What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]

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Had to deal with one of the lingering reliability issues with my cooling system, today. When I bought a new radiator, it had a port for the heater core coolant return that is not used on this engine. I have been using rubber caps, as that was what came on it when I bought it, but after a few months they tend to crack and fail. This hasn't left me stranded yet, as I have spares in the glove box but there has to be a better way.

I originally bought a kit to split the return line between the block and radiator, but it turned out to have the wrong sized tee fitting.

I ended up getting a barb end fitting and put a pipe cap on it, then hooking that to the nipple on the radiator. A little bit convoluted for my taste, but since I am off work, I don't have access to their machine shop anymore so it will have to do.

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Had to deal with one of the lingering reliability issues with my cooling system, today. When I bought a new radiator, it had a port for the heater core coolant return that is not used on this engine. I have been using rubber caps, as that was what came on it when I bought it, but after a few months they tend to crack and fail. This hasn't left me stranded yet, as I have spares in the glove box but there has to be a better way.

I originally bought a kit to split the return line between the block and radiator, but it turned out to have the wrong sized tee fitting.

I ended up getting a barb end fitting and put a pipe cap on it, then hooking that to the nipple on the radiator. A little bit convoluted for my taste, but since I am off work, I don't have access to their machine shop anymore so it will have to do.

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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335822911&icep_item=254442838628



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0Q52P2/?tag=gbody-20







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Yesterday seems like 2 steps back and 1 forward in my driver side power window conversion. I decided to install the aftermarket lower panel that I purchased months ago. It is the one that has dual speaker openings. I first started fabricating a small bracket to mount a tweeter behind the upper panel. I ran another speaker wire for the tweeter, began to get ready to fasten the lower panel and realized that the speakers are 1/2 inch too large diameter, and about 3/4 inch too deep. So now it's decision time, do I want to find smaller speakers, or start cutting . I pondered that thought for quite a while, not getting much else done.
Then today, I started cutting on the door metal, I had to remove the power window regulator first so as not to damage it, make the cuts, reinstall the regulator, move and re-tie the wiring, then begin the lower panel install. Also installed the inner beltline strip on the old upper panel and got it mounted on the door prior to tightening down the lower panel. Started picking up the tools and cleaning up when the mosquitoes started biting. Still need to install the sill plate and kick panel, plus make the wiring connections under the dashboard.
Taking the day off work tomorrow to take the wife to her doctor appointment. I plan on getting a few hours connecting switches and wiring, then reopening the passenger side door for the speakers and lower panel. Will have to go through a lot of the same, and more, than I did today, so I do not foresee it being finished before next weekend.
 
I have seen guys weld then plate them and I have seen guys just butt weld them with a nice angle cut on bolt ends
maybe a piece that you plug weld on the new rail so it slips into the old rail, and plug weld a few spots on each, then weld all around?
 
maybe a piece that you plug weld on the new rail so it slips into the old rail, and plug weld a few spots on each, then weld all around?

This is essentially how the OEs supply service parts for late-model frame vehicles. Service part comes with sleeve inside that extends into original frame, helps hold it in correct alignment as well as provide a good backer for welding. Best done with a 220V welder, 110V machines typically really don't have enough oomph to penetrate fully in a single pass. And multiple passes....well, not first choice.

Pretty common repair on trucks. Did front section on a TBSS about a month ago
 
spent the afternoon (yesterday) separating my old bumper from it's reinforcements. prepped, primed, and painted them and installed them on my new bumper. Took some trimming and tweaking (car had a bent rear bumper when I got it 6 years ago, then that was the only thing really wrong with the car), but i got it in. Beats spending $200+ for a new one from GBP, tho I'm sure it would have taken less work. From the pictures, it appears to have the holes integrated into the support instead of being a 3 piece. Interesting.

ANYWAY: Looks good. Camera makes it look a tad off, but it's right. The impact strip has 3 stubs broken off on the driver's side so it kind of flops there. Dad cleaned it up anyway, he wanted to help.
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The bumper needs aligned for sure, but gotta have fillers to do that. Spoolfool fillers will be on the car by summer's end, providing I prep and paint my spare header panel, and get 2 new fenders.


Also bought a new variable speed benchtop grinder. Little pricey but it's got some nuts to it. Plus the light.
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oh
also put a new trunk seal on

did that too.
 
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