What did you do to your G-Body today 2024

Finished the oil balance line. Mediocre harbor freight tubing bender fought me quite a bit. It isn't touching the starter, I may tweak the line a bit to make it hug the block more. Goes from the oil pressure switch port back to the passenger oil galley to help feed the rear bottom end.
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Got up late, but still finished putting all the lower trim into primer:
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Finished up the vertical rear trim and the trunk lock cover I had lying around, then felt an itch for some more motivation to get this thing finished:
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Believe it or not, that’s the dealership that sold this car new in ‘84. I found it under the back seat in the shape it’s in now when I was tearing the car down 6 years ago. Had it in a lockbox since 🤣
 
Believe it or not, that’s the dealership that sold this car new in ‘84. I found it under the back seat in the shape it’s in now when I was tearing the car down 6 years ago. Had it in a lockbox since
Now that's something I can relate to.
 
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Looks like the new horn thingy is gonna play nice with the Grant steering wheel adapter.

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But I'd forgotten that I didn't leave the lock plate tool at the hangar. Just as well, that rust on the plate bugs me so I brought it home to clean. The 4th gen piece I'd tried before was too tall to sneak the horn wire through the adapter. I didn't go out there expressly for this anyway.
 
Yanked the PS pump off the 85 to rebuild/refresh it. Got a GM reseal kit, magnet, and junk for it. Also new thrust and pressure plates. Haven't dug into it so I'm not sure of condition of the vanes/rotor guts. I can say this, the fluid that came out of the unit was clear and only had a slight tinge of yellow. I'm still befuddled on that as it's that old yet not cruddy as heck. If I can pull this off, it's much cheaper than a rebuilt unit without having to give mine up and also know the condition of it going back in. But if I screw it up, I still got an NOS pulley and pump sitting in the wings if needed.

Whatever you do, if you even just swap out pumps, use the right "tool" to remove the pulley. I have a Kent Moore J-29785-A tool made especially for PS pulley removal (and some water pump pulleys). I have the installation tool too. To me, you're pulley won't survive if you don't use the specialized tools to remove/install it. No wonder Dorman makes aftermarket pulleys. There must be a demand for them.
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I had to take out the good starter and put in a bad starter so I could take out the bad starter and put the good starter back in. I think that means I leveled up in this mechanic game? The long version of the story is that the new starter I bought did not have enough pinion throw to engage the flywheel correctly so I put the old click, click, click, starter back in while I took the nose off the new starter and cut down the side the starter mounted on to increase the pinion depth.
 
Popped the distributor in and assembled the oil pump.
Took the balance line off one more time to clean and blow out any debris and reinstalled it.
 
Did some trouble shooting on all the issues, my buddy had the magic touch on fixing the tail light. But looks like the Dakota box may have failed causing it to go into demo mode, have to call them today once they open. Waited on the phone for 30 minutes for Edlebrock to tell me I'm probably better just buying a replacement O2 since it'll take them a month or more to replace it under warranty cause it needs sent it and checked. While messing with the box looked at the door pins and know I need to get into that sooner than later as well
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