Update to my (frame off restoration) 1979 Cutlass Calais

[liquidh8]

I love how the frame boxing was done!

Thanks a lot! I do too. From what I understand.....the boxed frame should support the t-tops better.

I should. I just like the how frame profile was carried. Most boxing jobs just weld flat plate in there. Who did the work?

 

[olds307 and 403]

The W31 was underated, actually had 360 hp, only 10 less than the LT1. Considering it had less compression, hydraulic cam and awful manifolds, pretty impressive. Most Olds don't need anywhere near 6000 rpm to make great power. My track times have yielded mid 15's with issues as always. Only need 3 tenths to equal 14's, jet change, power piston spring, better coil, slower advance curve and posi should do it. My trans shifts at 4800, may only raise it to 5000 rpm with the 425 SBO. I would rather have the strong torque curve from the bottom right across than the sbc/ls all up top power curve. The reason I asked is to make sure number 8 or much worse 3A heads weren't slapped on. Some people do strange things.

 

[Pharozen]

I've read the last few post several times, and from the research I've done, it seems that the wise thing to do is match up your exhaust manifolds (headers), intake, and cam to make sure they all compliment each other.

I'm still a newbie to this, so can someone simply explain and recommend the best setup of headers and cam to compliment the edlebrock aluminum dual plane intake and that I already have. I don't need all the horsepower in the world, but I just want something to let people know that I'm there. What's a good set up for the olds 350?

 

[olds307 and 403]

If your heads are number 5, that should mean a 68 350. Compression will depend on the pistons used. I would go mild for the cam. Go something like the Lunati 207/207 .461/.461 high efficiency series. Add Hedman long tubes and dual exhaust.

 

[jetsetw31]

I've read the last few post several times, and from the research I've done, it seems that the wise thing to do is match up your exhaust manifolds (headers), intake, and cam to make sure they all compliment each other.

I'm still a newbie to this, so can someone simply explain and recommend the best setup of headers and cam to compliment the edlebrock aluminum dual plane intake and that I already have. I don't need all the horsepower in the world, but I just want something to let people know that I'm there. What's a good set up for the olds 350?

You right about matching parts. But the big emphasis with Olds is a free flowing carb, stable ignition, and exhaust. Notice, I did not say intake. The first point of flow is the carb and it controls the flow into the motor. Intakes controls how the air fuel mix goes into the heads. In the Oldsmobile 350 the stock iron manifold can handle up to a 800 cfm Quadrajet carb. (I say this because I've done it quite a few times) the aluminum stock intake flows just like the iron one. The aftermarket dual planes for Olds are not that big of an increase over stock. Mainly because the heads are still stock. the extra room the aftermarket dual planes provide doesn't mean it's going into the heads better.(Now this is Olds small block talk, Chevys act different.) Even the famed performer RPM needs head work to take advantage of its high flow.
Throwing a lot of aftermarket stuff at a Olds 350 can actually hurt your performance.
Ignition improvement always had a night and day effect on the Olds. The HEI killed high rpm on all GM motors. The best mod for the HEI is MSD's Module. Others make decent modules but I use MSD in all my non CCC HEIs. Then any aftermarket distributer is a improvement on the HEI. (My early motors used dual point distributer conversions. They were cheap and they worked.)
Cams.
Olds has used the SAME base factory cam in all of their 350s. The stock cam can handle up to 5500+ rpms with the the big carb and free flow exhaust. the only real differences were carbs (2bbl and 4bbl)and heads. (High and low compression.) Olds did change them for higher output 350s. (Mainly just putting a stock or W big block came in them. Then Boom! you got more power.) (Olds even put the base 350 cam in the 307 to make the 307 HO.)
As far as aftermarket cams go, they mostly require head work.(port matching, runner work, bigger valves, Or better heads.) Most head work will increase the rpm of the engine above the base factory cams limit. In your case, It comes down to how are you gonna drive the car.
Flow tech makes a good set for the 350 that will flow well. The part number is 11152 and pricing is around $170. A good idea is to use copper gaskets on both ends and locking header bolt on the heads. 2 1/4 exhaust pipes to the rear will be good for your needs. That will definitely make a great sound and street power.
IMO, your carb, the factory aluminum intake, mod your HEI, and a free flow exhaust will get you smiling. More than that means you will be going into the motor. ( ie. Cams and Heads)
You should be pleased. 8)
T

 

[olds307 and 403]

I agree with everything but the Flowtech headers. I had a pair of the A body headers ceramic coated. Rusted everywhere within a year and needed double gaskets not to leak. I tried copper header gaskets and they leaked. The copper or aluminum collector gaskets work great. Many people have had fitment issues the G body Flowtech headers. The Hedman supposedly fit better and have the ball and socket collector flange.

 

[pontiacgp]

I agree with everything but the Flowtech headers. I had a pair of the A body headers ceramic coated. Rusted everywhere within a year and needed double gaskets not to leak. I tried copper header gaskets and they leaked. The copper or aluminum collector gaskets work great. Many people have had fitment issues the G body Flowtech headers. The Hedman supposedly fit better and have the ball and socket collector flange.

I have the Hedman with the ball and socket collector and it works great. No gasket to blow out and never leaks. As for ceramic coating it needs to be done on the inside of the header as well as the outside, Headers rust out from the inside faster than from the outside

 

[Pharozen]

If your heads are number 5, that should mean a 68 350. Compression will depend on the pistons used. I would go mild for the cam. Go something like the Lunati 207/207 .461/.461 high efficiency series. Add Hedman long tubes and dual exhaust.

This is good talk because I've heard that I have a '68 Olds 350 (we all know that the earlier olds were made beefier) but I've never been able to verify for myself that it's a 1968 olds. The next question is, how can I determine if my heads are #5? Where do I look at?

 

[Pharozen]

I've read the last few post several times, and from the research I've done, it seems that the wise thing to do is match up your exhaust manifolds (headers), intake, and cam to make sure they all compliment each other.

I'm still a newbie to this, so can someone simply explain and recommend the best setup of headers and cam to compliment the edlebrock aluminum dual plane intake and that I already have. I don't need all the horsepower in the world, but I just want something to let people know that I'm there. What's a good set up for the olds 350?

You right about matching parts. But the big emphasis with Olds is a free flowing carb, stable ignition, and exhaust. Notice, I did not say intake. The first point of flow is the carb and it controls the flow into the motor. Intakes controls how the air fuel mix goes into the heads. In the Oldsmobile 350 the stock iron manifold can handle up to a 800 cfm Quadrajet carb. (I say this because I've done it quite a few times) the aluminum stock intake flows just like the iron one. The aftermarket dual planes for Olds are not that big of an increase over stock. Mainly because the heads are still stock. the extra room the aftermarket dual planes provide doesn't mean it's going into the heads better.(Now this is Olds small block talk, Chevys act different.) Even the famed performer RPM needs head work to take advantage of its high flow.
Throwing a lot of aftermarket stuff at a Olds 350 can actually hurt your performance.
Ignition improvement always had a night and day effect on the Olds. The HEI killed high rpm on all GM motors. The best mod for the HEI is MSD's Module. Others make decent modules but I use MSD in all my non CCC HEIs. Then any aftermarket distributer is a improvement on the HEI. (My early motors used dual point distributer conversions. They were cheap and they worked.)
Cams.
Olds has used the SAME base factory cam in all of their 350s. The stock cam can handle up to 5500+ rpms with the the big carb and free flow exhaust. the only real differences were carbs (2bbl and 4bbl)and heads. (High and low compression.) Olds did change them for higher output 350s. (Mainly just putting a stock or W big block came in them. Then Boom! you got more power.) (Olds even put the base 350 cam in the 307 to make the 307 HO.)
As far as aftermarket cams go, they mostly require head work.(port matching, runner work, bigger valves, Or better heads.) Most head work will increase the rpm of the engine above the base factory cams limit. In your case, It comes down to how are you gonna drive the car.
Flow tech makes a good set for the 350 that will flow well. The part number is 11152 and pricing is around $170. A good idea is to use copper gaskets on both ends and locking header bolt on the heads. 2 1/4 exhaust pipes to the rear will be good for your needs. That will definitely make a great sound and street power.
IMO, your carb, the factory aluminum intake, mod your HEI, and a free flow exhaust will get you smiling. More than that means you will be going into the motor. ( ie. Cams and Heads)
You should be pleased. 8)
T

@Jetsetw31---This is good information, especially the part you said about throwing a lot of aftermarket parts at an olds 350 could actually hinder it.....I agree. From what I hear, the only thing you need to do with a stock olds 350 is to go with an over-sized cam and some headers. You mentioned that the type of carb is important for breathing, so what do you think about the one I have?

I love your post, especially the paragraph where you are talking about Flow Tech and the 2 1/4 exhaust pipes. The only reservation I have is that, I read earlier in someone else post that if you put "cheap heads" (i.e., $170 Flow Techs) on a olds, that it won't workout well....would you consider the Flow tech to be insufficient to the olds 350?

 

[jetsetw31]

From what I hear, the only thing you need to do with a stock olds 350 is to go with an over-sized cam and some headers. You mentioned that the type of carb is important for breathing, so what do you think about the one I have?

I love your post, especially the paragraph where you are talking about Flow Tech and the 2 1/4 exhaust pipes. The only reservation I have is that, I read earlier in someone else post that if you put "cheap heads" (i.e., $170 Flow Techs) on a olds, that it won't workout well....would you consider the Flow tech to be insufficient to the olds 350?

I'm not sure what CFM your carb is. If your part number is 9972 then it is a 750 cfm. Not sure what the other part numbers are but, they are most likely lower than a 750.
When it comes to street cams some of the 270 duration cams are good power cams without going into the engine to match the cam.
The Flow tech will be fine. I've seen Hooker headers that blew through the welds and those cost twice as much. All these companies have quality control but every now and then a bad one gets by. Always check the welds closely before you install any header no matter how much you paid. Never buy a 18 gauge steel header. Most decent headers are 16 ga and under.