What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

[Supercharged111]

Another copy/paste from my LS1Tech thread.

1step closer. Here's a couple crappy pics of the shroud all nailed down with the hose feeding it from the foglight hole. Blame the sun.

You can see my super simple catch can mount in the second pic as the 2 lone riveted t bolt clamps. Incorporating the can with the shroud was going to present some unanticipated and very unique challenges. This was the easy effective way out. Next up I had to cut the original mount off of the can. I got this can for free off of my local Dyno shop last fall as the mount had broken. I chopped it off, smoothed it out, and will slather some silicone onto the case where it separated.

The next problem is that measley 3/8' NPT entry bung. Seems like a bit of a restriction compared to my proof of concept 5/8" hose into a bigass Coors can.

I had this 3/4' bit which was around .010" under the recommended drill size for a 1/2" NPT tap.

 

[Supercharged111]

Upon the first send, I realized this long forgotten bit was in need of help.

I'd say it took around 10 minutes of "porting" the existing bung and sending it slowly home with that oddball 3/4" bit.

I snagged a 3/4" 90 degree fitting from O Reilly today and some 3/4" hose. Tomorrow's objective is a 1/2" NPT to 3/4" barb fitting, adapters, hose, and a petcock for the remote drain of this thing and this car will be more refined than it ever has. Drain hose will be set up to accept a cheapass water bottle. I want set it and forget it simplicity here. I WILL need to drain this thing every day.

 

[Wageslave]

Upon the first send, I realized this long forgotten bit was in need of help.

I'd say it took around 10 minutes of "porting" the existing bung and sending it slowly home with that oddball 3/4" bit.

I snagged a 3/4" 90 degree fitting from O Reilly today and some 3/4" hose. Tomorrow's objective is a 1/2" NPT to 3/4" barb fitting, adapters, hose, and a petcock for the remote drain of this thing and this car will be more refined than it ever has. Drain hose will be set up to accept a cheapass water bottle. I want set it and forget it simplicity here. I WILL need to drain this thing every day.

You could pipe the drain line into one of the valve covers and use a Normally Open solenoid valve to close the drain off when the key is on, and have it open and drain back to the engine when the key is switched off. Have seen that done on a few 4 cylinder turbo builds and it seemed like it worked well.

 

[Supercharged111]

You could pipe the drain line into one of the valve covers and use a Normally Open solenoid valve to close the drain off when the key is on, and have it open and drain back to the engine when the key is switched off. Have seen that done on a few 4 cylinder turbo builds and it seemed like it worked well.

I've considered this as well. It's not high enough to drain back into a VC, but a bung welded into the oil pan would work well. Got a link to said solenoid? Or will any old vacuum switching valve work?

On second thought, maybe it's not such a great idea?

Catch can drain back to oil pan Do or Don't?? - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

Forced Induction - Catch can drain back to oil pan Do or Don't?? - Is there any reason I shouldn't run a drain back into my oil pan from the catch can. LSx 427 / Large frame T-6 turbo. First hand answers please, Thanks!...

ls1tech.com

I guaran-damn-tee mine wouldn't be 80% water.

 

[Wageslave]

I've considered this as well. It's not high enough to drain back into a VC, but a bung welded into the oil pan would work well. Got a link to said solenoid? Or will any old vacuum switching valve work?

On second thought, maybe it's not such a great idea?

Catch can drain back to oil pan Do or Don't?? - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

Forced Induction - Catch can drain back to oil pan Do or Don't?? - Is there any reason I shouldn't run a drain back into my oil pan from the catch can. LSx 427 / Large frame T-6 turbo. First hand answers please, Thanks!...

ls1tech.com

I guaran-damn-tee mine wouldn't be 80% water.

I guess that would be true. I was under the assumption you were blowing a lot out of the crankcase vent because of your bigger ring gaps from the forced induction, which would lead to a higher percentage of oil in the can. You might be able to heat the can with coolant to evaporate out the mayo and water, but it is probably not worth the effort.

 

[Supercharged111]

I guess that would be true. I was under the assumption you were blowing a lot out of the crankcase vent because of your bigger ring gaps from the forced induction, which would lead to a higher percentage of oil in the can. You might be able to heat the can with coolant to evaporate out the mayo and water, but it is probably not worth the effort.

Camaro is NA. My username is from an AE111 chassis Corolla that I supercharged in Japan. That said, both trucks do have Whipples and I have an LS 2.9L Kenne Bell on the shelf so I do like blowers.

 

[Supercharged111]

Another copy/paste, nothing significant just some tedious, piddly crap to get this nailed down to where it is.

I got the can installed today finally and the shroud trimmed to fit the hood. It came out a lot tighter than I ever dreamed it would.

I ended up dropping the hood repeatedly to leave witness marks in the top of the shroud so I knew where to trim. The can had that busted mount that I cut off but there was still a crack in the case that was going to leave a mess, so I slathered some silicone over the crack. There was also a 1/8" NPT hole to plug, but the only one I had stuck out really far. I ended up running a tap into it a little deeper so I could bottom it out, then cut the head off near flush so it wouldn't interfere with the shock tower. Here it is all snugged down, there's a 3/4" hose going into it now. I needed this installed to hit the Dyno due to its ability to impact power output..

I'm going to put a petcock up front here. I had to order it online, didn't see what I wanted locally. It's going to be clamped into place and the hoses cut to length to fit a cheap water bottle and minimize asspain/spillage. Here it is all set up now.

 

[81cutlass]

Growing up my dad always told me to stop poking at the rust. It never sunk in.

What started out as replacing the rear pads on the Rainier turned into a plating project on the frame.

Tried getting it aligned last week and the shop said the front ball joints were shot and they wouldn't do it. And the pads on the back are bad (i checked and yeah they were) so I ordered parts.

Changed pads. Should have left the rotor on, knocked the e brake shoe material off. Gotta get new ones of those... Come to think of it in the 6 years and 80k miles I have owned this damn thing I have never used the Ebrake.

The pads were not down to the squeelers but they couldn't have been more close. They were the most evenly worn set of pads I have ever seen.

The dust shield isn't doing much these days....

Moved to the drivers side, thought Id give loosening the UCA bolts a shot and soak them in penetrating oil since the drivers UCA snapped last fall and I booger welded it. Thought I might try swapping the arm too.

SCOPE CREEP!!!

Fudge.

Well theres no point putting a bolt back there

Poke poke

Fine. I will fix it.

I need to cut the outside of the UCA bracket off tomorrow, refab that and weld it in, weld the front of the plate to the solid(ish) part of the frame, and still replace the rear pads on the drivers side.

 

[Supercharged111]

Growing up my dad always told me to stop poking at the rust. It never sunk in.

What started out as replacing the rear pads on the Rainier turned into a plating project on the frame.

Tried getting it aligned last week and the shop said the front ball joints were shot and they wouldn't do it. And the pads on the back are bad (i checked and yeah they were) so I ordered parts.

Changed pads. Should have left the rotor on, knocked the e brake shoe material off. Gotta get new ones of those... Come to think of it in the 6 years and 80k miles I have owned this damn thing I have never used the Ebrake.

The pads were not down to the squeelers but they couldn't have been more close. They were the most evenly worn set of pads I have ever seen.

The dust shield isn't doing much these days....
View attachment 144539

Moved to the drivers side, thought Id give loosening the UCA bolts a shot and soak them in penetrating oil since the drivers UCA snapped last fall and I booger welded it. Thought I might try swapping the arm too.

SCOPE CREEP!!!

Fudge.
View attachment 144540

Well theres no point putting a bolt back there
View attachment 144541

View attachment 144542

Poke poke
View attachment 144543


Fine. I will fix it.
View attachment 144544

View attachment 144545

View attachment 144546

I need to cut the outside of the UCA bracket off tomorrow, refab that and weld it in, weld the front of the plate to the solid(ish) part of the frame, and still replace the rear pads on the drivers side.

Would now be a good time to upload rust free pics of the wife's 2007 Envoy of everything you just posted?

 

[Supercharged111]

Put 3 welds on this schedule 40 turbo LS manifold today for a friend. They look a lot better than the last guy that welded on this thing. For clarity, mine is a flux core 220V 180A Lincoln and the other guy supposedly had the same thing? We both maxxed out amperage, but my wire speed was much much lower and I seem to have gotten better penetration, though the bead really didn't come out the other side.

I did a double pass at the flange.

I couldn't understand why he questioned whether or not my welder had enough nut for the job until I saw what he was working with. His expectation with the rest of the welds was more in line with what I did. I don't claim to be a great welder, but I never end up redoing stuff. That said, of someone here has a better eye please tell me if there's anything I could have done better.