Weather striping and wind noise

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tkruger

Master Mechanic
May 6, 2015
358
310
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NY
1987 Monte Carlo LS, hard top. A few years back I replaced the weather striping in my car. This lead to stopping water from coming in. It did however create wind noise above 30 MPH. It seems to be coming in the rear of the windows. I have tried tilting the glass in slightly and all kinds of adjustments but with no luck. Both sides have the same issue. I even bought a guide on how to stop the wind noise. Nothing seems to work. Any ideas?
 

ck80

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Supporting Member
Feb 18, 2014
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Could also be an issue where the replacement molding is slightly different in shape than the original and now creates wind noise. Replacement aftermarket weatherstripping never seems to fit and lie exactly as the original did unfortunately.
 
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tkruger

Master Mechanic
May 6, 2015
358
310
63
NY
I doubt it is the door hinges. I had the pins and bushings done about 4 years ago. If I had not had the pins and bushings replaced then I would think that might be it too.
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,649
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The aftermarket weather-stripping just sucks honestly.

My 81 Cutlass with semi dry-rotted factory seals seals great. No wind noise, no leaks. I am NOT a body guy and was able to get the window to seal pretty darn well with minimal effort. Doors close easy and windows roll up no problem.

My 86 GP was missing window seals when I bought it and I put new ones in. I am unable to get them to get them to seal where I don't get wind noise, doesn't leak in rain, or rolls up when the door is closed. I have spent hours trying to get it to seal and can't. Have to slam the door to close and the window won't roll up all the way unless I open the door.

The stock seals are coated in a smooth almost plastic covering that allows the window to slide easily, aftermarket seals are just smooth rubber and stick.

Stock seals are soft foam, aftermarket are harder rubber.

The aftermarket seals on the top roof rail are C shaped where factory are more stair stepped and I can't pull the window height limits up enough to sit in the channel without the window hitting the bottom of the channel. I have to pull the window down like 3/16" from the channel for it to clear the seal when I close the door.

The B pillar portion is too stiff and it forces the window out, and the A pillar portion isn't fluffy enough to seal on the window.

NOS GM seals or a good set from a salvage yard are really the only good option.
 
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DROLDS84

Master Mechanic
Feb 15, 2015
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788
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Northern Indiana
Sounds like you need to buy anti-rattle kits...you need 2 and should check your seals compared to another gbody. Mine on my Hurst are pretty lame.
 
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