What did you do to your G-Body today 2024

Wow, that turned out amazing! Extremely nice job. Love it.
Thanks D. It's not up to skunkworks quality level, but I learned some things along the way. The cup holder sections are just vinyl over 1/4" luan on top of the MDF, squeezed into the surround. I left the padding short to accommodate the inserts. I think the TKX shifter will land about the front of the frontmost cup holder, so that area will be rearranged down the road. The sides and lid have 1/4"(6 mm) scuba neoprene for padding. It's two sections- armrest/rear & front- bolted together inside the armrest. Will be bolted to the cross brace on the floor pan with a nutsert/rivnut.
 
Two under construction pics-
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Back to work on the Monte Carlo:

Car wouldn't start so my friend told me to pull the plugs and see if they were wet...which they were. I changed the plugs, replaced the ground strap to the firewall, and added a 1/0 ground from the front passenger head to the frame. Car fired instantly. He also said that I should get another distributor since I sprayed mine with a fire extinguisher last year to stop the car from burning down lol. I think he's right.
Unlike most vehicles you're better off not using the G Body frame for any negative/ ground attachments at all. In fact, GM didn't because the low quality metal is such a poor conductor of electricity. Just for fun, go hunting for any other ground wires that connect to the frame. I found 0.

It's my belief that any and all ground connections on a G Body should involve the battery, body, block and nothing else. I nearly burned my Elk to the ground by trying to be smarter than GM.

Edit: Not sure what's funny. The frames are comprised of lower quality steel and are therefore poor conductors for the same reason they flex- the metal molecules have weak bonds to each other. Try taking a multimeter to it and compare the resistance to that of a cable.
 
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  • Haha
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Attempted to install the CPP sway bar.
Ran into two issues. First one I expected. The old Coilover brackets are in the way so those need to be cutoff. Second, the arms are a little tight on the Hooker 3” exhaust. I’m hoping with a combination of adjusting the exhaust and spreading those legs. 😉
I can get it to clear.
 
Got it started on a whim with the new(ish) MSD setup. No fighting, backfiring, or general unwillingness on the car’s part when it came to running. Heck, it started at the touch of the starter switch!

On the worse side of things, my oil pressure and volt gauges no longer work, have to dig into that as I found out the car won’t stay running unless I hold the cold start override switch on to keep the MSD box triggered.
Then while I wanted to test it, the secondary fuel bowl needle stuck in the seat and poured fresh 90 octane everywhere 🫠

I am very, very lucky that this didn’t start a massive fire.


Guess I was a little too on point naming it Janky….
 
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After some days trying to sand (Burn Off) the Duplicolor spray can paint I finally started to spray gun the Primer. I am having a couple of issues doing it though. 1. I think I am going to have to reduce this primer a little more. 2. The Air Compressor I am using is losing Air Pressure very quickly, I have to spray a few square inches then wait for the pressure to build back up again. I did check for Air leaks and tightening up the Male end that connects to the Compressor I thought that would fix the problem but it didn't. By 2pm it got too hot and the gun was spitting I had to stop and clean it. I still have other area's of the car to finish up but I am fighting surface rust build up, thus I had to primer certain areas.

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Still waiting for Dakota to accept that the BIM box has failed, he keeps trying to find other reasons to point at unrelated stuff. One of his comments "If you have a GPS-50-x, try removing it from the BIM i/o chain and see if the BIM-19-x starts communicating. GPS-50 is notorious for interfering with other modules on the BIM i/o channels. You can also look in the gauge setup BIM menu for possible conflicts or missing items."
 
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Got my new chargers/maintainers for my hydraulic batteries and got em all set up. Waiting for a stand to arrive to keep the chargers off the ground. This will help keep the group 31s charged and maintained...especially as the Cutlass isn't driven very much. Batteries are getting too expensive to mess around charging them with my Schumacher 1072 which doesn't have auto shut off or maintain status. These batteries are only a couple months old. Fresh, charged batteries with hydraulics are always the safest and best bet!
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