What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

[MrSony]

Me n my dad removed the hvac box of the 76f250, cleaned it out, and replaced the blower motor. Twas a pain in the *ss. 2/10 dont recommend. but still easier than a g body.
also redid some more sh*t wiring.

 

[joesregalproject]

Likey going to be doing some trailer hauling with the Rainier this winter and it sounds nice to have more than 75% of the control arms attached to the frame so I decided to get the passenger side hole in the frame filled and build the uca mount back in.

I did the drivers side in may and procrastinated on the passenger side.

View attachment 159611

What was left of the inside of the frame
View attachment 159612

Hacked the outside piece off too since it had a big crack through the center
View attachment 159613

Sawed a patch panel and tacked
View attachment 159614

Zzzt zzzt
View attachment 159615
View attachment 159616

I at least feel safe hauling a car again.

Some nice looking welds especially considering the rusty metal you were welding to.

 

[81cutlass]

Some nice looking welds especially considering the rusty metal you were welding to.

Thanks!

I have to give some credit to the welder. It's a Lincoln MP210 and has a good amount of control and has a nice display with a suggested auto settings so it's easy to get right the first time. I'm too cheap to have bought it (it's technically on multi year loan from Dad but he has 4 other welders and he doesn't need a 5th) but after using it I would buy one over a hobart with less adjustability for sure.

Flap wheel and a hot welder helps a lot!

Sometimes I wish I was an off roader, would make parts fab a lot more usable skill 🙂

 

[Olds G's]

To catch up on a few things, I've been very active job hunting. Nearly 8 months now since COVID changed everything around. To keep me sane (operative word there) I keep up with our daily rides plus the '84 Cutlass and '88 Cadillac Brougham. Recently the Cadillac tossed the radiator and the water pump at the same time. Attached are some pictures of the progress to date. All has been replaced with AC Delco parts except the radiator which I got from NAPA and is made in Canada. I wanted to replace the heater core at the same time. The one offered was from China and surprisingly did not fit. Real shocker there. A close inspection of the original heater core and flush of the unit showed that it is in serviceable condition so it was reinstalled. New upper and lower hoses from AC Delco and heater hoses from NAPA as well. Reading the General Motors Cadillac service manual about flushing, it asks to use water only and run the engine to temperature. Drain the radiator when safe to do so and check the condition of the drained water. If not clear, repeat until it is, then service with 50/50 anti-freeze, demineralized water mix. After 2 times of this procedure the water still looked awful. The only component undisturbed is the engine block water passages. Realizing that I am getting nowhere fast I stopped by my local Cadillac dealer to discuss options. Seems they have a machine that will agitate with a detergent to clean a bit more aggressively than I ever would be able to aside from engine disassembly. I gave them the go ahead to accomplish this task and a few other items since the car will be there. They have techs there that have been since the 80's and only work on cars of this vintage or older. $129.00 per hour plus parts is not the worst here. Lots of shops are 139 or 149 anymore. I bring the car to them next Wednesday morning.

 

[motorheadmike]

Likey going to be doing some trailer hauling with the Rainier this winter and it sounds nice to have more than 75% of the control arms attached to the frame so I decided to get the passenger side hole in the frame filled and build the uca mount back in.

I did the drivers side in may and procrastinated on the passenger side.

View attachment 159611

What was left of the inside of the frame
View attachment 159612

Hacked the outside piece off too since it had a big crack through the center
View attachment 159613

Sawed a patch panel and tacked
View attachment 159614

Zzzt zzzt
View attachment 159615
View attachment 159616

I at least feel safe hauling a car again.

What in the actual f*ck?!



I am sending my TBSS in for rust proofing again next Friday for just this reason.

 

[81cutlass]

View attachment 159679


What in the actual f*ck?!



I am sending my TBSS in for rust proofing again next Friday for just this reason.

Yeah, I noticed that that spot was soft last November when I noticed one of my control arms had broken. I didn't have 220V in the garage at the time or a heater so I waited until spring to fix the drivers side (which had the broken arm). I booger welded the arm as a quick fix. I poked at it wit the screwdriver and it literally just crumbled to nothing.

From what I could tell sand had fallen in the the bottom U shape of the mount, got wet, and never dried. It basically rotted at a horizontal line on the outside in line with the top of the U shape and the inside rotted out from stuff being packed in between the control arm and the frame. I never noticed it until it got this bad.

Oddly enough these GMT360's don't visibly rust like a GMT800 since the doors have plastic cladding over them, the rockers have a cover, and the plastic rear bumpers go up pretty high so the only visible rust you get is over the rear wheels (which I already fixed).

265k on it now. Shooting for 300k? My oil pump pickup oring is cracked I think but its not worth fixing it. If that goes I'm shutting it off and keeping the LM4 for a project and finally replacing it.

This is the drivers side last may before I fixed it. The passenger side was worse.

 

[motorheadmike]

Yeah, I noticed that that spot was soft last November when I noticed one of my control arms had broken. I didn't have 220V in the garage at the time or a heater so I waited until spring to fix the drivers side (which had the broken arm). I booger welded the arm as a quick fix. I poked at it wit the screwdriver and it literally just crumbled to nothing.

From what I could tell sand had fallen in the the bottom U shape of the mount, got wet, and never dried. It basically rotted at a horizontal line on the outside in line with the top of the U shape and the inside rotted out from stuff being packed in between the control arm and the frame. I never noticed it until it got this bad.

Oddly enough these GMT360's don't visibly rust like a GMT800 since the doors have plastic cladding over them, the rockers have a cover, and the plastic rear bumpers go up pretty high so the only visible rust you get is over the rear wheels (which I already fixed).

265k on it now. Shooting for 300k? My oil pump pickup oring is cracked I think but its not worth fixing it. If that goes I'm shutting it off and keeping the LM4 for a project and finally replacing it.

This is the drivers side last may before I fixed it. The passenger side was worse.
View attachment 159680
View attachment 159681

I commend your repair skills - but an ounce of prevention...

 

[81cutlass]

I commend your repair skills - but an ounce of prevention...

Absolutely. If I knew this was a place these would rot out, I would have hosed it out years ago. I wish I would have spent a bit of time painting the frame on this thing 6 years ago when I got it. Definitely would have saved me time now.

 

[MrSony]

Pos wouldn't start. No spark.
You think I would have learned my lesson with crappy spray painted Fords. Guess not.

 

[MrSony]

Poked some wires. Put a timing light on a plug wire and coil wire. Guess the poking made the Spark came back. Still wouldn't start. Tweakers that put the new tank in put the crusty *ss old sending unit in and I guess ****ed up the pickup. Had 5 gallons in the tank and wouldn't pull fuel. Put 3 more in and it pulled fuel then started.

But still bought a bunch of sh*t it needed.
Shocks
Sending unit
Muffler
Coil
Module
Vacuum modulator
Trans pan gasket and filter
Air cleaner gasket
Tstat
Etc