What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]

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The Bonnewagon started looking shabby and I just realized it's been almost 10 years since I painted it. The boat paint brush-job was chalky and rust spots were beginning. Not that bad considering it is outdoors all year. So I cleaned up the rusty spots and the chipped paint and sanded it all. The Interlux Steel Grey Polyurethane had faded to grey primer looking so this time I mixed in some Rustoleum black to darken it. It is more charcoal grey now. The weather is kind of hot and dry so it dried too fast and did not flow out very well. But this first coat will protect the metal for now. I like the darker color too. When I get a cool dry day I will give it a final coat.
I didn't know there was another experienced brush and roll painter on here.
 
Well, for a car that is left outside all year in NYC polluted atmosphere I can't see spending big bucks on a flashy paint job. Plus, here in Shitty City, anything nice gets stolen or ruined. The prior owner gave it a $99 Earl Shieb paint job that was disintegrating so the body was ruined already. So I just do all the bodywork and carefully brush paint it so there are no drips or runs. Just being one color with no rot spots goes a long way to looking good. And if you are thinking of stealing it- once you get close you realize that is pointless. :mrgreen:
 
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Hunted down a reciever hitch for the wagon for $50 off marketplace.
 

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Got the Malibu from the shop today. They Tightened up the Belts (Where i did not have them tight enough) which took care of the Steering binding I was having. But. . They could not fix the low beam issue, matter of fact they couldn't figure it out, Shook wires, tested voltages Which are good, switched between old and new Dimmer Switch and still nothing, as the mechanic at Doyle's put it, They need them headlights to go out to find the problem. Other than checking the wires personally for burns, Rechecking the Connection to the Light Switch, Old Dimmer Switch is still good, I can't figure out the problem, according to Doyle's these lights should kick on. . .
 
Well, my dad came out to give me a hand with the pinion seal- and by give me a hand, I mean he did 90% of the work. :doh:
Gotta just start diving into things like that some day, I really need that experience.

We did run into some issues however, I think this diff was messed with at some point and the pinion preload wasn’t set back up correctly. Checked breakaway torque with an inch pound torque wrench and got less than 2 inch pounds before the diff turned! Ford’s manual states 8-14 inch pounds, so we torqued it back up until it read 7-8 inch pounds and I pray to god that decision didn’t fudge something right up.
 
Today, Nothing. Yesterday, revisited the bracket that I made for my clutch return spring and made cuts in the base to create ears that I could tweak using various devices to put a curve into the base so that it fits the header pipe better. With the shape and curve corrected, I plan to to add tacks to the open edges to finish them off and make the whole base monolithic; (all one piece).
 
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Cleaned up some wiring under the dash. Had to drop the column to get to the plugs on top as it’s easier to work with them when they’re not right up against the column.
Before:
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After:
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Honestly surprised this didn’t cause big problems. Exposed ignition wiring as well as main power wire with nothing but electrical tape covering. Very well could have loosened and shorted out. All better now! I also cleaned up the grounds that tie into the left side of the dash where it meets the body. Hopefully that’ll fix my power locks issue.
 
yesterday I wanted to check a few settings in the Fast system. I had the handheld suctioncupped to the front windshield so I can tap the appropriate buttons, the handheld fits a gamin holder. The suction cup didn't hold so the handheld dropped about a foot til the wire stopped the fall. The handheld now only shows error, not connected to the ECU. I was pissed so I left it and there was no help online so I'm going to see if I can take the handheld apart to see if the data cable has pulled off it's contact. I hope I can fix it today cause a new handheld is $400 Can and I'll be even more pissed at myself...... 😡
 
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Okay, so I didn’t actually do all this today, but this is the most recent work I’ve done to Elsie. Since I had some time available and the funds to do it, I installed the basic UMI parts (springs, sway bars, front and rear chassis braces) along with polyurethane isolators to improve Elsie’s handling. While I was at it I also installed a set of Air-Lift bags for when I want to pull a small luggage trailer.

I learned a few new lessons while doing this job. As I don’t have a big compressor to run air tools, I had to compress the springs manually with my biggest 1/2” ratchet. That experience taught me that when I am ready and able to get the UMI control arms and other steering parts later, it will be worth the long drive to Philipsburg and the extra expense to have them do the installation.

The other thing I learned was to never, ever drop a compressed 600 lb/in coil spring on a concrete floor. I had it positioned in the lower A-arm, and then as I reached for a tool or a bolt, the A-arm shifted and the spring fell to the concrete under the car. The compressor unwound with awesome fury, scraping off a good bit of the spring’s heavy-duty coating and making a lot of little chips in the carport.

The third lesson I learned is that UMI’s shock tower brace will not fit with the factory muffler brackets in place. I had not planned to do any exhaust work on the car yet, that’s the next big job, but I had to modify the existing system in order to install the brace. I wound up cutting off the factory pipe in front of the rear axle and using a couple 45 degree elbows to route it out the driver’s side. There’s currently no muffler as I couldn’t see buying one just to throw it away in a few weeks.

When I cut the tail pipe from the original muffler, I found what I believe are chunks of the original catalytic converter.

Here are some photos:

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