What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]

Status
Not open for further replies.
Haven't you ever heard of 'replacing the spider' ??? People did them on late square Gen s10s all the time. Runs MUCH better with a new spider.
how bout this one?
little big but enough for supporting mods later.

While it is indeed an arachnid, it is neither spider nor scorpion. Nor camel related. It can run at 9.9mph.
camel-spider_thumb.jpg
 
how bout this one?
little big but enough for supporting mods later.

While it is indeed an arachnid, it is neither spider nor scorpion. Nor camel related. It can run at 9.9mph.
View attachment 167707
Be careful with aftermarket parts, you need to upgrade the rest of the system and sometimes they are far less durable than the NOS American built equivalents.
 
The chrome spears on the front doors on my brother's truck have been bubbled up for a long time....

View attachment 166688

This truck is in very nice shape. He has no plans to replace it so we are always looking to improve it. I found a pair of NOS spears. Yesterday morning I thought replacing the spears would be an easy, rewarding project. I didn't want the spears sitting around for 18 months. Boy was I wrong. We pulled the spear on the Driver's side door. We used dental floss to cut the old tape. The results were calamitous. A bunch of paint lifted.....
View attachment 166689

I've never had this happen before. The paint had failed under the spear. It woul just flake off with your finger nail. We spent about an hour cleaning off the old tape with adhesive remover, thinking we'd just cover this up with the new spear. Neither of us were really happy with that idea.

We ended up putting the truck in my storage, gutting the door, pulling it off the truck and taking it to the painter....

View attachment 166690

View attachment 166691

We put the truck on the battery tender and covered the cab with the car cover for the Roadmaster. The top of the door above the window had some clear issues so this will work out well. The painter is a collision painter at his day job so this is his specialty. He's going to blend the base in and reclear the door.

This is a little extreme but it's fixing it right. We're supposed to have the door back next weekend. That was not how I thought we'd spend our Saturday.
Sean and I finished up getting his truck back together yesterday. We got the door back from the painter last Sunday. We hung it on the truck, got the wiring harness fished back in and routed, got the window run channel and window back in it. The window was very slow going up and I found it to be quite unacceptable. We had replaced the motor several years ago and Sean said it was always slow. I didn't remember it that way but he knows the truck better, obviously. We broke off about 5:30 that day and I ordered parts.

Yesterday we started with putting in a new genuine GM outside window sweep/belt line molding. Then we replaced the entire window motor/regulator assembly. Sean put new 3M body molding tape on the Ventshade and got it installed. We had cleaned inside the window run channel as much as possible. After the Ventshade was installed, I wiped down the rest of the channel with some silicon spray on a microfiber. The window goes up and down quickly now. I would say it is like the truck was new.

We also did some heat gun work on the mirror where the triangle base mounts to the door. The top point was sticking out. We would heat the area up, Sean would apply a little pressure to the area, and then I'd cool it with compressed air. It worked great.

The painter just DA'd the area under the spear and then blended in some base. He cleared the entire outside of the door. It still has some small rock chips (under clear now), small door dings, etc. but now the failing clear above the window is fixed and with him just blending the base in the trouble area where the spear was, the door still matches the fender and the rear door. Except for the clear being new, you can't tell there's been paint work on the door. The painter is a collision guy at his day job so a repair like this is his bread and butter. He did a great job.

We're going to let the paint cure for about a month before we put the new spear on.

All better.......

DsDfwRpr-864358368.jpg
 
Sean and I finished up getting his truck back together yesterday. We got the door back from the painter last Sunday. We hung it on the truck, got the wiring harness fished back in and routed, got the window run channel and window back in it. The window was very slow going up and I found it to be quite unacceptable. We had replaced the motor several years ago and Sean said it was always slow. I didn't remember it that way but he knows the truck better, obviously. We broke off about 5:30 that day and I ordered parts.

Yesterday we started with putting in a new genuine GM outside window sweep/belt line molding. Then we replaced the entire window motor/regulator assembly. Sean put new 3M body molding tape on the Ventshade and got it installed. We had cleaned inside the window run channel as much as possible. After the Ventshade was installed, I wiped down the rest of the channel with some silicon spray on a microfiber. The window goes up and down quickly now. I would say it is like the truck was new.

We also did some heat gun work on the mirror where the triangle base mounts to the door. The top point was sticking out. We would heat the area up, Sean would apply a little pressure to the area, and then I'd cool it with compressed air. It worked great.

The painter just DA'd the area under the spear and then blended in some base. He cleared the entire outside of the door. It still has some small rock chips (under clear now), small door dings, etc. but now the failing clear above the window is fixed and with him just blending the base in the trouble area where the spear was, the door still matches the fender and the rear door. Except for the clear being new, you can't tell there's been paint work on the door. The painter is a collision guy at his day job so a repair like this is his bread and butter. He did a great job.

We're going to let the paint cure for about a month before we put the new spear on.

All better.......

View attachment 167750
I didn't notice you mentioned removing the passenger side spear to replace that one? :devilish:
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Texas82GP
I got a new to me Porsche 2.5L delivered to my house. In 2021, the junkyard comes to you.

My budgeted $2,500 944 became a $3,300 944 (the new motor was $800 delivered), but it was totally worth it, since the motor in the car had Chocolate Milk for oil (super common 944 problem)

20210130_110715.jpg


I just have to swap some parts off my old motor and put on new belts/water pump/gaskets and its ready to drop in. Bonus is it was running/driving and the Clutch is good. 944 Clutches are $600 on Rock Auto last time I checked.
 
Went nextdoor earlier to what kind of circle track shenanigans was going on. Neighbor has been modding this chassis with rear frame box tubing, X'd frame and rollbars. He also finished scaling the black "Monte" last week after doing some work to it. Pretty cool watching him work with basic tools and nothing fancy other than the welder, tubing bender, and notcher...
20210122_163103.jpg
20210130_125507.jpg
20210130_125518.jpg
20210122_162219.jpg
20210122_162230.jpg
 
I got a new to me Porsche 2.5L delivered to my house. In 2021, the junkyard comes to you.

My budgeted $2,500 944 became a $3,300 944 (the new motor was $800 delivered), but it was totally worth it, since the motor in the car had Chocolate Milk for oil (super common 944 problem)

View attachment 167756

I just have to swap some parts off my old motor and put on new belts/water pump/gaskets and its ready to drop in. Bonus is it was running/driving and the Clutch is good. 944 Clutches are $600 on Rock Auto last time I checked.
Are you going to do a preemptive milkshake prevention strike? What fails? The head gasket?
 
Are you going to do a preemptive milkshake prevention strike? What fails? The head gasket?

Porsche 944's oil cooler isn't in the radiator like normal cars. There is a heat exchanger in the engine block that used 2 rubber O-rings to keep the coolant out of the oil.

What would happen 15 years later should be obvious to anyone.

Needless to say, porsche 944 needing rod bearings is very common.
 
Porsche 944's oil cooler isn't in the radiator like normal cars. There is a heat exchanger in the engine block that used 2 rubber O-rings to keep the coolant out of the oil.

What would happen 15 years later should be obvious to anyone.

Needless to say, porsche 944 needing rod bearings is very common.

Their finicky engines were enough to keep me from considering Spec 944. That and lack of parts availability. Glad I didn't bite because that class is dead here now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fleming442
Today was borderline productive. The front door has sagged for years and leaked through the weatherstripping. Recently I decided to sink a few screws through the upper part of the frame to even it back up. It evened up, but also pulled too far away from the latch side and engagement wasn't very confidence inspiring. I popped the trim and found ZERO shims! Who TF installs a door like that?! Retards. So I shimmed it over and fudged the trim back on that I cracked in a couple places. I slathered my mistakes in silicone caulking and it looks the same as before. Next up was the knob and deadbolt. The knob key quit working and we'd been just using the garage door. I went to Lowe's for a knob and bolt, but all they had was a Schlage knob in the style/color I was after so nabbed a bolt off of Amazon. I had Ace rekey the bolt to match the knob today and got the deadbolt in. That's where things turned a little interesting. The bolt strike plate was just another knob strike plate. I think they did this to cover where they cracked the wood with a wood chisel making the original hole. That's all fine and well except their install blew.

PXL_20210131_201348616.jpg


They did secure it with 2 screws, I yoinked one before snapping this pic. the bolt came with this way beefier strike plate setup. Both are pictured for comparison.

PXL_20210131_204231348.jpg


Needless to say, the one I took out wasn't sunk down with boat anchors. They look like #12 screws and we're so long I was worried I'd send them into the side window next to the door. I popped the trim there without breaking anything to see if I had enough room and I did. So I popped my cherry using a wood chisel to make the hole taller and deeper to accommodate both the new plates. One for structure and one for looks.

PXL_20210131_200246653.jpg

PXL_20210201_012816306.jpg


I think I'll just mud in the gap and call it a day. I tried fudging the door by molesting the old striker plate to no avail.

PXL_20210201_013340367.jpg


I'm pretty pleased with how it came out. Especially when you figure I don't really know WTF I'm doing. I also decided to get off my *ss and replace all 5 smoke alarms. They all went full retard a week or so ago, of course and f'in 3AM, and I ripped them all out with prejudice. Even chucked one at the wall down the stairs and blew it to smithereens. Every time I'd unplug one, another would start chirping. NONE of them had dead batteries, but they were 20+ years old, so they got junked for new ones. They're the hardwired kind and holy crap were they easy to swap out. All but one was a sub 5 minute ordeal. Apparently the guy spraying the texture on the walls is not the same guy who installs the smoke alarms.

PXL_20210131_211013550.jpg


This has always been the problem child smoke alarm. I cleaned it with car tools: a wire wheel on a drill. All 5 now have green lights so hopefully they won't be POSs. Last but not least, I swapped the LF brake rotor out on my mom's Equinox. Like the other side, the lower slider was decently dry/rusty/stuck but I cleaned and greased what was there and sent it. This side wasn't as tight as the other, but a bit disheartening that the tech who did the pads earlier this year ignored that stuck slider. Lazy *ss m'fer. It's bad enough I didn't replace the stuff, but at least I don't call myself a professional.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor