What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

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mclellan83

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Jun 27, 2017
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Only the 4.8 has a shorter stroke. Difference between 5.3 and 6.0 is all bore.
Not really any need for the 6.0 if you are going with a turbo. I think the shorter stroke of the 4.8/5.3 will work better for you and make as much power as you want.
There I go again, now back and forth. Buddy said he knew someone getting rid of a 4.8, but really wanna stick with 5.3 or 6.0. But haven't found anything for a good price that is in the years I was looking. Found some decent prices for the early 2000s 5.3
 

motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
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Got some more parts for the Blazer, now leaning towards the 6.0 for it but would like the 04-06 to handle the boost. Mike I did scan your build quickly but didn't see it jump out what all you had into your Monte build, any idea?

The questions are: Goals (ie. ET, driveability, AWD - don't say 1000hp (that is what dumb sh*ts say)) and budget (double it and add 50%).

The non-4.8$ are great engines. But, for every extra bit of displacement or aluminum or better cylinder head comes with an added tax.

Arguably the best kept secret is the Gen IV 4.8L - 243/799 heads, best rods and floating pins, best rod ratio, etc. It is a very robust engine especially if you can keep the RPM drop between shifts at/above MBT (reduces stress).

Any good turbo is going to support this, however properly sizing the exhaust side is going to have huge returns especially if you can keep the pre-turbine back pressure down and have an appropriately sized downpipe and exhaust system to support your goals.

The 5.3 in the Monte right now is a Gen III long block, home ported 706s, LS6 cam and springs, stock rockers, LS2 pushrods, LS1 lifters, modified oil pump, and a stock TBSS intake.

The 4.8 that is going in is a stock Gen III long block, home ported 241s, a 227/230 .605/.608 113+3 cam, dual springs, trunnion bushings, LS2 chain, modified oil pump, and 11/32" push rods, LS7 lifters, and I will port the TBSS intake.

The same ported manifolds will continue to feed a 2.5" hotside, into a 3" merge, a ported GT45 (compressor and turbine) and discharge into a Warr Performance 92mm throttle body. The wastegate is a 60mm and the BOV is a 40mm - both are TiAL knock offs... and a 4" down pipe and exhaust.

80pph Siemens Dekas, a 450 Walbro (with room for another), and a -10/-6 AN fuel system with a Holley donkey dick regulator.

Oh and the wonky meth injection. ;)
 
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mclellan83

Comic Book Super Hero
Jun 27, 2017
4,270
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113
Pgh, PA
The questions are: Goals (ie. ET, driveability, AWD - don't say 1000hp (that is what dumb sh*ts say)) and budget (double it and add 50%).

The non-4.8$ are great engines. But, for every extra bit of displacement or aluminum or better cylinder head comes with an added tax.

Arguably the best kept secret is the Gen IV 4.8L - 243/799 heads, best rods and floating pins, best rod ratio, etc. It is a very robust engine especially if you can keep the RPM drop between shifts at/above MBT (reduces stress).

Any good turbo is going to support this, however properly sizing the exhaust side is going to have huge returns especially if you can keep the pre-turbine back pressure down and have an appropriately sized downpipe and exhaust system to support your goals.

The 5.3 in the Monte right now is a Gen III long block, home ported 706s, LS6 cam and springs, stock rockers, LS2 pushrods, LS1 lifters, modified oil pump, and a stock TBSS intake.

The 4.8 that is going in is a stock Gen III long block, home ported 241s, a 227/230 .605/.608 113+3 cam, dual springs, trunnion bushings, LS2 chain, modified oil pump, and 11/32" push rods, LS7 lifters, and I will port the TBSS intake.

The same ported manifolds will continue to feed a 2.5" hotside, into a 3" merge, a ported GT45 (compressor and turbine) and discharge into a Warr Performance 92mm throttle body. The wastegate is a 60mm and the BOV is a 40mm - both are TiAL knock offs... and a 4" down pipe and exhaust.

80pph Siemens Dekas, a 450 Walbro (with room for another), and a -10/-6 AN fuel system with a Holley donkey dick regulator.

Oh and the wonky meth injection. ;)
I just want a lowly old 550-600hp AWD truck that I never track, mainly just a cruiser that I obviously drive like an A hole. Yeah I know sloppy says that those 4.8's are gems too, just afraid I will turn into one of those size queens who will have envy for not going bigger. My thought it just to get something in with the 700r4 to get it running and done, then over the winter once I have some cash saved drop in the turbo and all needed stuff while also putting in a 4L80 to handle that power.

I did just come across this which is a bit of a hike:

I have a very nice late modle aluminum 5.3 with 799 heads it has piston and rods and all bearings including mains wich are still like new! Needed the crankshaft so it does not have crank! Its super low mile motor as u can tell by pics its all still clean! I also have several aluminum 5.7l ls blocks and 1 of them is ls6 block in good condition we went all 6.0l so no need for them. Also have other ls parts such as forged flat top pistons and some rods and other odd end parts.
116717191_3275547422508391_5593782799462003364_o.jpg
116879430_3275547552508378_3252497063229731657_o.jpg
117251692_3275547459175054_4991573646409212575_o.jpg
117315443_3275547485841718_647222438662149748_o.jpg
 

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
18,697
113
Spring, Texas
Only the 4.8 has a shorter stroke. Difference between 5.3 and 6.0 is all bore.
You got me. I looked it up before posting but my misconception led me to read the chart wrong.
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
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Western MN
I just want a lowly old 550-600hp AWD truck that I never track, mainly just a cruiser that I obviously drive like an A hole.

Honestly, you have AWD (right?) and limitations with t-cases and trans options. 600hp is a good top end goal.

If I were you, I would take advantage of the AWD part and build a 6.0 with a blower, or something that makes really good torque down low. 5.3 with a medium stall and a turbo that has a smaller exhaust side for fast spool. Exploit the AWD and put power down early and fast. It might run out of steam up top but everyone with a 2800lb gutted turbo car can run 150mph+ out the back end of the 1/4. I wouldn't build a 3600lb+ brick to run high MPH.

If its a RWD only clone ignore what I said.
 
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Turbolq4

Royal Smart Person
Sep 25, 2017
1,732
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Nampa Idaho
Honestly, you have AWD (right?) and limitations with t-cases and trans options. 600hp is a good top end goal.

If I were you, I would take advantage of the AWD part and build a 6.0 with a blower, or something that makes really good torque down low. 5.3 with a medium stall and a turbo that has a smaller exhaust side for fast spool. Exploit the AWD and put power down early and fast. It might run out of steam up top but everyone with a 2800lb gutted turbo car can run 150mph+ out the back end of the 1/4. I wouldn't build a 3600lb+ brick to run high MPH.

If its a RWD only clone ignore what I said.
Lots of good stuff here.
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
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Saskatchewan, Truckistan
I just want a lowly old 550-600hp AWD truck that I never track, mainly just a cruiser that I obviously drive like an A hole. Yeah I know sloppy says that those 4.8's are gems too, just afraid I will turn into one of those size queens who will have envy for not going bigger. My thought it just to get something in with the 700r4 to get it running and done, then over the winter once I have some cash saved drop in the turbo and all needed stuff while also putting in a 4L80 to handle that power.

I did just come across this which is a bit of a hike:

I have a very nice late modle aluminum 5.3 with 799 heads it has piston and rods and all bearings including mains wich are still like new! Needed the crankshaft so it does not have crank! Its super low mile motor as u can tell by pics its all still clean! I also have several aluminum 5.7l ls blocks and 1 of them is ls6 block in good condition we went all 6.0l so no need for them. Also have other ls parts such as forged flat top pistons and some rods and other odd end parts.
View attachment 154481 View attachment 154482 View attachment 154483 View attachment 154484

That thing looks like a nightmare to get right. Robbed of key parts and no longer sealed; and full of debris. Run away!

550ish HP is a cake walk for any LS. No need to open it up beyond a cam and springs - especially for a Gen IV 4.8L as it won't have any DOD or AFM issues. The 4L80E conversion vs. the billet 4L60E is going to be an interesting debate... I went billet 4L70E in the TBSS for a reason: Ease.

I am not up to speed on the robustness of the SY/TY AWD system - but uber low end torque may not work well, especially with traction.
 
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mclellan83

Comic Book Super Hero
Jun 27, 2017
4,270
9,483
113
Pgh, PA
Honestly, you have AWD (right?) and limitations with t-cases and trans options. 600hp is a good top end goal.

If I were you, I would take advantage of the AWD part and build a 6.0 with a blower, or something that makes really good torque down low. 5.3 with a medium stall and a turbo that has a smaller exhaust side for fast spool. Exploit the AWD and put power down early and fast. It might run out of steam up top but everyone with a 2800lb gutted turbo car can run 150mph+ out the back end of the 1/4. I wouldn't build a 3600lb+ brick to run high MPH.

If its a RWD only clone ignore what I said.
Yeah it is AWD, but honestly don't plan on tracking it at all. Just something to scoot around in that is like the rest of what I have, not something you see everyday
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
8,976
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Work continues around the property - day two of pouring a footing for the floating slab under the shed which has eroded (because no eaves troughs) from underneath over the years. 4.5 bags of quick set later...

IMG_20200812_154642.jpg
IMG_20200812_154512_MP.jpg


Once I pull the form off I can back-fill the area around it with 3/4 crush to address any further erosion.

Tomorrow we fix the 4x4 fence post that rotted away... and fix that leaning section posted above. Good times.
 
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