What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

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I tested again today and no oil. I removed both of the push rods and they are clean with perfect holes. So are both of the rockers. This is getting old. So what I did was to swap the entire rocker/pushrods/pivots/bolts assembly from that cylinder to the one next to it and vise-versa. Now they all flow oil just fine. Why? I don't know but I feel a lot better. Today I went to put the valve cover back on. The engine kit came with new grommets for the spacers. It turn out one spacer is missing. And of course they are obsolete and unobtainable. So I made one. The spacer is nothing more than a short piece of 3/8" tubing pressed into a washer. I took some 3/8" fuel line, cut off a piece, and pressed it into a washer with my bench vice. EZPZ. The grommet fits it perfectly. Then it got dark and really cold so tomorrow is another day. View attachment 132956View attachment 132957
Hardcore!! I love it!!!
 
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Digging the seam sealer out of my 84 TA. Finally. Everything else is on hold till it's sealed in primer.
Cool project! We need a non-g project build thread!
 
It is. My 1500 had 2 that took a couple minutes of idling to flow some oil. I left the valve covers off until I saw oil from all of them. It's also not out of the question to have a lifter refuse to flow.
When I did the cam swap in the 5.3 in my 08 Sierra, I eliminated the DoD lifters. I went with a full set of new "LS7" lifters. I soaked them in oil but lacked a proper LS oil priming tool. I cranked the engine with no spark plugs and it showed some oil pressure. When I fired it up, it had a lifter that refused to pump up for a long time. I cut it off in disgust. The next day I fired it up again and warmed it up. Same thing. I seriously contemplated selling it or setting it on fire. The third day it pumped up. 95k miles later it is fine.
 
I put the valve cover on today. But first I rotated the engine to #1 TDC so I could put the cam sensor back in. Then I cleaned the cover and schmeared the molded gasket with Ultra Black before installing it. I put Loktite blue on the bolts before I torqued them down. This engine is all buttoned up now. Just need to put the other endless crap back on so I can say a prayer and start it.
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Not today but this earlier this week I bought a replacement for my tired Cub Cadet lawn tractor. I bought another Cub Cadet although this one is just a little bit better than my old one. It's a Cub Cadet 3000 Series. For those unfamiliar with Cub Cadets, the 3000 Series isn't your typical homeowner-grade lawnmower that you could buy at Home Depot. These are heavy duty tractors that were built for ground engaging attachments. Pitted against new machines, they pretty comparable to a John Deere X700 series.

This one is a 2000 Cub Cadet 3235. It is shaft drive, has hydraulic deck lift, hydraulic power steering, a locking differential, a 23 HP Kohler Command V-Twin, and two auxiliary hydraulic spool valves to run whatever attachments and implements you want, including a factory 3 point hitch. Mower decks were sold separately and this one has a 54". The tractor weights about 1100 lbs with the deck on it, and you can add several hundred pounds in suitcase and wheel weights. I found this one at a dealer in Reading PA, about 4.5 hours away. So I hooked a trailer up to the Subaru and took a road trip. Whoever had this machine obviously took really good care of it, it's in excellent condition. It's got just under 700 hours, and looks like it's only been used to mow grass. I don't think it's ever even pulled a cart. This will be a lifetime machine, worth repairing as it wears.

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Done some research on performance upgrades for Ford CVPIs. Looks like the first and most basic upgrade for them is to perform a J-mod on the transmission. Basically, it firms and speeds up the shifting.
 
Done some research on performance upgrades for Ford CVPIs. Looks like the first and most basic upgrade for them is to perform a J-mod on the transmission. Basically, it firms and speeds up the shifting.

Next is a Cobra drivetrain. Cop cars aren't hot rods, more like a heavy duty package which is a good thing. Slightly less boaty than the normal ones. Edelbrock and Bilstein used to make shocks for them. You'd need cams and/or head porting to eek out more power. I don't think they left any in the tune.
 
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