Water in cylinders, now what?

[Ribbedroof]

"cheap, efficient, and reliable"

Those 3 seldom travel together

Facebook Marketplace is typically full of Gen 1 SBC pretty cheap, not terribly efficient though. Reliability is all over the map, depending on how honest the seller is

IMO, an LS swap is not going to be cheap.

 

[pontiac guy]

Use a trans funnel or some other way to get it into the cylinder. Just dumping it down the carb will ultimately get it into the same cylinders but you have no control how much will go where.

 

[JAMCAR223]

Not passing judgement on anybody... but a .10 cent trash bag would have saved this motor.

 

[LT1B-Body]

Not passing judgement on anybody... but a .10 cent trash bag would have saved this motor.

Yup.
The owner sent the car to a shop to have it worked on, but the s
They took the money and ran, and never fixed anything. It "ran" before the going to the shop, but came back inop.
I assume the shop removed the hood for primer, but left the car outside unprotected in the AZ monsoons.

 

[ck80]

Yup.
The owner sent the car to a shop to have it worked on, but the s
They took the money and ran, and never fixed anything. It "ran" before the going to the shop, but came back inop.
I assume the shop removed the hood for primer, but left the car outside unprotected in the AZ monsoons.

Look at it like this...

Water started outside the engine. This wasn't a headgasket blown or coolant passage allowing leakage into the cylinder.

So, BEFORE the water could make its way into the combustion chamber, it needed to go through the carb, down the intake, THROUGH THE CYLINDER HEADS, and into the combustion chamber.

It also begs the question, has oil been drained to check what if anything passed into the crankcase?

So, if after passing through all those areas the cylinder became badly rusted, what kind of shape are heads/valves/springs in? If water is in the crankcase what, if anything, has happened down there? Remember heat/cooling cycles make surface condensation in every space the water was present.

So consider that for trying to drive with that engine.

 

[08Malibu]

Yup.
The owner sent the car to a shop to have it worked on, but the s
They took the money and ran, and never fixed anything. It "ran" before the going to the shop, but came back inop.
I assume the shop removed the hood for primer, but left the car outside unprotected in the AZ monsoons.

How long was it sitting with water in it?

 

[fleming442]

It's junk.....



SEND IT!!!!

 

[LT1B-Body]

How long was it sitting with water in it?

No idea. Probably not to long, as it doesn't rain much here.

 

[LT1B-Body]

Assuming that the rust can be honed out, is this something I can do at home?
The autozone has an engine Hone as a rental tool. Plus this Re-Ring kit from summit and it should be good. Maybe?

 

[ck80]

Assuming that the rust can be honed out, is this something I can do at home?
The autozone has an engine Hone as a rental tool. Plus this Re-Ring kit from summit and it should be good. Maybe?

Again, doubtful.

At that point you're basically talking a full rebuild worth of labor so, I ask, why do it to a water saturated 305?

1) to hone you need to make sure youre going straight up and down centered on bores. So probably building a jig to hold everything lined up.

2) that lg4 may have had issues or cylinder wear before it got all wet.

3) you may have pitting that needs an overbore anyways. Old rule for ridgewear was if you could catch it with your fingernail you went overbore.

4) your bearings and crank may have rust...

If anything, and you're now thinking about ripping it apart to hone and rering... pull the engine. Tear it down. Then make an informed decision off visual confirmation rather than pure guesswork.