IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER REPLACEMENT: This is a fairly easy repair, but you will need to borrow a steering wheel puller from your local parts store.
Take the screws out of the back of the wheel, exposing the nut and washer on the shaft end. Remove them. Use the puller to pull the wheel off (thread into holes in the wheel, and stem pushes down on shaft end.)
Pull the plastic cover off, but be careful - fragile after 30 years.
Lock 'star' wheel - have to push down and use a third hand and a small sharp screwdriver or pick to dig the circlip out of the groove in the shaft. Don't lose it - they like to sail to dark corners. Make take a couple tries. Be careful of the horn button pin/brush. There is a spring-loaded pin to make contact with the wheel.
May need to remove the turn signal arm/cancel cam. Couple screws. (Don't drop them into the column - been there, done that...)
In your model year, there is a screw that intersects the ignition cylinder at about 90 degrees. After removing, the cylinder should slide right out.
While you're in there, if you have a tilt wheel and it's floppy, there are four Torx screws (three are accessible here) - this tool is often available at the parts store for sale or at Harbor Freight. Gently tighten them to remove the slop. I can't recall for sure, but if you can see the upper shaft bearing, try to get a little while lithium grease (carefully) down into it to avoid later squeaking when it dries out.
Get it all back together by reversing the above sequence.
Be proud you did it yourself.
