More Rainier work
Been fighting a stumble when warm at idle for probably a year. When the engine is cold its fine, and when its hot its fine, but if I warm it up after say a 3 minute drive, shut it off, go inside to get groceries or something and come out about 20 seconds after I start it at idle it starts stumbing and missing with no check engine light.
FInally got it to turn "on" when I had my hptuners and was able to plug in and look at stuff.
Turns out my right o2 sensor heater circuit must be bad, and if its already hot its OK, or if I have enough exhaust flow its been fine, but when its at idle with low exhaust flow and low heat the heater wasnt working causing the sensor to tell the ECM the right side of the engine was lean so it would dump extra fuel in (15%) and it was too much and would stumble and miss. Changed the drivers side o2 probably 20K miles ago so it made sense that 250k+ its bad.
Laid underneath, it was tight. Admitted its not coming out with an o2 sensor socket or 12pt box end wrench so I hammered the top off the sensor and used my breaker bar and a 6pt socket. Still no go. Broke out the propane torch and heated it up, shocked it with some lube and went at it again, it barely moved but it was going. Got the sensor out AND it gauled the threads. Ran to o-really's and got a thread chaser, put the sensor in, fought the plug for like an hour (whoever designed the harness was a moron) since i could barely get my hand far enough up by the back of the block to plug it back in. Had to pull the dipstick and tire to get to it.
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I also took a look under the car just as a precautionary measure to see if anything else was bad and I was greated with a snapped upper rear control arm. WTF?
Looked and rock has them new for $55 each but of course they are a week away and I need to drive this. Local auto parts store had them for $187, no thanks, I have a welder.
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It snapped clean, no idea when
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Plated it the best I could. 250k is the design life for this chassis especially up north!
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