Changed the rear brakes so I could be ready for a cruise on Sunday, ended up just doing a cars n coffee benefit for a lady with cancer
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]
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Went after the driver's side frame rail on my S-10. The previous layers of frame protection turned out to be about as done as was the passenger side had been. Took a combination of one of my chipping hammers from the welding deck and a couple of scraper/putty knives to remove all the debris and crud down the basic metal and then had at it with the 4.5 and wire cup wheel. Blew that up mid session and had to swap it out for another one. Bought four of them because I knew from past experience with this job that it would take at least two or more to finish ripping off the remaining debris and rust dust that was clinging to the rail and expose any chippits of rust that needed to still be addressed with the hammer.
Got through that and by the day's fading light managed to apply a heavy coat of Rust Mort to all the now exposed surfaces and a few that were trying to hide. I started this exercise with a full new quart of the stuff and have about enough left to deal with the crossmembers and a few other wounds but not much more. Scored a new stainless steel dog dish (salad bowl??) at the supermarket and used it to hold just enough to get a few feet done and then clean it and refill it. Minimizes both the contamination of the 'Mort and the possibility of spill if the dish gets knocked over. Stuff is not cheap. Found a paint roller frame at the local big box auto supply store that was fitted with rollers that were intended for use on metal so that and a cheap paint brush got the actual slathering done.
Turned out that a normal combination wrench was too thick across the flats on the open end to properly get behind the cup wheel to back it off the spindle on the 4.5. Was at one of the local industrial supply shops and learned that they had Stanley Branded wrenches for cheap-cheap so scored a 15/16ths combo and proceeded to mill the sides of the open end thinner, using my other 4.5 and an 80 gr flap wheel; take a little and try it, take a little and try it, until it slid into position smoothly and easily. Clipped the box end off and rounded the stump to make it smooth. Instant new mini grinder tool to add to the tool box for them. What surprised me was that a brand name that used to come with a premium price tag and a high reputation for quality could now be had for about the price of a large coffee and two doughnuts at Dunkin'. WTF???
Nick
Got through that and by the day's fading light managed to apply a heavy coat of Rust Mort to all the now exposed surfaces and a few that were trying to hide. I started this exercise with a full new quart of the stuff and have about enough left to deal with the crossmembers and a few other wounds but not much more. Scored a new stainless steel dog dish (salad bowl??) at the supermarket and used it to hold just enough to get a few feet done and then clean it and refill it. Minimizes both the contamination of the 'Mort and the possibility of spill if the dish gets knocked over. Stuff is not cheap. Found a paint roller frame at the local big box auto supply store that was fitted with rollers that were intended for use on metal so that and a cheap paint brush got the actual slathering done.
Turned out that a normal combination wrench was too thick across the flats on the open end to properly get behind the cup wheel to back it off the spindle on the 4.5. Was at one of the local industrial supply shops and learned that they had Stanley Branded wrenches for cheap-cheap so scored a 15/16ths combo and proceeded to mill the sides of the open end thinner, using my other 4.5 and an 80 gr flap wheel; take a little and try it, take a little and try it, until it slid into position smoothly and easily. Clipped the box end off and rounded the stump to make it smooth. Instant new mini grinder tool to add to the tool box for them. What surprised me was that a brand name that used to come with a premium price tag and a high reputation for quality could now be had for about the price of a large coffee and two doughnuts at Dunkin'. WTF???
Nick
drained the water out of the truck and in doing so flexed the body so hard in the yard the drivers front fender shifted backwards and prevented the door from opening.
out comes the 3 foot prybar, and the wallet for a new door and fender. they were beyond saving anyway, but lord i did not expect that to happen.
also took the CH and H hangar off the qjet and put in some DP rods and I think either an M hangar. its rich af at WOT. its a bit better. i need to get fatter rods. All my smoggy qjets had CH rods or similar. but i dont care enough as mty new 390 will be in soon.
out comes the 3 foot prybar, and the wallet for a new door and fender. they were beyond saving anyway, but lord i did not expect that to happen.
also took the CH and H hangar off the qjet and put in some DP rods and I think either an M hangar. its rich af at WOT. its a bit better. i need to get fatter rods. All my smoggy qjets had CH rods or similar. but i dont care enough as mty new 390 will be in soon.
Both those rods are lean, compared to what I use. Almost every carb from the late 70's I took apart had CV secondary rods and mid alphabet hangers. I tried using a rod similar to the DP on a 307, actually pinged very badly. How is the primary side setup?
So my S-10 frame now has a coat of Krylon semi-gloss Black Anti-Rust laid down over the POR-15 and on any other available and at risk areas that I could reach. Today was supposed to be the day to shoot the Dupli-Color flat enamel top coat but the ambient temperature did not want to cooperate. Finally dug my old reliable 200V shop heater out of its hiding place and plugged it into the extension cable for the welder. I'll kick the breaker over tomorrow and see if it will cooperate. I need about 70 F. in the shop to get the shot to dry properly. if that happens then I can shoot the 3M undercoat on Saturday or Sunday and call the whole business done. Put the wheels back on and do an exhaust audio check and out it goes and back in comes the van. Getting too crisp in the mornings and my tests and tunes on the ECU can't properly account for the outside temps; still can't get the post start high idle warmup cycle to kick in like it used to. Now I am wondering again if going back to the stock GM advance weights was a good thing to do. Turns out that only certain weight numbers will fit the pivot pins on the advance plate. The weights I want aren't drilled to that pin size. from the factory. It may still come down to acquiring a new HEI distributor from Moroso or MSD. Asked about a Davis Unit but my local indie doesn't carry them. He does offer a "White Box" model at a decent price but uncertain pedigree.
Nick
Nick
Got to check out my Brother-in-law's sanitary 1970 Monte Carlo. The next thing you know we're talking about swapping in a 454 to create a car his son(s) can get into trouble in... our wives (sisters) were groaning.
All I know is I am going to be spinning wrenches on a classic in the coming months.
All I know is I am going to be spinning wrenches on a classic in the coming months.
This a number's matching 70 M/Carlo you're describing here, or just a decent daily driver?? Think a 454 version of the 70 Monte might have existed back then but that was about the last year that big blocks came with any kind of decent horsepower. By 71-72 the EPA had gotten its legal hatchets out and eviscerated the torque and horsepower ratings, all in the name of eradicating smog and the protecting the environment. All they did manage to protect was their federal budget at the expense of car owners.
Wanna really aggravate the wives? Go find another another 70 and do a frame off so the kids can get totally dirty and really get an education on the A Body series GM's. Learning by doing, just like the apprentices used to have to do when cars actually go worked on.
Nick
Wanna really aggravate the wives? Go find another another 70 and do a frame off so the kids can get totally dirty and really get an education on the A Body series GM's. Learning by doing, just like the apprentices used to have to do when cars actually go worked on.
Nick
It's a bit of a survivor with some basic mods. I am thinking it needs a turbo...
I think every car needs a turbo or blower now. Boost is so much fun!
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