What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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The Holley stuff they are big on running power for the ecm straight to the battery. Many people on the facebook pages have fixed their problems by doing that. Holley is really picky on its power source. I ran my car with an intermittent alt problem, any time my Voltage dropped under 11.8 it ran like crap. missing, bogging, crazy AFR. It would still start and run but terribly, as soon as voltage was 11.9 or higher it was perfect.
I've read about multiple people dealing w/this on the aftermarket installs. The power supply & charging system need to be 100% on point. There will only be issues w/a 'it will do' electrical system.
 
I did a rough trim on my 6.5" Glasstek Sunoco hood for the Monte, I had to cut almost 2" off the rear to keep it from hitting the windshield.
I still have to drill for the hood pins and then finish sand it which will give a bit more clearance at the windshield
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I love it. We have the 4” and really like them. The Glassteks are a quality piece. I kept mine off the windshield when up, but he s his about like yours lol.

What are you using for struts?

The Holley stuff they are big on running power for the ecm straight to the battery. Many people on the facebook pages have fixed their problems by doing that. Holley is really picky on its power source. I ran my car with an intermittent alt problem, any time my Voltage dropped under 11.8 it ran like crap. missing, bogging, crazy AFR. It would still start and run but terribly, as soon as voltage was 11.9 or higher it was perfect.

mclellan83 ^^^^^this is spot on. The Holley has to be on the battery - it’s not a recommendation, it’s a requirement. The ECU supplies power to everything without a relay (including ignition and injectors). So anything causing a ground interference creates issues.
 
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I decided to clean off the black. Hello remains of Mickey Thompson!!
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I have to wait until it’s hose weather to give a proper cleaning.


Making a minor mod to the valve cover and saying goodbye to PCV. I’m going to run a breather line from each valve cover rather than just a single line.
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It seems that at about 32-34lbs of boost I pushed out the PCV valve. It never did with the stock pistons, but one of two things must be happening, either a bump in compression or a different ring package is causing the issue. Perhaps the turbo that is another couple of HP has something to do with it well. Whatever is causing I, a threaded fitting should keep the hose connected lol.
 
I decided to clean off the black. Hello remains of Mickey Thompson!!
View attachment 218251View attachment 218253
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I have to wait until it’s hose weather to give a proper cleaning.


Making a minor mod to the valve cover and saying goodbye to PCV. I’m going to run a breather line from each valve cover rather than just a single line.View attachment 218254View attachment 218255

It seems that at about 32-34lbs of boost I pushed out the PCV valve. It never did with the stock pistons, but one of two things must be happening, either a bump in compression or a different ring package is causing the issue. Perhaps the turbo that is another couple of HP has something to do with it well. Whatever is causing I, a threaded fitting should keep the hose connected lol.

Why not just tap the valve cover itself? It'll give you a bigger OD and breathe even better.
 
Why not just tap the valve cover itself? It'll give you a bigger OD and breathe even better.
I’ve been running a single 1/2”’hose for a while, I think two 1/2” vents will be plenty. I have a plan to run an in-line PCV that I can swap on for street driving.
 
I’ve been running a single 1/2”’hose for a while, I think two 1/2” vents will be plenty. I have a plan to run an in-line PCV that I can swap on for street driving.

I have a 3/4" hose plus the factory 3/8" hose breathing on my dually and I still think I need more. Same with my Camaro. I don't think overkill is possible with crank case venting, and with the adult boost you're pushing I'd err on the side of all the overkill. Adding those 3/4" hoses dropped my oil consumption in both from "I should rebuild" to "meh".
 
Stuck a power steering cooler underneath the core support.
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While it’s not the best place for it, it’s higher than the brace bars, so it should be relatively safe here. Debating on a fan or ductwork for forced cooling. Also need to grab an auxiliary fan for the transmission cooler.
It's safe. But. Tricky.

I can't tell if it's at any part of an angle or not, to cool properly air needs to go through the fins, not just across the top of them.

My other concern depending on your driving. If you're stuck in city driving, with traffic, and that pavement gets hot in the summer, you may end up heating the fluid more than cooling it. You know how you see the heat waves coming off the asphalt when it's hot out and things look kinda blurry from them? All that heat will radiate upwards and get absorbed by the cooler, in theory.

I'd almost wonder if a void under the headlight portion of the support (between support and fender) with a duct up to it from under the bumper, then exiting through the wheelwell wouldn't be both safe and increase the cooling effect?
 
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It's safe. But. Tricky.

I can't tell if it's at any part of an angle or not, to cool properly air needs to go through the fins, not just across the top of them.

My other concern depending on your driving. If you're stuck in city driving, with traffic, and that pavement gets hot in the summer, you may end up heating the fluid more than cooling it. You know how you see the heat waves coming off the asphalt when it's hot out and things look kinda blurry from them? All that heat will radiate upwards and get absorbed by the cooler, in theory.

I'd almost wonder if a void under the headlight portion of the support (between support and fender) with a duct up to it from under the bumper, then exiting through the wheelwell wouldn't be both safe and increase the cooling effect?
It’s flat to the bottom of the core support and SS airbox, with about an inch of space between them. At first it had a significant downwards angle at the front, and had about 5 inches of space in the front, but I was worried that would’ve been lower than the SS chin spoiler, so I bent it back up to make it safer. I’ve got some spare sheet metal lying about to enclose the sides and rear so I can make a box to trap air going over the top via a duct. It’s only got ambient air otherwise. SPAL makes a nice 4 inch fan but I’m not in a rush to buy one because this is just in place to mock up the feed and return lines right now.

The car will see mostly country roads, but I do plan on taking road trips in it, which’ll make the fan a necessity.

I had considered mounting it under the charcoal canister area, but was worried about debris coming off the front tire because there was just enough space to comfortably fit this cooler with the lines, however once I installed the lower fender braces, it would’ve needed mounted vertically which would put it dangerously close to the bottom of the chin spoiler again and I’m not confident enough to stick it there. The area behind the headlights is also too small to physically fit this cooler as well.
 
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I love it. We have the 4” and really like them. The Glassteks are a quality piece. I kept mine off the windshield when up, but he s his about like yours lol.

What are you using for struts?



mclellan83 ^^^^^this is spot on. The Holley has to be on the battery - it’s not a recommendation, it’s a requirement. The ECU supplies power to everything without a relay (including ignition and injectors). So anything causing a ground interference creates issues.
Yeah that was the debate I had with my buddy helping me who pushed to put it on the alternator, the main Sniper is run to a junction that is then run direct to the battery with I/O gauge wire. Debated on putting a really small battery back up front just for the Holley stuff but then my buddy was saying they should then really be run in series so my plan is to just test with a jump pack to see if that changes anything
 
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