What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

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Well after banging my head against the wall I decided to go with the FSM which does not say to oil the bolts. I made sure the threads were chased and clean. I put Permatex 52914 on the #11 bolt. We assembled the intake/exhaust to the head first and left the head pipe loose so it can be swung if needed.I put the two manifold O2 sensors on as they are so buried under there. The two lowers I removed because they were going to get smooshed going in. I think I can get them on later- not as bad as the uppers. I had my Grandson help me get the head on and torqued down. He had no idea what getting 110 ft lbs tight was like! Good learning experience. That #14 bolt at the back is one tough mother. My big torque wrench is 1/2" drive so you need a deep 12 point 1/2" drive 1/2" socket. I sure didn't have one on hand. I think I made 100 trips to the stores on this job. I also wanted to use stainless steel for the manifold/head pipe bolts. Turns out they are M10 x 1.50 and not available anywhere locally. I re-used the old bolts for now. View attachment 132810View attachment 132811
Did you Sawzall the crossmember out, or did it unbolt?
 
Bahh, you'd have eventually had oil if you just fired it up.
I was going to start another thread about that. Is it normal for some lifters to just dribble or be dry at first? Most were gushers like a 10 beer piss but that one was dry and still just dribbling now. "Sawzall the crossmember "What cross member?
 
I was going to start another thread about that. Is it normal for some lifters to just dribble or be dry at first? Most were gushers like a 10 beer piss but that one was dry and still just dribbling now. "Sawzall the crossmember "What cross member?
I worded that wrong, the top radiator support.
 
I was going to start another thread about that. Is it normal for some lifters to just dribble or be dry at first? Most were gushers like a 10 beer piss but that one was dry and still just dribbling now. "Sawzall the crossmember "What cross member?

did you blow air through the pushrods before you installed them
 
Yes, I removed that and left the entire AC system connected. I haven't busted any of it- yet. Steve I did blow them out, and when I removed the offending push rod and looked through it at the sun, it looked just like a freshly cleaned M-16 bore. I am going to double-check the size of the holes in the rods and rocker arms. Might be a manufacturing defect. Worst case I may switch around parts until they work better together.
 
found this on a Jeep forum about the 4.0 with a guy posting about #2 and #4 not oiling on a new rebuilt engine....

"Engine has to be running for lifters to pump oil correctly....don't worry about it. Also it can take a minute or two (literally) for oil to get to rockers when engine has sat overnight and is first started. I have timed mine at a full 3 minutes on a cold day! Sounds strange but there is always enough residual oil on rockers to adequately lube them"

from another forum....4.0

"I was revving it a bit, and even at higher RPM's , still no flow. BUT !
We found out the problem(or what appeared to be the problem at least).
When i ordered the lifters from rock auto, they sent me 4 extra for some reason(same lifters, just 4 extra).
I took one of the extras out of the bag and tried to work the plunger but it was froze up, stuck solid.
So i pulled the rocker arms off and tried to depress the plunger in the installed lifters, Zero movement.
I got an old push rod and gave the lifters a cpl whacks each with a deadblow and they freed right up.
Reinstalled & torqued rocker arms and viola! Oil flow through push rods is back, im happy as hell. "
 
YIKES! That seems extreme. When I put the lifters in I spun the oil pump with a drill. They all flooded fast. I will test them again.
 
I was going to start another thread about that. Is it normal for some lifters to just dribble or be dry at first? Most were gushers like a 10 beer piss but that one was dry and still just dribbling now. "Sawzall the crossmember "What cross member?

It is. My 1500 had 2 that took a couple minutes of idling to flow some oil. I left the valve covers off until I saw oil from all of them. It's also not out of the question to have a lifter refuse to flow.
 
I tested again today and no oil. I removed both of the push rods and they are clean with perfect holes. So are both of the rockers. This is getting old. So what I did was to swap the entire rocker/pushrods/pivots/bolts assembly from that cylinder to the one next to it and vise-versa. Now they all flow oil just fine. Why? I don't know but I feel a lot better. Today I went to put the valve cover back on. The engine kit came with new grommets for the spacers. It turns out one spacer is missing. And of course they are obsolete and unobtainable. So I made one. The spacer is nothing more than a short piece of 3/8" tubing pressed into a washer. I took some 3/8" fuel line, cut off a piece, and pressed it into a washer with my bench vice. EZPZ. The grommet fits it perfectly. Then it got dark and really cold so tomorrow is another day.
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