have you guys 😀.

Ok maybe I sould've been more clearer. Its not a daily engine, I said I want it to be treated like one. Turn key and go. Now we all know the obvious challanging part would be the fuel setup. And EFI systems are the obvious choice. I dont want reasoning and common sense being thrown at me because its too much $$$, rather throw me some ideas and some advice.

How many people you think tried to stop this guy
100_3093.jpg

Im not saying shoot me down but rather give me constructive criticism
 
jetsetw31 said:
Now the weaknesses, The '76 350 you speak of can take and still be reliable under boosted conditions. (FI is your ONLY option for that statement to be true.) Then the fact it is a 76 non windowed main engine means the block is good, but not the rotating assembly. You would at the very least, need a Nodular iron crank to take reliable power even at 400 hp. Yes I know that the plain iron cranks can take up to 500 hp, but those are not under the strain of boost. The last Nodular cranks were installed in small blocks approximately up to 1973.
All this means your limited to under 400hp. Which can be made with just the FI alone. 400hp can also be made easily with Performer RPM kit. (Carb, Cam kit and Intake.)

The biggest weakness of the Olds small block is the LACK of knowledgable tuners to make it produce good power.
Example, The famed W31 350 was a sneaky project from Olds to stay competitive in racing after they shot themselves in the foot by changing the stroke of the 400 BBO in 68. Any owner of a original W31 will tell you that he beat several big block cars. All the power numbers were illusions, except the time slips. The illusion faded in 1970 because too many W31s were running as fast as big blocks in the NHRA during the 68-69 seasons. That is the reason the car that was supposed to show case the W31 in '70 (The Rallye 350) barely had he motor installed in them. Having a 1970 Rallye 350 with a W31 is very rare. Most had the plain high compression 350.
My point, If the factory can tune a small block to keep up with a big block, then why do most builders/ tuners today say "just get a big block" or " The small block Olds can't make or handle that kind of power".
Unless your trying to build a screaming 600hp 350 motor, it doesn't need to be W31 spec.

I imagined the rotating assembly woud be the weakest link. A nod. Crank is my best bet. I know of a 70 olds 88 with a 350 is this far back enough for it to have a nod. Crank? I know mondello specializes in olds motors maybe I can find specialty parts there...
 
theoldsone said:
jetsetw31 said:
I imagined the rotating assembly woud be the weakest link. A nod. Crank is my best bet. I know of a 70 olds 88 with a 350 is this far back enough for it to have a nod. Crank? I know mondello specializes in olds motors maybe I can find specialty parts there...

Remember the 68' SBO 350 I said I bought? Well I hung on to it for 5 years. I ended up selling the high compression pistons but scrapped the seasoned block and nodular crank. Timing never seems to work out.....
 
Now that I've given you the pros and cons. Here's what you can use to do this.
Get a larger turbo than you would see on a Turbo V6. Why? Yes, it can make big horse power, but it also is more reliable at lower speeds than a small turbo. Meaning a small turbo will make boost instantly on a V8 and that is not what you want on a DD street engine. You want the power to kick in late. That way it will drive normal at low rpms then the boost will come in at around 2500 to 4000 rpms and up. 8 pounds at those rpms won't hit that hard and be easier on the motor. Basically you'll be making turbo lag your friend.
With this kind of set up in mind, a Performer RPM intake will be good choice with the FI and can handle more if you ever go that route. The Accel EFI is a very good choice. Only port injection can out do it.

As far as Exhaust go, your engine compartment is small and will be very difficult to plumb pipes forward effectively. This will be your biggest challenge for sure. Because you have the accessories to deal with and keep heat away from. Now a normal set of 350 exhaust manifolds may actually be a good bet using 2 driver side manifolds and custom piping. This way you have more options about the turbo placement.

Your #8 heads can handle this set up just fine. I suggest blocking off the exhaust crossover ports and using ARP head studs not bolts.
The camshaft, from stock to mild. Using a performance cam over 270 duration will hurt your drivability and turbo spec cams for Olds are all for making big power.
Freshen up the motor. New bearings, re-ring the pistons, and ARP the rods and mains.
Your idea is very doable so don't be discouraged from it.
T
 
Anubis said:
Remember the 68' SBO 350 I said I bought? Well I hung on to it for 5 years. I ended up selling the high compression pistons but scrapped the seasoned block and nodular crank. Timing never seems to work out.....

Nooooo, You didn't !!!!!! :puke: I feel your pain.
T
 
theoldsone said:
I imagined the rotating assembly woud be the weakest link. A nod. Crank is my best bet. I know of a 70 olds 88 with a 350 is this far back enough for it to have a nod. Crank? I know mondello specializes in olds motors maybe I can find specialty parts there...

If you can keep your foot out of it then your crank will be fine. You can Halo the mains if your foot is a problem. If you get HP greedy then yes you need a good strong crank and rods. My suggestion would be build another motor to get crazy with.
With the motor you have now, you will see if you want more power, but I don't think you will be disappointed at all. With the set up I told you about, the main set back from big power is the short block holding up.
T
 
I wasn't trying to shoot you down guy! Carry on! I was just saying what they said more artfully; w/ the low psi turbo it would have been too beast for the streets!
 
Regular manifolds could be used but flow awful. Probably not a big deal on a turbo car. The #8 heads are very good, just need bowl work to equal early heads for flow. For some reason Olds put a weird lip just under the exhaust valve. Remove it and the rest of port is decent. A spare motor with a better aftermarket forged pistons, rods and a factory nodular or 330 forged crank will take a lot of abuse. Another bonus of number 8 heads is lower compression ratio with quality on the forged pistons is 9 to 1 or slightly less compression. Early heads would give 10 to 1 or better with the same pistons.
 
theoldsone said:
How many people you think tried to stop this guy
100_3093.jpg


Apparently not enough... :roll:

How much boost does that turbo generate when the butterflies are opened?
 
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