What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

[spongbob]

Working on door corner choose soldering ,that is sanding and tinning a small peice of galvanized tin over the small rust holes near corner ...I use Forney red (red ruby ?)tinning fluid .I bare and area to be patched make a matching patch from good thin tin 18 or 20 guage .The tinning process goes like this ...a coat of thr mentioned tin fluid is applied with a brush it is then heated till it drys , and then dabbed with clean water and a clean rag...you should see steam as you cool the hot metal off immediately after fluid is heated with a propain torch ....Okay then you repeat what you just did again fluid heat, clean rag moistened in clean water, After that you re apply the red tinning fluid then taking some good solder like oatey "50/50 ...you apply heat ' to the panel useing a half inch torch tip flame.Heat and solder are contacted to the metal simultaneously "rub' the solder while pushing on a length of solder wire.The solder should flow onto the metal if you do this right"... I prefer to dodge around a little leaving small drops stuck were the patch edge fits. .The patch you lay on a block of wood and tin prior to placement or soldering. Once' the 2 metal surfaces are tinned" try leaving a little extra solder on each half place the patch over the hole/s area take a screw driver and push the panel down apply heat with the propain torch to say a 5/8" area rite were the screwdriver is being pressed.the tin will melt then melt the solder under neath it might deflect a small bit towards the main body stop heating this takes about 7 seconds to achive... then take a wet wash cloth and dabb the heated area fast steam will come off the hot spot (you can get burned)..if the first spot is not stuck move around the patch doing the same thing...with screwdriver torch and wet rag .hints the screw driver will try to slip when ýou are pressing 2 if to much heat is applied to too much of the patch you may loose some of the solder by it falling out 3 some solder can be fed into the edge of a patch where its needed, 4 wear a paint respirator respirator wear googles .5 use expensive solder as many types just will not work. Clean any tinning fluid residue out oth the patch well or it disagrees with bondo okay it could be said to use jb weld to seal edge of patch then the filler process (bondo)...knock patches down a little with a hammer befor filler is applied if the patch falls loose you did it wrong.Remember tin the patch metal as well as the body

Patch

 

[SoFloG]

Time to go for a winter sleepView attachment 229997

Got a build thread for this?

 

[SoFloG]

Painted rally wheels black

 

[Tomicamino]

Got a build thread for this?

No, but I have posted pictures here from time to time

 

[64nailhead]

Cage and floor pan repairs are finally complete.

800hp street Regal is on its way. Onto installing the interior.

 

[Rktpwrd]

800hp street Regal

Regal??
Is this a new project Jim? I was only aware of your Monte and your son’s Cutlass.

 

[64nailhead]

Regal??
Is this a new project Jim? I was only aware of your Monte and your son’s Cutlass.

D,
The Cutlass is no more. I never updated the thread and it’s now closed. It was and still is my favorite G - 80 Cutlass Supreme. It met an untimely end - frame, body, and most everything bent beyond repair. The Regal is the replacement for the power train and electronics.

He wants to talk it to the strip occasionally, but more street drive as a daily. But he wanted a cage to not be limited to 11.50.
I tried to talk him into a 6 or 8 point, but he insisted on a 10 point to be 8.50 legal. And there’s a story with the cage. It ended with two cages and me buying a welder to put in the 2nd attempt. But it’s nearing completion. Or I should say completion in primer (he’s the painter - not me.)

The Motown needs rings and a hone, but I stumbled into a low mileage 6.0 that is much more street friendly. So we pulled the Motown LS in favor of a 6000 mile Gen 4 6.0 that will be more than 800whp capable with the S480. The Motown is awaiting a use that is worthy of a 1500hp capable short block.


And he’s moved to NC (11 hours away) a year ago, so I’m near finishing the mechanical end.

And it’s close to being done.
My car hasn’t been unloaded off the trailer since Drag Week and motor implosion. I’m gathering parts for a full on race/street drag and drive car. With some no prep capabilities too.

 

[Rktpwrd]

D,
The Cutlass is no more. I never updated the thread and it’s now closed. It was and still is my favorite G - 80 Cutlass Supreme. It met an untimely end - frame, body, and most everything bent beyond repair. The Regal is the replacement for the power train and electronics.

He wants to talk it to the strip occasionally, but more street drive as a daily. But he wanted a cage to not be limited to 11.50.
I tried to talk him into a 6 or 8 point, but he insisted on a 10 point to be 8.50 legal. And there’s a story with the cage. It ended with two cages and me buying a welder to put in the 2nd attempt. But it’s nearing completion. Or I should say completion in primer (he’s the painter - not me.)

The Motown needs rings and a hone, but I stumbled into a low mileage 6.0 that is much more street friendly. So we pulled the Motown LS in favor of a 6000 mile Gen 4 6.0 that will be more than 800whp capable with the S480. The Motown is awaiting a use that is worthy of a 1500hp capable short block.


And he’s moved to NC (11 hours away) a year ago, so I’m near finishing the mechanical end.

And it’s close to being done.
My car hasn’t been unloaded off the trailer since Drag Week and motor implosion. I’m gathering parts for a full on race/street drag and drive car. With some no prep capabilities too.

I’m sorry to hear of its untimely demise, hopefully it wasn’t anything catastrophic to the point where anyone got hurt. If you still have the car, I would be willing to potentially take some of the parts off your hands for you. Especially the 1980 Supreme specific things like grilles and headlight bezels.

 

[64nailhead]

I’m sorry to hear of its untimely demise, hopefully it wasn’t anything catastrophic to the point where anyone got hurt. If you still have the car, I would be willing to potentially take some of the parts off your hands for you. Especially the 1980 Supreme specific things like grilles and headlight bezels.

The car is gone. He did sell a fair amount of items from it. All I have left is trim pieces from the side panels. As badly as the car was damaged, most of the panels survived. The bulk of the damage was from the frame/right front wheel being pushed in. The floor pan, roof, and right rear quarter had heavy twists in them.

He sold both front fenders and doors, header, front bumper, inner fenders, hood. To look at the car from 20-30 feet away it didn't look very serious, but unfortunately it was truly over my head for repair. And he would've needed another frame, roof and right rear quarter......and lots of time.

FWIW, the header panel sold for $800 or $900 - the only thing he took off from it was the head light bulbs. He got a fair amount for the doors as well and we stripped everything out of them. I ut the power windows into the Regal doors (which was quite a process I'll add). All of the interior has been installed in the Regal, and since removed to put in the cage. So when I'm done, he will have a Regal with a custom Gran Prix dash and Cutlass interior haha.

If you are interested in any of the exterior trim, you can have it for the price of shipping. We have tried selling it a couple of times unsuccessfully and I'm at the point that I need to get rid of all of the excess parts. I mentioned before that I have a lot of parts here, but it's more than most would realize, and sometimes it's more than I realize haha. My wife has mentioned repeatedly that she wants to move south, but the thought of moving all of the parts and pieces that I have is too overwhelming presently.

We have enough engines, transmissions and rear ends to fill a 26' van body, let alone body parts. And let's not talk about wheels.

 

[mclellan83]

Saturday played with the Monte some more, showed my buddy the noise at low speed. We ended up taking off the kick down cable which shouldn't have affected it but seems to drive better without it. Then we spent some time digging for the tach signal so that I could get it back on the Dakotas, had 2 strikes on finding the brown wire haha. Then finished up with rewrapping the end of the one header that came apart while trying to get the plugs and wires on and messing with the head units some