What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]

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Cleaned more undercoating off today, went ahead and treated with some straight phosphoric acid this time around, Ospho doesn’t seem to have the bite to it I’d like.
There’s still some more around what I’ve got left of the spare tire well, but what I can get to is thicker than a large Chicago deep dish pizza with extra cheese. I’ll leave that go.


On a side note, anyone ever been crazy enough to run 5 inch diameter coil springs in the rear? I’m running into an issue where the inside diameter of the spring is just small enough to come into contact with the stamping for the stock type pigtail spring. I was thinking I could either cut the little nub off of the spring pocket in the back and tack a pair of 5 inch spring perches in place, otherwise I’ll have to have the perches bored out to fit over that nub. Any suggestions?
 
Cleaned more undercoating off today, went ahead and treated with some straight phosphoric acid this time around, Ospho doesn’t seem to have the bite to it I’d like.
There’s still some more around what I’ve got left of the spare tire well, but what I can get to is thicker than a large Chicago deep dish pizza with extra cheese. I’ll leave that go.


On a side note, anyone ever been crazy enough to run 5 inch diameter coil springs in the rear? I’m running into an issue where the inside diameter of the spring is just small enough to come into contact with the stamping for the stock type pigtail spring. I was thinking I could either cut the little nub off of the spring pocket in the back and tack a pair of 5 inch spring perches in place, otherwise I’ll have to have the perches bored out to fit over that nub. Any suggestions?

the stock rear springs are 5.5" double pigtails.
 
the stock rear springs are 5.5" double pigtails.

I neglected to mention I’m swapping out to boxed style springs that are typically used in circle track application (yes I know it’s stupid).
BFE479BB-38EB-49AE-8A07-03604FEE8BC4.jpeg

They’re the ones on the left.
The way the spring pocket in the rear is formed is just large enough to hit the springs on the inside diameter in such a way that they sort of wobble if I hold them in by hand, kind of like the flat on the spring is only contacting half of the pad, they still sit flat on the pocket if I hold them as close to center as possible but if I shift them at all they sort of slide off(?), I’ll get some pictures tomorrow of what I’m dealing with.
 
I hope you change your oil every 1000 miles due to your engine running too cool to burn contaminates like water. You can damage your engine running it cool due to lack of lubrication.

I wouldn't go that far. I put a 180 stat in my 98 GMC K1500 over 100,000 miles ago. I run 180 stats in both trucks. Just because the oil doesn't hit the boiling point of water doesn't mean it can't still evaporate. I'll concede I've never had a used oil analysis, but the motor has over 270,000 miles on it with no signs of giving up soon. The chart I saw in an old school engine book showed noticeably increased wear at 160, and a negligible difference at 180. Those were water temps, not oil temps, so there were probably some ASSumptions in there too. What I'm after in the trucks is 1: a little knock threshold since I run more aggressive timing and 2: a head start for the cooling system when I hit a big hill fully loaded. I should note, to date, cooling while towing has been a total non-issue for either truck (other is a 97 K3500, both trucks have Whipples).
 
I wouldn't go that far. I put a 180 stat in my 98 GMC K1500 over 100,000 miles ago. I run 180 stats in both trucks. Just because the oil doesn't hit the boiling point of water doesn't mean it can't still evaporate. I'll concede I've never had a used oil analysis, but the motor has over 270,000 miles on it with no signs of giving up soon. The chart I saw in an old school engine book showed noticeably increased wear at 160, and a negligible difference at 180. Those were water temps, not oil temps, so there were probably some ASSumptions in there too. What I'm after in the trucks is 1: a little knock threshold since I run more aggressive timing and 2: a head start for the cooling system when I hit a big hill fully loaded. I should note, to date, cooling while towing has been a total non-issue for either truck (other is a 97 K3500, both trucks have Whipples).

another aspect of running too cool is you lose fuel mileage.....why not run an engine 190° to 210° so the engine oil and transmission fluid are working at proper temperatures
 
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I neglected to mention I’m swapping out to boxed style springs that are typically used in circle track application (yes I know it’s stupid).
View attachment 149298
They’re the ones on the left.
The way the spring pocket in the rear is formed is just large enough to hit the springs on the inside diameter in such a way that they sort of wobble if I hold them in by hand, kind of like the flat on the spring is only contacting half of the pad, they still sit flat on the pocket if I hold them as close to center as possible but if I shift them at all they sort of slide off(?), I’ll get some pictures tomorrow of what I’m dealing with.

just cut off the g body perches and weld on some 5" perches....what is the spring rate of those springs? Oh and it isn't stupid, you have lots of springs with different lengths and different spring rates to choose from, Afco has a great selection of springs
 
another aspect of running too cool is you lose fuel mileage.....why not run an engine 190° to 210° so the engine oil and transmission fluid are working at proper temperatures

Well the trans runs 150-180. In theory you gain efficiency, but I never saw a change in mpg going to a 180 stat. Could be a heavy *ss truck thing. I feel a SOTP difference in pull as well. Haven't bothered with cooler stats on the Z06 or Envoy 5.3 though. I've suspected I wouldn't realize that SOTP gain, and I wonder if it isn't IAT related.
 
Well the trans runs 150-180. In theory you gain efficiency, but I never saw a change in mpg going to a 180 stat. Could be a heavy *ss truck thing. I feel a SOTP difference in pull as well. Haven't bothered with cooler stats on the Z06 or Envoy 5.3 though. I've suspected I wouldn't realize that SOTP gain, and I wonder if it isn't IAT related.


why do you think new cars run in the 220° to 230° range?, one reason is better fuel economy
 
why do you think new cars run in the 220° to 230° range?, one reason is better fuel economy

My guess is emissions is a big one. I'm not saying you're wrong, merely offering my observations. It's not night and day going from 195 to 180, but before with stock fan settings on the Z06 it was an absolute turd at 220 when autocrossing even though ambient was in the 30s. You have to consider the factory's objectives vs your own when choosing an operating temperature.
 
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