What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

Status
Not open for further replies.
So I got the greenhouse re-bagged for the winter and still managed to take a pic or few of the 700R4

DSCN2672.JPG


DSCN2673.JPG


On the engine, temporary a transmission, stand, upside down, and masked and papered, with the color shot done, sits my 700R4. For those who have following my misadventures with my BOP 400, this is NOT that transmission. That particular hulk is sitting on a cart that doubles as a mobile work bench and which currently resides over by the compressor.

DSCN2677.JPG



DSCN2675.JPG


DSCN2676.JPG


And finally, the 700R4 rests, upright once more, on the engine/transmission stand. For keen eyed among you that are wondering what is that object sitting under the t-mission, it is just another of my ongoing contributions to the legacy of Rube Goldberg. Simply put, to do the filter swap, the t-mission had to be drained and to do that you have to drop the pan. The pan holds around 11 qts and is heavy when full making it awkward to pull the mounting bolts and still keep it from dropping suddenly and dumping ATF all over everywhere. A large radiator drain pan is just large enough to accept all the oil without spilling it but the further the catch basin is from the pan, the easier it is to spill. So what I did was to take the hard stop from my home made bike lift and locate it on the rail that connects the rear stand axle to the front one. It fit so I drilled it for holes to accept a pair of 2 x 4 ribs, mounted at right angles to the main bracket. On them I stacked a couple of layers of additional 2x's, measured to be sitting centered and held in place with #8 deck screws, and that got me high enough and close enough to the pan with still enough room to access and remove the retaining bolts that I could set a large boot tray in place and then lay the drain pan in it. Anything overflowing the drain pan gets caught by the tray which keeps the floor clean? (Clean used as a descriptor in connection with my floors is something of an oxymoron.) it actually worked fairly well once I figured out that the pan has a rake to it and you have to remove the front bolts and first few leading side bolts on each side to get it to drop properly so that the oil can gently slop over the rails of the pan and down into the catch pan. Because the rad pan has a spout on it, dumping the oil into a 5 gal pail for recycle is a lot simpler and cleaner.

The last pic is of the dipstick tube and a few other associated items. For purposed of refilling the transmission, the stock C-10 transmission tube has been left in place for now. It will have to be replaced by one that is van specific because they are a lot longer to bring the tube completely into the engine bay. Leaving the stocker in place is an option but would make it necessary to dismantle the doghouse and its supercover back in the cabin if at any time someone would want to check the ATF level. Bloody boring nuisance, that.

Also managed to shoot the clear coat on the latest 47 hub. It will sit overnight before I try to bring it in the house in order for the smell of clear to dissipate. Brought it in too early the last time and the house stank of curing paint for a week. Pictures? possibly???


Nick
 
It rained here for a little more than three days straight, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, on into Sunday morning. Saturday evening my brother discovered water on the driver's side door panel of his 02 Sierra Extended Cab. Both sunvisors were wet. The front portion of the headliner was wet. The front floorboards on both sides were wet.

Sunday morning we pulled it in the garage, to get out of the rain and started investigating. We ended up working on it all day Sunday. We pulled the headliner, seats, console, carpet, jute padding etc. It came apart pretty nice. I only broke one tab on one trim panel and we glued it back together.

The passenger front and rear floorboards were soaked. The driver's side wasn't that wet, though I did find moisture behind the A-Pillar trim and the kick panel over there. I found the same on the passenger side. All I can figure is the windshield is leaking and has suddenly gotten worse. The truck was in the driveway pulled in front first, so the front of the truck was higher than the rear. That side of the driveway slopes to the passenger side.

We put the seats back in it so it is usable for the time being. We ordered new carpet and are trying to figure out who we'll get to do the headliner for us. We also ordered a box of the Eastwood X-Mat (their version of Dynamat).

We caught this in time. The floor pans are spotless. The truck didn't stink. I think we saved the jute padding. The next step is to take the hose to it and try to pinpoint the location of the leak. Here's some pics of our day....

View attachment 163186

View attachment 163187

View attachment 163188

View attachment 163189

View attachment 163190

View attachment 163191

View attachment 163192

View attachment 163193

View attachment 163194

View attachment 163195

View attachment 163196

Man, that's a lot of plastic.
It was raining pretty steady at the house this morning when I went to leave to go to work. I went ahead and jumped in Sean's truck to see if I could spot the source of the leak(s). I spotted a few trouble areas. First, there is water dripping from the factory XM/OnStar/Cellular antenna. In the following pic, there is a water droplet coming off of the pink wiring connector...….

12-02-20_02.jpg


That was a pretty steady drip, say every 30 seconds. Worse than that, take look down here where the passenger kick panel goes....

12-02-20_01.jpg


That's a stream of water running of the hole for the lower kick panel trim clip. There is standing water inside the cowl up to that opening (probably 5 inches or so above the rocker?). Sean ordered a new antenna. I was up for trying to remove it and reseal it, as it didn't look bad on the outside but he wanted a new one. I don't blame him. He's keeping this truck for the long haul and when are we going to have the headliner down again? The antenna is 19 years old so it's tough to say it isn't justifiable to replace it while a new one is available. On the kick panel, that will take some investigation. I'm going to start with looking at the accordion boot from the cowl to the door for the power window/mirror/lock wiring. I have the wire for the aftermarket XM antenna sneaking through it so I'm wondering if this leak is self inflicted. We'll see.
 
Just got part of Cyber Monday binge of lights, man I think these are going to look really good on the Blazer. I am sure I will get a bunch of hate from the Blazer guys because it is very different

20201203_150120.jpg
20201203_150105.jpg
20201203_150021.jpg
20201203_150016.jpg
 
And so it begins.

The house has a big quartz mantle for the fireplace upstairs and it's causing the floor to sag. Knew it when we bought the house and it's likely not structural but needs to be fixed. Simply not enough reinforcement in the floor for a thousand+ pound load.

Family member of my Wife is a contractor who is layed off for the winter so we are having him consult for our fix.

The issue
1607038834944.png


Unfinishing the basement. Only 2 joists going to the sill and 3 are tee'd into them so it's a lot of load over 60+ years.
1607038875802.png


Part of the issue
1607038902214.png


Sagging joists
1607038921839.png


So main plan is to jack the sagging joists back into flush and install some steel hangers and add more hardware. From there, determine how to sister the main 2x8's with something. (LVL, just another 2x8?) I guess thats where hiring the family contractor friend comes in.

I think a good amount of the issue can be solved by just fixing the nailed joints that have separated over the years.
 
And so it begins.

The house has a big quartz mantle for the fireplace upstairs and it's causing the floor to sag. Knew it when we bought the house and it's likely not structural but needs to be fixed. Simply not enough reinforcement in the floor for a thousand+ pound load.

Family member of my Wife is a contractor who is layed off for the winter so we are having him consult for our fix.

The issue
View attachment 163401

Unfinishing the basement. Only 2 joists going to the sill and 3 are tee'd into them so it's a lot of load over 60+ years.
View attachment 163402

Part of the issue
View attachment 163403

Sagging joists
View attachment 163404

So main plan is to jack the sagging joists back into flush and install some steel hangers and add more hardware. From there, determine how to sister the main 2x8's with something. (LVL, just another 2x8?) I guess thats where hiring the family contractor friend comes in.

I think a good amount of the issue can be solved by just fixing the nailed joints that have separated over the years.
Jam a lolly column under it, and box it out.
 
  • Indifferent
Reactions: 81cutlass
And so it begins.

The house has a big quartz mantle for the fireplace upstairs and it's causing the floor to sag. Knew it when we bought the house and it's likely not structural but needs to be fixed. Simply not enough reinforcement in the floor for a thousand+ pound load.

Family member of my Wife is a contractor who is layed off for the winter so we are having him consult for our fix.

The issue
View attachment 163401

Unfinishing the basement. Only 2 joists going to the sill and 3 are tee'd into them so it's a lot of load over 60+ years.
View attachment 163402

Part of the issue
View attachment 163403

Sagging joists
View attachment 163404

So main plan is to jack the sagging joists back into flush and install some steel hangers and add more hardware. From there, determine how to sister the main 2x8's with something. (LVL, just another 2x8?) I guess thats where hiring the family contractor friend comes in.

I think a good amount of the isasue can be solved by just fixing the nailed joints that have separated over the years.
What are the plans for the basement room? Depending on the room dimensions, a full/partial wall shelving unit with TV screen mounted on that nice brick work? Some support under the corners will help, but it would be a shame to cover that brickwork.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MalibuDavyou5
The plans for the basement room is to leave it as is. The kicker is that that brickwork is the basement fireplace and putting posts in front of it voids the point. The basement fireplace shares the same chimney as the upstairs one, they are stacked over/under each other. Unfortunately both are out of operation and need the flues replaced. Thats down the road ($$$). Plan to put a gas insert in the bottom since hauling firewood downstairs is a pain.

Almost have to brace it and hide it under the ceiling otherwise it looks dumb. Maybe string an LVL the other way and put a post on each end but again, ish.
 
Cub Cadet back in one piece with the plow operational. I don't have the hydraulic cylinder for the power angle so I've just got power lift for now. It's fully plumbed for PA though. Still have to pull the deck off and maybe find some actual tires for the rear. But I can get it out of the garage now.

IMG_20201204_083844041_copy_2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20201204_094402153_copy_2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20201204_092104732_copy_2137x1603.jpg
IMG_20201204_094336469_HDR_copy_2137x1603.jpg


 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor