What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2021]

[5spdCab]

Relocation of oil cooler and air horns completed. I began installing the air dam, and noticed that the condenser was off of the rubber bushings, so I fixed that as well. To do the cooler/horn relocation, I removed the grill and found that three of the mount points were broken. I scraped dirt and grime off, and am trying some Permatex brand plastic weld epoxy for the repair. While the grill is off, I spray painted the oil cooler and condenser with a flat black (some say that reduces efficiency of cooler and condenser, but it will look better behind the grill).

I will reinstall the grill soon, and begin planning on making an appointment with the AC shop for a system flush, evacuation, and charge.

 

[mclellan83]

Hit a bunch of car shows all weekend

 

[CopperNick]

My last post on this topic included pictures of what it took to install the new poly-u bushings in the upper ears on my Monte's rear end. Here are just a couple of shots of what the old bushings looked like once I had evicted them from their premises and what it took to accomplish that exercise,

As you can see above, the rubber sleeves are pretty well gutted out, the inner sleeves have split open at their seams, and the outer shells are trashed. Global destruction on a local scale.

And these were the instruments of that carnage. From left to right, my trusy Proto Ball Pein hammer, a mid length tapered drift punch, also a Proto Tool, (Not plugging Proto here, just that these tools are approaching their 50th birthday whcih is more than I can say about some newer manufacturers), the large drill bit that I used to wallow out the initial pilot holes, the smaller bit that ended up getting pressed into service when the first one of that size snapped due to rubber grab. (That rubber fought back viciously against the drill and the bits) and my air drill. The air drill was the key here, An electric drill would not have had the guts to make it all the way through the rubber liners. As it was, I had to rock and roll the air drill in and out to give it some breathing room to get the rpms back up and keep it from stalling. Off to the left you can again see what technology hath wrought. The inner sleeves splitting open as they did came from them riding up the shank of the drift punch. They did not want to let go once drifted out either. Despite their reluctance, Grandpa's vice, which you can sort of see beneath the portable table that it has in its jaws, made it easy to persuade them to part company from the dirft.

So I am back to painting. Today was a sanding day as I elected to sand down everytihing that I had shot to see if I could come up with a smoother surface. Evidently the Rust Mort and the Rust Check had had minor chemical difference of opinion and instead of hardening to the touch, what I had was more like rubber and sanded down about as well. The plan is to sand some more and then lay down a coat of the Krylon directly to the metal surfaces. The rust mort has done its job to the point where it has bitten deep into the rust to eradicate it. I can shoot directly to that surface and move on.



Nick

 

[ck80]

Today was a good one!
Finally finished the carpet although I’m super happy with how it came out. I think it’s just the shifter and how I cut around it.
I paint the old sill plates. I couldn’t find my nice ones but these came out decent.
Put the seats in buttoned most of it up. Then took the kids for a rip around the neighborhood, and did some groceries.
Hot start problem seems to be gone as well!
View attachment 182721 View attachment 182722 View attachment 182724 View attachment 182725 View attachment 182726 View attachment 182727 View attachment 182728

There's something about seeing "antique" plates on a gbody that feels like a knife in the gut every time.

Where did the years go...

 

[80/MALIBU/COUPE]

got all my parts for the rear diff so its time to work
pulled out the diff gave it a decent bath with simple green scraper and pressure washer then began tear down.

\

dum brakes.. ive had them open before so i knew this was here but still funny
zip tie holding the adjuster arm
and broken spring on the spreader bar

missing the adjuster assem.

the rear diff the axle ends are diff no clue why .
the pass. axle had alot more play and would hit the center pin even causing it to mushroom out at the end .
you can see where it was making contact with the pin.

4" grinder with cut off wheel made quick work of it

center pin was toast to sat the least this is why it wouldnt just slide out

housing is full stripped of seals bearing and races and got a proper bath

next weekend is ls1 backing plate install then off for the new guts

moser 28 spline
moser 3" studs
moser diff alum. diff cover
torsen lsd
quick performance install kit 3:73 gears

i wouldnt mind trying to assemble my self but
it would cost more for me to buy the tools: dial gauge for lash and preload "wrench".
then have it set up buy well know local shop

 

[CopperNick]

Backing plate replacement? BWAA-Ha-Ha-Ha. Let's see, the two small bolts at the bottom might come out, or they might break. If your plates have been replaced in the past then you might have through bolts which could be either metric or fractional. The main event is the upper shoe pivot which is also the third bolt that holds the backing plate to the flange on the axle end. The nut is either a crimp or a stover, meaning it was deliberately deformed during manufacture so that when it is run down onto its threads, it will grab them and not require a lock washer or loctite. it is likely to also be metric. If you are not worried about saving any of it, stuff a rag into the axle end to keep the cuttings and dust from getting into the tube and have at 'er with a 4.5 mini-grinder and a razor blade. Just be careful not to cut into the flange and do wear a dust mask; rust and metal dust will play h*ll with your lungs.

When you get a peek at the new upper shoe pivot pin you will see that it has flats machined at 180 degrees to each other. Big combination wrench or size large crescent wrench. Use your first picture for reference, One flat usually lays at 12 oclock and the other at six. That gets you the space at the bottom that the wheel cylinder needs to seat into its pocket properly. (Not going to ask if you're having fun yet, this exercies is not fun, more like a major PITA.)

To your list of parts noted above, i would also add the axle bearings and seals unless they come as allied parts with the axles.

Also, since you have had the housing cleaned, just wondering here if you are going to paint it or have it powder coated? Epoxy and Poly-Urethane are both durable finishes that can go on post assembly. Powder is more $$$ but the finish is brutally durable. Only thing with it is that you have to chase all the threads prior to assembly or the bolts or studs will bind.

One last item. For myself I am at the point where new shocks will shortly be required. All shocks apparently come with the lower stud assembly, the stud itself, along with the cup washers, lock washers, and nuts, included. You haven't mentioned what shape your existing shock studs were in or how much wrestling with them you had to do to get the old shocks off. It's one of those, "While You're There" situations.



Nick

 

[DSPbuilt]

I’ve been driving it quite a bit. I love this car so much and honestly aside from light vibration above 70 from the wheels not being balanced, it really cruises so well. It’s real smooth. I may add some resonators to try and quite it down some but the kilmat and carpet made such a drastic difference on sound and heat . Before you could feel the heat radiating on my face now the floor is cool to the touch.

I should also probably get the wiper motor mounted it got a little sketchy this morning..

 

[Supercharged111]

I’ve been driving it quite a bit. I love this car so much and honestly aside from light vibration above 70 from the wheels not being balanced, it really cruises so well. It’s real smooth. I may add some resonators to try and quite it down some but the kilmat and carpet made such a drastic difference on sound and heat . Before you could feel the heat radiating on my face now the floor is cool to the touch.

I should also probably get the wiper motor mounted it got a little sketchy this morning..

View attachment 182944

Rainx windshield cleaner is all I use on my Camaro. It doesn't have wipers. The scant few times I've had to race it in the rain has been uneventful 3rd gear and above.

 

[5spdCab]

I hid my oil cooler and AC condenser.

Now seriously, all I did was to reinstall the grill panel. Sunday I spread some plastic epoxy on three broken screw tabs, then last night I spread a second coating on the worst broken one. Tonight I put it back on the car. Six little screws, took all of about 5 minutes.

 

[DSPbuilt]

Rainx windshield cleaner is all I use on my Camaro. It doesn't have wipers. The scant few times I've had to race it in the rain has been uneventful 3rd gear and above.

That is my plan for now. Ive always done it on all my cars. I need to find a good product to remove the baked in water spots then plan to do the rainx. I eventually need to get the wipers working for the safety inspection in NC. For now I'm keeping my cars registered under FL.