What did you buy for your G body today? [2019]

[81cutlass]

I ran to the salvage yard to find some wagon and 2+2 parts. I didn't find anything I needed. The 2+2 needed some non broken inner fender liner plastic trim that goes between the fender and the front frame horns that bolts to the inner fender. There was only a few 81-87 GP's and they were all broken.

Also wanted a rust free rear wagon rear bumper but all the bumpers were equal or worse than mine. Wanted a nicer B pillar trim for the drivers side since the wagons is all broken but all of them were deteriorating from the sun.

I did grab some parts for other forum members and a buddy of mine. Few photos-

Want some manuals?

How about some intake manifolds?

Some exhaust manifolds?

Some aero centuries?

Jake, Jake, Jake of the salvage yard watch out for those vines!

Harvested a salon trunk

Pair of R block mopar B body manifolds for my friends 71 satellite "Roadbummer"

Steering wheels. Pair of monte SS style maroon steering wheels, actually came off a Chev Celebrity Eurosport. One is for a member, other one I saw and pulled it for giggles. Also pulled a Olds sport wheel off a Cierra. It needs to be recovered but olds sport wheels are rare enough and my Cutlass wheel is starting to fall apart so I am going to try to recover this one.

I did get some passenger power seat trim off a Cimmaron, rear window hinges for a wagon for a forum member, and a new rear seat latch for my wagon since the handle is broken. I also snagged a set of aluminum wagon rear quarter window trim.

On the drive home I snagged a brand new Sanden 508 AC comp for the 2+2 for $75 off FB marketplace. Actually came off a 302 ford vintage air kit a guy put together for a bronco. He put the heat box in but never the AC and sold the bronco so it came with a 302 bracket and brand new compressor. Should be a good starter kit for the 2+2.

 

[MrSony]

Ordered a hughes converter, atp flexplate, and arp flexplate and header bolts last week. Got em today.

 

[pontiac guy]

I bought the all the bearings to put the gear in the car. I am only a bunch of work away from having the 3.23 auburn in the car!

 

[Bullett801]

I tried to buy some boxed upper and lower rear control arms from Gbody parts.com They were the HR Parts N' Stuff brand. After I paid them, and the money cleared, I got a confirmation email, and a tracking number stating they would be at my door in a cpl days. the nest day, got an email saying the shipping had been canceled, and the Mfg. would be shipping the parts to me. So after waiting for almost 2 weeks and hearing nothing, I emailed Gbody's customer service and was told that the Mfg. is running behind on the production of these because of "race season" and it would be at least 2-6 weeks before I received them. I told them that was unacceptable, and to please come up with a resolution for the problem. They said they could substitute the the order with UMI or Metco parts. I said that UMI would be acceptable as long as they were the boxed set of arms with poly bushings and I wouldn't be charged for the difference in price because of their negligence in communication. I got a return email from customer service stating the order will be shipped and with UMI identical parts. Then some jack off emailed me and told me they would not satisfy my order with "better quality" parts that are 3X more expensive because of the manufactures lack of production. I unloaded on this *ss and pretty much told him he needs to go work as a garbage man cause he has no customer service skills, or math skills because the UMI set wasn't 3X the cost. And also questioned his stating that the HR parts are not a quality part? Does the manufacturer know you are saying this about their product? They do now, He said my money will be refunded and that was the end of it our conversation. Oh no it is not! I kept writing them asking for a manager's email or number or a person with some kind of authority to whom I could express my dissatisfaction to about this. Nothing. Then I received an email from another branch of their "customer service" dept. saying the reason I thought the cost was not 3X as much for the UMI parts is because "I" did not order both sides of the HR control arms. Upon looking at my email receipt, and order history on THEIR website, I clearly ordered both sides. When I checked out my total was $204.00. That included the shipping, the poly bushings, and both upper and lower boxed control arms for the right and left sides. Here is a snapshot of my receipt.
Currently I am still waiting for the money to return to my account, and I am still email them everyday for a managers contact information and heckling them. I am sure lots of guys have had great success and transactions with this company on this forum, hell I see we even promote them! But just be aware that if there is an issue with your order, this company WILL NOT stand behind their word,try to contact you with any shipping delay or issues, or even try to make it right by the customer let alone admit that they are liars and they were in the wrong or they made a mistake. I will pay triple the amount for the same parts and order it from anywhere but this mickey mouse monkey ****in a football operation and I urge you not to order from them.

Sorry about the language btw and sorry if I offended anyone who uses or likes this parts house, but they are just an outlet, go to the real Mfg. who supplies the parts to them. These *ssh*les are a joke in my professional opinion.

 

[TURNA]

I tried to buy some boxed upper and lower rear control arms from Gbody parts.com They were the HR Parts N' Stuff brand. After I paid them, and the money cleared, I got a confirmation email, and a tracking number stating they would be at my door in a cpl days. the nest day, got an email saying the shipping had been canceled, and the Mfg. would be shipping the parts to me. So after waiting for almost 2 weeks and hearing nothing, I emailed Gbody's customer service and was told that the Mfg. is running behind on the production of these because of "race season" and it would be at least 2-6 weeks before I received them. I told them that was unacceptable, and to please come up with a resolution for the problem. They said they could substitute the the order with UMI or Metco parts. I said that UMI would be acceptable as long as they were the boxed set of arms with poly bushings and I wouldn't be charged for the difference in price because of their negligence in communication. I got a return email from customer service stating the order will be shipped and with UMI identical parts. Then some jack off emailed me and told me they would not satisfy my order with "better quality" parts that are 3X more expensive because of the manufactures lack of production. I unloaded on this *ss and pretty much told him he needs to go work as a garbage man cause he has no customer service skills, or math skills because the UMI set wasn't 3X the cost. And also questioned his stating that the HR parts are not a quality part? Does the manufacturer know you are saying this about their product? They do now, He said my money will be refunded and that was the end of it our conversation. Oh no it is not! I kept writing them asking for a manager's email or number or a person with some kind of authority to whom I could express my dissatisfaction to about this. Nothing. Then I received an email from another branch of their "customer service" dept. saying the reason I thought the cost was not 3X as much for the UMI parts is because "I" did not order both sides of the HR control arms. Upon looking at my email receipt, and order history on THEIR website, I clearly ordered both sides. When I checked out my total was $204.00. That included the shipping, the poly bushings, and both upper and lower boxed control arms for the right and left sides. Here is a snapshot of my receipt.
Currently I am still waiting for the money to return to my account, and I am still email them everyday for a managers contact information and heckling them. I am sure lots of guys have had great success and transactions with this company on this forum, hell I see we even promote them! But just be aware that if there is an issue with your order, this company WILL NOT stand behind their word,try to contact you with any shipping delay or issues, or even try to make it right by the customer let alone admit that they are liars and they were in the wrong or they made a mistake. I will pay triple the amount for the same parts and order it from anywhere but this mickey mouse monkey ****in a football operation and I urge you not to order from them.

Sorry about the language btw and sorry if I offended anyone who uses or likes this parts house, but they are just an outlet, go to the real Mfg. who supplies the parts to them. These *ssh*les are a joke in my professional opinion.

GBodyParts suxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx!!!

They always have!!!!!

Unless you are dealing with them in person avoid them like the Corona virus!!!!!!!!

You should have chose the METCO's far superior product.

 

[69hurstolds]

Although I have an NOS combination brake valve for the 85 442, I pulled it out of the box and realized it is NOT exactly the same as original. While it is cast iron, it's not a Kelsey Hayes, which was the original valve on most of the G-bodies. How did I miss that?

Cast iron valves are tough to find, and are not the norm lately as the brass valves don't have the internal rust issues the cast iron ones have if moisture gets into the system. That's the reason they went with the brass ones. But it's a BENDIX style with the Delco circle on it.

So I figured I would like to try and find a mid-80s Kelsey Hayes version if possible and in good shape. It seems there were many slightly different versions of these, so I wanted to keep it in the 82-88 G-body realm if possible. Many were coded "HJ" on the build sheets, so this is what I was after.

Recalling oldsofb had done a complete frame strip-down a while back, I got to wondering if he still happened to have that old valve laying around, perhaps. To my surprise, he certainly did!

After a little begging, 🙂 I received a Kelsey Hayes OEM brake proportioning valve from him. He was going to be tossing it out, so I say, WTH, it's worth a shot.

He recommended maybe tossing in new seals, and I agree. I plan on restoring it to looking and working like new if I can, and with a new reproduction "HJ" barcode tag on it as well. I figure if I can restore it, when I get down to my own 442 rebuild, I'll have one ready to go and I can just drop it in with the new brake lines. Boom.

The issue is after I got the valve, there's not much information on how to put new O-rings or what size. I do know there are certain types of O-rings you have to use for brake fluid, like EPDM. But luckily, I found some little "seal kits" on the web for this sucker. And some rebuilding tips here:

1979 Kelsey-Hayes Cast Iron Combination Valve Autopsy | Muscle Car Research LLC

www.musclecarresearch.com

Anyway, that's my latest part that I got for my G-body. Never even attempted to rebuild one of these before, so it'll be new territory. Good thing is, if I screw it up, I still got the original valve plus the NOS cast iron Bendix if I really need it.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

Well rock auto/fed ex still makin sh*t happen. On time too. I got the rear crossmember that goes under the back seat and driver side front seat mount. Getting close to having all the metal work done.

 

[Flyers9928]

Scored a new Eaton posi with the all the bearing, seals, and shims and the axle bearings for only $100. I have been hitting the lottery with parts lately.

 

[Longroof79]

Although I have an NOS combination brake valve for the 85 442, I pulled it out of the box and realized it is NOT exactly the same as original. While it is cast iron, it's not a Kelsey Hayes, which was the original valve on most of the G-bodies. How did I miss that?

Cast iron valves are tough to find, and are not the norm lately as the brass valves don't have the internal rust issues the cast iron ones have if moisture gets into the system. That's the reason they went with the brass ones. But it's a BENDIX style with the Delco circle on it.

View attachment 139018

So I figured I would like to try and find a mid-80s Kelsey Hayes version if possible and in good shape. It seems there were many slightly different versions of these, so I wanted to keep it in the 82-88 G-body realm if possible. Many were coded "HJ" on the build sheets, so this is what I was after.

Recalling oldsofb had done a complete frame strip-down a while back, I got to wondering if he still happened to have that old valve laying around, perhaps. To my surprise, he certainly did!

After a little begging, 🙂 I received a Kelsey Hayes OEM brake proportioning valve from him. He was going to be tossing it out, so I say, WTH, it's worth a shot.

View attachment 139017

He recommended maybe tossing in new seals, and I agree. I plan on restoring it to looking and working like new if I can, and with a new reproduction "HJ" barcode tag on it as well. I figure if I can restore it, when I get down to my own 442 rebuild, I'll have one ready to go and I can just drop it in with the new brake lines. Boom.

The issue is after I got the valve, there's not much information on how to put new O-rings or what size. I do know there are certain types of O-rings you have to use for brake fluid, like EPDM. But luckily, I found some little "seal kits" on the web for this sucker. And some rebuilding tips here:

1979 Kelsey-Hayes Cast Iron Combination Valve Autopsy | Muscle Car Research LLC

www.musclecarresearch.com

Anyway, that's my latest part that I got for my G-body. Never even attempted to rebuild one of these before, so it'll be new territory. Good thing is, if I screw it up, I still got the original valve plus the NOS cast iron Bendix if I really need it.

Are these valves rebuildable? I always thought they weren't. Can you still acquire the internal seals, etc. for them?

 

[Local Hero]

Today I picked up an AC Declo fuel pump and fuel filter. I've been noticing that sometimes it will fall on it's face under load like going up a steep grade for a period of time, like it runs out of gas, but never stalls, and always recovers. But I'm getting more and more gun shy about pulling out into traffic.

Gonna swap it out this weekend.

When I was in the store looking for a filter for my Q-Jet carb, I couldn't find them because they moved the display to a different part of the store. I had to ask where they were and the guy looked at my like I had three heads.