What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

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So today I put the finishing touches on one of the two post-muffler exhaust pipes that currently reside under my 03 S-10. This was a muffler back semi-replacement because the front section had finally rotted right out in two places. Since the back half over the diff section was still in good shape I elected to salvage it and modify it to fit the new portion. Ended up having to take the rear half out again and shorten it by 2" to get it to line up exactly with its partner both going over the differential and exiting at the rear of the box just ahead of the bumper. The last thing on that list was to fab a new tie bar to fit under the pipe where it exited the muffler. It picks up a pair of rubber hangers that offer both support for the pipe but let it move just a bit to accommodate motor vibration. That meant a little bit of crawling around on the floor to get the MIG gun into position to set some tacks to hold it all together. Threw a coat of paint at the rim on the safety spare that now rides around under the back of the pickup box. When I retrofitted the rear anti-sway bar into place, I found that the full sized spare no longer nested correctly into the rack below the bed. The solution was to locate a safety spare that had the correct height to match my existing rubber have the tire dismounted, and then mate it to another rim that would accept the safety unit and that had the correct bolt pattern. I keep a few of them around as car movers when I don't want to go to all the trouble of mounting up a regular wheel. They are getting hard to come by. Works for me.

Today's other project was to complete the stripping project that I had started on one of the Indian tanks. By way of a little bit of history, this tank allegedly came from a 40 Chief so it is 80! years old. I must have scored it at least 40 years ago and at point it got body worked using an obscene amount of Aluminum loaded metal filler. Between a 3M XLT stripping wheel coupled up to my air drill and a hammer and chisel I did manage to remove all the filler; about a 1/2 inch thick at its deepest, and reveal the extent of the damage that I had hidden so many years ago. This tank may prove to be salvageable but it will take a specialist who knows how to melt out the solder seams to take it apart to where it can be dollied back into shape from the inside and then silver soldered back to together. Eighty year old solder is mostly lead based and not to be taken lightly. I went full bunny suit with a full breather, full face shield, and ear protection, just to remove the filler. As of right now it might just get a coat of rust inhibitor and put back on the shelf. it is half of a pair so someone might be interested in it. Pictures to follow.

Nick.
 
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Kind of quiet here right now on the non-G whatcha doin' site, but as I suggested I'd be doing earlier on, here are the pictures from that tank stripping exercise.

The first one is a comparison shot between the 47 Indian Chief tank, which has its side metal curves intact, and what I finally uncovered on the 40 Indian Chief tank after some major excavation.

The second pic is just a close up of how brutal and extensive the damage had been before it got covered up.

The third and final pic is a micrometer measurement of a section of the filler showing just how thick things got.

The back story on this goes back over 40 years and I make no excuse for the fact that, back then, I was no bodyman. There was no practical way to gain access to the damage from the outside short of trying to weld washers or similar attachment points to the damage and trying to peel it out with a puller, which back then I didn't have; I hadn't got to the point of doing my own maintenance and there wasn't even the notional concept of personal computers to refer to for help LOLBT. A pro body shop likely could have undone the wreckage but around here they shunned bike work and it wasn't like anyone was familiar with what I was working on. So it became the cheapest and easiest option that ruled the day. What you see being measured, and yes, at certain points of the damage, the cave in is actually as much as, or deeper than a 1/2 inch, is an early form of a two part filler that used a dry powder mic with a high percentage of powdered aluminum dust in it. It's catalyst or activator was a thick syrupy goo about the consistency of warm honey that was probably toxic and evil and smelled brutal. The basic idea was to turn the powder into a consistently thick dollop of goo by adding small amounts of the catalyst and mixing it like you were stirring the ingredients of a cake. Yumm. Then you slathered it one and let it harden and ground away what you didn't want using a drill motor with a sanding disc on it. No sophistication here. After that it was lather-rinse-repeat. Finish it off with bondo or spot filler and throw a coat of paint at it. Oddly enough the final product did not look all that back for a shade tree exercise. I may post a pic of the matching tank as it still wears its finish coat as well as a pic of the product itself as I still have the powdered material. The catalyst is no longer marketed or available and probably all for the best; you wouldn't be able to read the can for all the Cali Prop 65 cancer warnings that would likely be plastered all over it.

Given the extent of the newly rediscovered damage, the only practical way to repair it still remains dissassembly. Only now all the old pros who used to work with radiator solder and the like are gone; retired and died. (WARNING, WARNING, WARNING, WILL ROBINSON, LEAD BASED SOLDER FROM THE GOOD OLD DAYS IS LETHAL WHEN INHALED. IT WILL KEELL YOU!!) Which was why I went full bunny suit and personal protective equipment when I took this filler off in the first place, I know that without it being repaired and pressure tested, it can never be used in the field so it may just get a good coat of RustCheck and retired to the history wall. The same holds true for its partner; pretty sure the damage it took was worse and that there is at least one tear in the tank skin that never got repaired correctly for it to hold gas without leaking.

So they both belong to the wall. Which is not to say that if some collector/restorer with the skills and talents who absolutely had to have to exact correct tanks for a 100 point restoration came along and made the proverbial offer, they would not go down the road but again, unlikely to happen in my corner of isolation land.


Nick
 
Finishing up a few things on my Grand Cherokee the. I installed a PAC SWI-RC-1 to let me have my steering wheel radio controls with my aftermarket stereo. There was no instructions for this era of Grand Cherokee, so a lot of it was googling and guessing to get it kind of working.

I got it mostly working, but the box couldn't tell the difference between the Volume + and the Channel +. I ended up contacting their technical support and they sent me a list of things to check with a voltmeter and even sent a diagram of a '98 Grand Cherokee steering wheel control system. They ended up getting me lined out on how it was wired, and it is working great now.

Not bad service for an "unsupported application".

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Yesterday I dropped the rear of the new project. Hope to clean it up some and flip it. Wish I could keep it but I can fit 4 kids in it...
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I post the after pics later I still need to drop the front. This is the before.
It’s supposedly a 350ss. Have not checked the RPOs yet. Interior is mint aside from some cracks in the dash. Plan to paint and a couple little things
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Copy/paste from LS1Tech.


Did an autox/time attack event today and really got my *ss kicked. The fast guys on A7s were running low 44s and I ran a 50/50/49/49/47.8. This course layout had some real counterintuitive gates. What's worse is having run the road course at this venue, so the presence of curbs messed with me bad. Excuses excuses, I know. The point is I suck at low speed stuff and this layout was all that. No accel/braking, lots of constantish speed stuff that just didn't make sense for the first 4 runs. Pretty sure I had a 46 in me but the day was over. I learn too slow. F me. The video has a 49.1 that I coned out of and my clean 47.8. This pig is a handful.


 
Why so much corrosion? That’s excessive even for Michigan
That's Maryland; they love the salt down here. It hardly even snowed last year, but they still spread the stuff for next year's budget. Plus, about the only time I drive it anymore is in the snow. It sits behind my garage in the woods.
 
Copy/paste from LS1Tech.


Did an autox/time attack event today and really got my *ss kicked. The fast guys on A7s were running low 44s and I ran a 50/50/49/49/47.8. This course layout had some real counterintuitive gates. What's worse is having run the road course at this venue, so the presence of curbs messed with me bad. Excuses excuses, I know. The point is I suck at low speed stuff and this layout was all that. No accel/braking, lots of constantish speed stuff that just didn't make sense for the first 4 runs. Pretty sure I had a 46 in me but the day was over. I learn too slow. F me. The video has a 49.1 that I coned out of and my clean 47.8. This pig is a handful.



Those gloves are cute.

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It's okay; if I had soft hands I would wear some too. 😉

That looks like a riot.
 
Those gloves are cute.

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It's okay; if I had soft hands I would wear some too. 😉

That looks like a riot.

LOL, they're grippy. I nerded out and wore my racing shoes too to keep things consistent. I did a bunch of stuff I told you was wrong too. Autox is hard.
 
LOL, they're grippy. I nerded out and wore my racing shoes too to keep things consistent. I did a bunch of stuff I told you was wrong too. Autox is hard.

I bet. We have one guy in our club who races barefoot... I ain't pretending to be that kind of hard. Hell, I have the softest feet of anyone in the Infantry ever.

Evidently while autocross is hard, it isn't racing:

I guess drag racing isn't racing either. Or anything in the Olympics. Or generally anything involving time keeping.
 
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