What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

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ck80

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Don't forget about the early 90s Chrysler cars, they had longitudinal mounted engines as well.
Yes, but it's still a 90s chrysler. You don't need to worry about hoses because it doesn't run for crap anyways.
 
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69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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Might as well toss in some pics since I wouldn't believe how much a few hoses and clamps can kick your azz myself unless I saw the pics. It wouldn't be so bad if I didn't give two craps, but after spending nearly $200 on new hoses and coolant, etc., it's gonna be done right with the right parts. Can you believe the friggin' intake bolts torque is only like 20 newton-meters? (about 15 ft lbs). I'm like, whuut?

Anyway, here's the pics. Note the front of the engine about 1/2 way down- a bypass hose runs right downtown behind where the intake sits.
2point0L Intake off.JPG



Top view of the RH heater hose connection to the engine right above the alternator (another great idea if the hose leaked). It also goes to the fluid reservoir on the passenger fenderwell. And goes all the way around to the rear of the engine. The best part is, it has to be snaked a certain way wrapping under everything and fitting into little clips along the way.
2point0L RH heater hose.JPG



The heater hoses- easiest connections ever. Twist lock plastic deals. There's a special little horseshoe tool to make it easy but you can get by with a screwdriver.
Focus heater hoses.JPG


There's that little beech of an upper hose to the radiator fitting. What you can't see is the dang fender flanges which are hidden by the wiring looms. There's one in front and one in back. I was saved because I took a chance on using my long reach 45 degree side bend needle nose pliers and was able to get to it, barely. SUCCESS! I zoomed on the picture, so it's not all that roomy as it appears. I could barely get the pliers in there enough to turn the clamp a little to get a better bite moving it to the top where it should have been.
2point0L upper coolant hose to rad no clearance.JPG



And DONE! 2 skinned knuckles, a couple of scrapes on the back of my hands, and that's about it. Didn't leave much DNA behind. I'm calling it a good, but major PITA event. Test drive went fine, no leaks, no error codes (must've plugged everything back in the right spots), no issues so far. Coolant gage right in the middle or just below, as it was before. Check the reservoir tomorrow and top off if needed, and I think I'll stick a fork in it.
2point0L hose replacement finished.JPG
 
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Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
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Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
Might as well toss in some pics since I wouldn't believe how much a few hoses and clamps can kick your azz myself unless I saw the pics. It wouldn't be so bad if I didn't give two craps, but after spending nearly $200 on new hoses and coolant, etc., it's gonna be done right with the right parts. Can you believe the friggin' intake bolts torque is only like 20 newton-meters? (about 15 ft lbs). I'm like, whuut?

Anyway, here's the pics. Note the front of the engine about 1/2 way down- a bypass hose runs right downtown behind where the intake sits.
View attachment 180564


Top view of the RH heater hose connection to the engine right above the alternator (another great idea if the hose leaked). It also goes to the fluid reservoir on the passenger fenderwell. And goes all the way around to the rear of the engine. The best part is, it has to be snaked a certain way wrapping under everything and fitting into little clips along the way.
View attachment 180565


The heater hoses- easiest connections ever. Twist lock plastic deals. There's a special little horseshoe tool to make it easy but you can get by with a screwdriver.
View attachment 180566

There's that little beech of an upper hose to the radiator fitting. What you can't see is the dang fender flanges which are hidden by the wiring looms. There's one in front and one in back. I was saved because I took a chance on using my long reach 45 degree side bend needle nose pliers and was able to get to it, barely. SUCCESS! I zoomed on the picture, so it's not all that roomy as it appears. I could barely get the pliers in there enough to turn the clamp a little to get a better bite moving it to the top where it should have been.
View attachment 180568


And DONE! 2 skinned knuckles, a couple of scrapes on the back of my hands, and that's about it. Didn't leave much DNA behind. I'm calling it a good, but major PITA event. Test drive went fine, no leaks, no error codes (must've plugged everything back in the right spots), no issues so far. Coolant gage right in the middle or just below, as it was before. Check the reservoir tomorrow and top off if needed, and I think I'll stick a fork in it.
View attachment 180567
That looked fun...
Letterkenny GIF by Crave
 

ck80

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Feb 18, 2014
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Might as well toss in some pics since I wouldn't believe how much a few hoses and clamps can kick your azz myself unless I saw the pics. It wouldn't be so bad if I didn't give two craps, but after spending nearly $200 on new hoses and coolant, etc., it's gonna be done right with the right parts. Can you believe the friggin' intake bolts torque is only like 20 newton-meters? (about 15 ft lbs). I'm like, whuut?

Anyway, here's the pics. Note the front of the engine about 1/2 way down- a bypass hose runs right downtown behind where the intake sits.
View attachment 180564


Top view of the RH heater hose connection to the engine right above the alternator (another great idea if the hose leaked). It also goes to the fluid reservoir on the passenger fenderwell. And goes all the way around to the rear of the engine. The best part is, it has to be snaked a certain way wrapping under everything and fitting into little clips along the way.
View attachment 180565


The heater hoses- easiest connections ever. Twist lock plastic deals. There's a special little horseshoe tool to make it easy but you can get by with a screwdriver.
View attachment 180566

There's that little beech of an upper hose to the radiator fitting. What you can't see is the dang fender flanges which are hidden by the wiring looms. There's one in front and one in back. I was saved because I took a chance on using my long reach 45 degree side bend needle nose pliers and was able to get to it, barely. SUCCESS! I zoomed on the picture, so it's not all that roomy as it appears. I could barely get the pliers in there enough to turn the clamp a little to get a better bite moving it to the top where it should have been.
View attachment 180568


And DONE! 2 skinned knuckles, a couple of scrapes on the back of my hands, and that's about it. Didn't leave much DNA behind. I'm calling it a good, but major PITA event. Test drive went fine, no leaks, no error codes (must've plugged everything back in the right spots), no issues so far. Coolant gage right in the middle or just below, as it was before. Check the reservoir tomorrow and top off if needed, and I think I'll stick a fork in it.
View attachment 180567
Job being the PITA it appears, your self professed lack of use of the car, and prices on things being what they are, I probably would've rolled the dice on listing it for sale for an extremely high number given the low miles instead of do the maintenance.
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
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Spring, Texas
Might as well toss in some pics since I wouldn't believe how much a few hoses and clamps can kick your azz myself unless I saw the pics. It wouldn't be so bad if I didn't give two craps, but after spending nearly $200 on new hoses and coolant, etc., it's gonna be done right with the right parts. Can you believe the friggin' intake bolts torque is only like 20 newton-meters? (about 15 ft lbs). I'm like, whuut?

Anyway, here's the pics. Note the front of the engine about 1/2 way down- a bypass hose runs right downtown behind where the intake sits.
View attachment 180564


Top view of the RH heater hose connection to the engine right above the alternator (another great idea if the hose leaked). It also goes to the fluid reservoir on the passenger fenderwell. And goes all the way around to the rear of the engine. The best part is, it has to be snaked a certain way wrapping under everything and fitting into little clips along the way.
View attachment 180565


The heater hoses- easiest connections ever. Twist lock plastic deals. There's a special little horseshoe tool to make it easy but you can get by with a screwdriver.
View attachment 180566

There's that little beech of an upper hose to the radiator fitting. What you can't see is the dang fender flanges which are hidden by the wiring looms. There's one in front and one in back. I was saved because I took a chance on using my long reach 45 degree side bend needle nose pliers and was able to get to it, barely. SUCCESS! I zoomed on the picture, so it's not all that roomy as it appears. I could barely get the pliers in there enough to turn the clamp a little to get a better bite moving it to the top where it should have been.
View attachment 180568


And DONE! 2 skinned knuckles, a couple of scrapes on the back of my hands, and that's about it. Didn't leave much DNA behind. I'm calling it a good, but major PITA event. Test drive went fine, no leaks, no error codes (must've plugged everything back in the right spots), no issues so far. Coolant gage right in the middle or just below, as it was before. Check the reservoir tomorrow and top off if needed, and I think I'll stick a fork in it.
View attachment 180567
Looks like a bad dream. My little sister had a 93 Lumina Z34 with the 3.4 DOHC. That car took the willingness to work on FWD cars out of me. It's part of the reason I sold my half interest in mom's '13 Impala and bought the Roadmaster. In retrospect, that LT1 isn't a picnic to work on either.
 
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spidereyes455

G-Body Guru
Mar 6, 2013
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I DROVE IT!!! For the first time in 17 years.
20210730_125725.jpg
 
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5spdCab

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Dec 29, 2019
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Job being the PITA it appears, your self professed lack of use of the car, and prices on things being what they are, I probably would've rolled the dice on listing it for sale for an extremely high number given the low miles instead of do the maintenance.
20/20 hindsight. Yeah, maybe a good idea, but it's done now, so keep it a few more years then sell it it to some teenager/20something who thinks he can hop it up and go against a rice burner.
 

MrSony

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Nov 15, 2014
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Des Moines, Iowa
Took apart the passenger rear door to try and figure out why the god damn mother **** the window wasn't working
motor is stripped out. has a gear with a triangle thing and it sits in the female triangle thing to spin. the plastic was ground to dust. new motors are $37. Apparently busted motors are a thing with the 67-71 t birds so once i fix them it'll be a selling point.

then im sure people will be clamoring for the car.

probably.
 
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5spdCab

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Dec 29, 2019
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Tukwila, Wa.
Sprayed the fuel tank straps with PB Blaster on the Pinto project so they can soak for a while. The goal for this weekend will be to replace the rear flex brake hose, bleed the brake system, install the rear most freeze plug on the engine, torque the intake/exhaust manifolds, bolt on the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate. Maybe do some tire research (13"), maybe attempt to drop the fuel tank, see if I can find a transmission jack.
 
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Wageslave

Royal Smart Person
Jan 25, 2017
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Looks like a bad dream. My little sister had a 93 Lumina Z34 with the 3.4 DOHC. That car took the willingness to work on FWD cars out of me. It's part of the reason I sold my half interest in mom's '13 Impala and bought the Roadmaster. In retrospect, that LT1 isn't a picnic to work on either.
Now there is a fun engine. God awful to work on, but fun when they run.
 
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