Hey man thanks, really appreciate you saying that! Your 78 cab looks like a solid ride, I'm sure you'll get it to look exactly like you want!
What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]
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Yep, little by little. It's tough to get major things done when it's still used as a driver.
So I bit and purchased a set of the e-bay/amazon cylinder heads god help me
They are set to arrive the 22
They are set to arrive the 22
I feel that, mine's my daily too, but with Corona closing everything in Delaware I figured I'd make use of all this newfound free time I have haha
Yesterday I dropped the gas tank so I can weld the frame rail on the drivers side. Bought all new rubber fuel lines for the top of the tank. I ordered a new sending unit. Gonna sand and wire brush the original tank and paint it as its in great condition.
I hate self inflicted things and doing things twice. I rotated my tires yesterday during my pit road bodywork exapade, only to have a nasty vibration at highway speed. So, I took it apart, threw some 80 grit in the sanding block, and sanded the hubs flat. Donovan will be happy to know that the dust chute prevented fitment of the beltsander within the rim. Then, I wire brushed the hubs, retorqued the wheels, and sent it. We'll see on the commute tomorrow as I traverse Planet COVID19.
Pics for proof (1 wheel, anyway)
Pics for proof (1 wheel, anyway)
I've been putting the miles on lately and reached this milestone.
i been looking for new door glass for the cutlass. havent been able to find any local. but yesterday i found a company online the has limited sets. got both door glass for 338.00 shipped. so i pulled the trigger and bought them.
Threw the second layer of anti-rust paint at the bottom of the shifter pocket. Found out that the catalyst for two part epoxy filler will self catalyst if left unused.
While SeaFoam has its uses and works well in many cases, don't see if as being anything but a panacea for the carb. If it has been sitting for as long as I infer from your posts then that carb likely needs a teardown and all the idle and transfer passages given a good cleaning, along with replacing the gaskets. You might also want to check out the floats. E85 is murder on the life of brass floats. There are now versions of the nitrophyll floats that will tolerate E85 and not sink or melt down from it.
As for the brakes, don't just bleed them, purge them. Crack open the circuits at each of the wheels and at the proportioning valve and use air under pressure to blow the lines out, then run a whole can of the CFC free brake cleaner into the lines and blow that through as well. Me, I would chase the cleaner with a dose of high test Isopropanol Alcohol, the water free version and blow that out with air too. The objective here is to expel all the crud and corruption that the old brake fluid has absorbed during its life and leave the lines internally clean and ready to deal with the new fluid. For myself I went stainless and made my own lines from bulk tube and store bought fittings. Pain in the butt to do but far more resistant to rust and corrosion. You can do the same thing with the proportioning valve and the master cylinder. Me, I have a new M/C sitting in the box and waiting to be installed. May still throw new calipers and slave cylinders at the wheels yet.
While SeaFoam has its uses and works well in many cases, don't see if as being anything but a panacea for the carb. If it has been sitting for as long as I infer from your posts then that carb likely needs a teardown and all the idle and transfer passages given a good cleaning, along with replacing the gaskets. You might also want to check out the floats. E85 is murder on the life of brass floats. There are now versions of the nitrophyll floats that will tolerate E85 and not sink or melt down from it.
As for the brakes, don't just bleed them, purge them. Crack open the circuits at each of the wheels and at the proportioning valve and use air under pressure to blow the lines out, then run a whole can of the CFC free brake cleaner into the lines and blow that through as well. Me, I would chase the cleaner with a dose of high test Isopropanol Alcohol, the water free version and blow that out with air too. The objective here is to expel all the crud and corruption that the old brake fluid has absorbed during its life and leave the lines internally clean and ready to deal with the new fluid. For myself I went stainless and made my own lines from bulk tube and store bought fittings. Pain in the butt to do but far more resistant to rust and corrosion. You can do the same thing with the proportioning valve and the master cylinder. Me, I have a new M/C sitting in the box and waiting to be installed. May still throw new calipers and slave cylinders at the wheels yet.
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