What did you buy for your G body today? [2021]

[69hurstolds]

Replaced the left rear axle seal (again) This is the 2nd one. Axle looks nice and polished no groves, seal was flush with the housing, not overfilled and clear vent. I have no idea why this is happening!.

Check for slightly bent axle? I'm assuming correct p/n? Ensure you didn't nick it with the axle splines on the way in?

Seal for 82-88 monte carlo is GM p/n 554631 or 3998519 or Delco 291-309, (or aftermarket equivalent like Timken 8660S) as they are interchangeable.

 

[abbey castro]

Nothing bent, done this many times before on both sides. No nicks no burrs no nothing. Will fill it today and see what happens!. Seal was a nice tight fit on the bench. It is the same seal I've used many times before. Time tells all!

 

[69hurstolds]

Nothing bent, done this many times before on both sides. No nicks no burrs no nothing. Will fill it today and see what happens!. Seal was a nice tight fit on the bench. It is the same seal I've used many times before. Time tells all!

This concerns me. Something doesn't seem right. Why would you need to be doing it many times?

Evidence shows if it's not the seals, there's only so many other things that can cause this issue.

 

[5spdCab]

Ordered a 3 up quantity of the fuse/relay panels that fleming442 turned us on to. I plan on using one for the window/door locks on the Caballero, and keeping two for later use on other projects.

 

[abbey castro]

I normally replace the seals if I pull the axles. Posi installation (1st time) , rear disk conversion (2 times) since I had everything out, posi swap out for a different type (brand).

 

[CopperNick]

Abby. suggest you put a mike or a pair of digital calipers on your axle where the bearing and seal ride and take some measurements at multiple locations around the circumference. Then compare them to what a new axle would measure. The bearing and seal surfaces may feel smooth and look round and concentric but by taking those measurements you'll know for sure whether or not the axle is not at fault.

And, wondering, aloud here, when you did any of those seal swaps, did you do the bearings as well or leave the existing bearings in place? Not so likely but possible that the shell for the bearing has been damaged or gotten rusty and allowing your oil to ooze on by. (JMTA)



Nick

 

[abbey castro]

Thanks Nick for the measuring idea. I've never changed the bearings, they are the original ones. Car has 85 k on it. Today I completed the leaking seal, took it for a long ride. Placed a piece of card board on the wheel to easily see if it leaks by tomorrow morning. It's been about 6 hrs since I took it for a ride so far its dry. I was extra careful in putting the axle in and trying to balance it so that it went straight into the diff gear. Maybe this time. If not I'll pull it again and replace the bearings.

 

[CopperNick]

One other thought just commended itself to me. Most seal vendors suggest that when their product is installed, the lips of the seal surface get wiped or lubed with whatever the seal is meant to be keeping in place. Doing this is intended as preventive medicine against the possibility of the inbound axle or shaft or splining or sleeve or ? coming into contact with the dry sealing surface of the new lip and tearing or nicking it. It also extends the life of the seal by reducing how much lip material gets "sanded" away by the shaft or ?? during the first few initial turns of the metal against the rubber or neoprene.

it also occurs to me that sourcing and using a double lip seal might offer greater protection against lubricant by-pass. You would have to talk to CR or NDH or whoever builds the seals you use to see if they make a double lip variant of the OEM part number. What you may encounter is something that I call "mislabeling". In this case, what is being described as a seal is actually more accurately termed a dust shield. The shields have the rubber lip but it is fairly light and not necessarily spring backed as a means of achieving greater surface tension around the shaft diameter. True single lip seals tend to possess that re-enforcing spring that appears in view if you gently pull the lip back. Double lip seals are just that, an inner and outer lip placed in sequence inside the shell. Twice the wipe, twice the dry.



Nick

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

I got a 25' roll of 5/16 and 3/8 (around 40$ a piece on amazon)nylon fuel line, 25' roll of ags 1/4" nicopp brake line w/ fittings. Rock auto had the CNC425K brake line kit for half of what everyone else wanted(27$). I also grabbed a 6' stick of 3/16 nicopp(20$ locally). Then spent a few hrs in picapart getting stainless quick connects(free). Ill have to go back to get a few more straight quick connects. My son and I are working on putting the 8.8 in and plumbing the lines today if the cold doesn't run us outa the garage.

Im just short the fuel filter and disc/disc proportioning valve I've been looking for the 80s eldorado valve but can't seem to find it online or in parts store. I'm guessing ill have to buy one of the aftermarket valves. I've come across conflicting info about modifiying the stock valve. If anyone has any first hand info about the mod process I'd appreciate it. I ordered this fuel filter Friday. It should be here tomorrow.

Speedway High-Pressure EFI Inline Fuel Filter, 120 GPH at 60 PSI

The modern fuel injected engine requires a much finer fuel filter to protect the injectors. This is made of steel. This is a 10 micron fuel filter and is rated up to 60PSI, flows up to 120 gph and is a necessity for any EFI conversion. It includes an AN 6 inlet and outlet. Mounting bracket included.

www.speedwaymotors.com

 

[abbey castro]

Yup, rubber seal should be installed with a swipe of lube it will see. That's so it won't be running dry on initial startup use. Checked my rear axle seal this morning and there is no evidence of a leak; so far so good!