Uhhh, you need to properly dispose of the old ones, as in they need a Cheech and Chong end to their existence (vids please).
CUTLASS Turbo LS Cutlass, almost road ready
- Thread starter Buster
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Thanks! Nope, no IAC.
I have cold start much, much better now than it was in that video.
I can actually start it up cold without any throttle and let it warm up a few seconds and then put it in gear and move it, LOL before it would die once I put it in gear, and needed some throttle to get going and keep it idling for a minute or so.
I asked about that because I know about Microsquirts and no idle air control. You truly don't need an IAC if you can start it and let it run for 30-45 seconds before standing on the loud pedal at 100%. I've spent more time trying to tune IAC's for 'factory like' cold and hot starts, when in reality it's all BS. You have a factory rated 280HP motor that you're making 700 hp with and someone b*tches that you can't start it up, put it in gear and go when it's 30 degrees outside - forget those people - they probably eat bagels and head to Starbucks for the $8 a cup coffee.
Hopefully you don't eat bagels and drink Starbucks coffee - lol.
nah, I make my own coffee and drink it black hahahaha.
I feel ya, deep down in my soul. I never understood dudes that wanted to make 1000hp with junk but also drive like stock junk.
I feel ya, deep down in my soul. I never understood dudes that wanted to make 1000hp with junk but also drive like stock junk.
It's possible, but difficult. Probably harder with a microsquirt though.
The lack of iac makes like an old school car with a carb. Hot starts might need a throttle tap of throttle held at 50% or so. When slowing down and you snap the throttle shut, the iac isn’t there to keep it running if if needs more air, etc.
After tuning a car without one, I now turn off the iac or unplug it to get the base tune set so as to not have to chase it. Idea being if I can keep it running and starting without it, then it is much easier to dial it in with a very good tune initially.
Almost the same way I set mine up, and it idles like factory at 700 rpm with a 226/232 0.600" lift cam. At hot idle I only use 2% IAC.
very cool. I don't have a problem with IACs or anything like that lol. I typically have always used DBW throttle bodies, super easy to dial in idle and cold/hot starts.
But in my particular situation, running a cam with 109LSA and a lot of advertised duration, it doesn't really like to idle below 800ish rpms. I did have it idling really well around 900rpms. But cold starts needed a little bit of help with throttle input for a minute or so before it would idle well. But, being that I don't have an IAC, once I put it in gear it will die without the extra air the IAC provides LOL.
So, in my situation, its just easier to have idle set at 1100ish rpms. It'll cold and hot start just fine on its own, and once I put it in gear the idle drops to just above 900 rpms. So it sounds sick at the redlight, in gear with my foot on the brake LOLOL.
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