What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2019]

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Installed a new muffler and tailpipe on my son's '07 Xterra. What a pita! Had to cut all the catalytic converter studs off, too rusted, broke bolts off in a cross member for a hanger. Started at 10am, finished at 2pm. But he spent $177 on parts, versus the $524 he was quoted at the local muffler shop...
 
Decisions, decisions......

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Helping a friend with her late father's 74 C10. I guess I get to rebuild an Edelbrock 1406, and become an Edelbrock carb expert. yippee
I have the same thing staring at me on my workbench in the garage, less the trash can. I like my 1406 just fine, only reason for the rebuild is it's gummed up from sitting stagnant for 15 plus years.
 
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Went to mow my parents house and managed to bend or break a push rod in my mower. Unfortunately, the mower shop wont be open until Monday so it got parked. Went home and drove the big tractor over to finish the yard, and managed to mangle the deck on some roots. Screw it, I guess it just isn't getting finished today.

On the upside, I found a broken kickdown cable end on my Jeep which was making the transmission slip when shifting into 3rd. Superglued it back together and she is holding gear again. The 42RE manages to live another day (somehow).
 
Had a grand ol time on Saturday night, decided to finally buy a router and do the wheels myself. Drive the GTO down so I can test fit the one I did Friday night to see how it fits, while snugging down the first wheel one of the wheel studs snap. Decide to move onto cutting another wheel and getting it on the other front because it appears will need a spacer to keep from rubbing which I have. Taking the lugs off the other front wheel one of the lugs is stripped and now can't come off, great have to be at work by 10p to do security at a bar. It's around 8p so figure I need to knock the other ones out quick which I do and just in enough time get home showered and out to work. The only pic I got was of all the metal from cutting the wheels, anyone know of a good removal kit? I attempted hammering a size smaller onto it and trying to get it off which didn't work, followed by hammering a punch into it to see if I can loosen the lug nut. Then hammering out each side to get a small crow bar into the lug to see if I could get a wrench to turn it. All no beuno, so I think they sell kits that just kind of clamp down and ruin the lug taking it off but that is fine with me at this point. Any input?
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Decisions, decisions......

View attachment 121764

Helping a friend with her late father's 74 C10. I guess I get to rebuild an Edelbrock 1406, and become an Edelbrock carb expert. yippee


That's next on my list to do on my Cougar since it's also been sitting. I finished up modding the front mounts on the CalTracs bars yesterday.

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More Rainier work

Been fighting a stumble when warm at idle for probably a year. When the engine is cold its fine, and when its hot its fine, but if I warm it up after say a 3 minute drive, shut it off, go inside to get groceries or something and come out about 20 seconds after I start it at idle it starts stumbing and missing with no check engine light.

FInally got it to turn "on" when I had my hptuners and was able to plug in and look at stuff.

Turns out my right o2 sensor heater circuit must be bad, and if its already hot its OK, or if I have enough exhaust flow its been fine, but when its at idle with low exhaust flow and low heat the heater wasnt working causing the sensor to tell the ECM the right side of the engine was lean so it would dump extra fuel in (15%) and it was too much and would stumble and miss. Changed the drivers side o2 probably 20K miles ago so it made sense that 250k+ its bad.

Laid underneath, it was tight. Admitted its not coming out with an o2 sensor socket or 12pt box end wrench so I hammered the top off the sensor and used my breaker bar and a 6pt socket. Still no go. Broke out the propane torch and heated it up, shocked it with some lube and went at it again, it barely moved but it was going. Got the sensor out AND it gauled the threads. Ran to o-really's and got a thread chaser, put the sensor in, fought the plug for like an hour (whoever designed the harness was a moron) since i could barely get my hand far enough up by the back of the block to plug it back in. Had to pull the dipstick and tire to get to it.

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I also took a look under the car just as a precautionary measure to see if anything else was bad and I was greated with a snapped upper rear control arm. WTF?

Looked and rock has them new for $55 each but of course they are a week away and I need to drive this. Local auto parts store had them for $187, no thanks, I have a welder.

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It snapped clean, no idea when
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Plated it the best I could. 250k is the design life for this chassis especially up north!
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More Rainier work

Been fighting a stumble when warm at idle for probably a year. When the engine is cold its fine, and when its hot its fine, but if I warm it up after say a 3 minute drive, shut it off, go inside to get groceries or something and come out about 20 seconds after I start it at idle it starts stumbing and missing with no check engine light.

FInally got it to turn "on" when I had my hptuners and was able to plug in and look at stuff.

Turns out my right o2 sensor heater circuit must be bad, and if its already hot its OK, or if I have enough exhaust flow its been fine, but when its at idle with low exhaust flow and low heat the heater wasnt working causing the sensor to tell the ECM the right side of the engine was lean so it would dump extra fuel in (15%) and it was too much and would stumble and miss. Changed the drivers side o2 probably 20K miles ago so it made sense that 250k+ its bad.

Laid underneath, it was tight. Admitted its not coming out with an o2 sensor socket or 12pt box end wrench so I hammered the top off the sensor and used my breaker bar and a 6pt socket. Still no go. Broke out the propane torch and heated it up, shocked it with some lube and went at it again, it barely moved but it was going. Got the sensor out AND it gauled the threads. Ran to o-really's and got a thread chaser, put the sensor in, fought the plug for like an hour (whoever designed the harness was a moron) since i could barely get my hand far enough up by the back of the block to plug it back in. Had to pull the dipstick and tire to get to it.

View attachment 122013


I also took a look under the car just as a precautionary measure to see if anything else was bad and I was greated with a snapped upper rear control arm. WTF?

Looked and rock has them new for $55 each but of course they are a week away and I need to drive this. Local auto parts store had them for $187, no thanks, I have a welder.

View attachment 122015

It snapped clean, no idea when
View attachment 122018

Plated it the best I could. 250k is the design life for this chassis especially up north!
View attachment 122019

I feel you on the O2 sensors... built like it is a lifetime part. I made extensions so I could avoid that (and add headers) in thr TBSS.

And fixed is fixed.
 
Still trying to get that damn lug nut off, the mechanic had a socket that had a punch of little metal pieces that covered the entire inner of the socket it so that it should push back and theoretically grip around the lug to get it off. No such luck, so now I am thinking about going this route that is an Ebay option Anyone have any experience with something like them?

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Still trying to get that damn lug nut off, the mechanic had a socket that had a punch of little metal pieces that covered the entire inner of the socket it so that it should push back and theoretically grip around the lug to get it off. No such luck, so now I am thinking about going this route that is an Ebay option Anyone have any experience with something like them?

View attachment 122144
Drill it. Bonus if you have big, left handed bits- might grab it and unscrew it.
 
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