Lol I didn't think it was unreasonable
Popcorn!
Get ya popcorn here! Here we go again...
Water in cylinders, now what?
- Thread starter LT1B-Body
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Well, it's a topic that comes up a lot from newer members, but, has been covered many many times, some in pretty good depth. (Do some searches)
Many a project gets abandoned as costs grow and people realize to do an ls swap right, it isn't as cheap as they think.
A decent oil pan alone is about $250-300 depending on your choice.
A wrecked truck that gives you more scrounging saves money over buying a craigslist engine only.
But there's a lot more that goes into the switch, from fuel tank/pump/lines to cooling system and motor mounts that are often overlooked before anyone even gets into making all the electronics work, accessories work, so on so forth. I mean, unless you get a very early engine that's cable driven you either need to swap throttle bodies or get a drive by wire setup.
And I know that just from seeing/reading so much when the threads pop up thinking of doing a swapp, I'm no LS motor fan personally. (Although we did chop up a suburban for non-drivetrain parts and sold the ls motor from it)
Well, I talked to the owner and I think I'm just going to build a 350 for him. The ls route seems more expensive and complicated than I feel like doing.
The plans are a vortec 350 with the f-body LT1 cam I have, and the Q-jet. I think it'll make a fun driver!
I think I'll post a new thread when I get the engine built.
Until then, thanks for the help and the laughs!
The plans are a vortec 350 with the f-body LT1 cam I have, and the Q-jet. I think it'll make a fun driver!
I think I'll post a new thread when I get the engine built.
Until then, thanks for the help and the laughs!
Include the engine build in the thread. I think you made a good choice. You'll likely get the car on the road faster this way.
Some are drilled for the fuel pump rod from the factory, some aren't.
Easy enough to remedy if not.
Easy enough to remedy if not.
Your LT1 cam may not have the provision to drive the fuel pump push rod for the actuator arm.
If not you need to choose between a cam that has the provision, or, using what you have and adding an external fuel pump plus a regulator for FP before the carb.
The blocks will be cast with the boss for it. Sometimes they just put a block off plate. Other times it isn't machined from the factory and needs to be done which is a relatively quick and simple process.
In either case save your cylindrical pump push rod because the other engine wouldn't come with it. I'd suggest starting cleaning it of rust in case it also wound up water logged.
It all comes back to "it depends"...
Example:
if you use mechanical pump, if you're running a roller cam motor it gets trickier because the factory actually specified a different pump push rod. GM 3704817 is the recommended pump push rod for a zz4 crate motor, which would be the roller cam type.
If you're doing a flat tappet setup for whatever reason, such as you decide on a 1996-down truck motor which would likely not have roller cam, but might be machined for it, then you existing pump push rod should be OK.
This is the world of mix and match. Really it comes down to two steps: decide what you'd like to find, then finalize your parts list based on what you actually decide to buy.
So that should be all you need, but, until you actually got the donor motor to be used things may be fluid, and you may change your list of installation let's make it work parts... especially if you decide to go fuel injected instead or adapt a tbi unit
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