What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]

Status
Not open for further replies.

Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
4,995
7,825
113
Colorado Springs, CO
Yup, 283 has the 3" stroke, 327 has the 4" bore. The way I went initially gets you a 307. which was a very weird motor. 327''s and 350's share the same bore dia. Knew it had to be one way or the other (or both) And I did qualify the proposition with an "if so blame my memory, not me. (LOL)



Nick

I only got it partly right too. The bore/stroke combo was all I could really remember.
 

g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
939
582
93
Spent time installing the new Pioneer stereo and tuning it to work with my subs today.

I think the Alpine had a small bit better SQ, but it’s really not that noticable. But at least it sounds awesome.

 

pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
9,314
15,833
113
Elderton, Pa
So is it the tires themselves that are too wide, or is it the backspace on the rim that is incorrect (too shallow) or does the seam forthe fender skin to outer wheel house half need to be shaved down a little?

And, if memory serves, if you stuff a 327 crank in a 283 block you get a 302. Surprise!

Oh, yeah, managed to get over to the yard and pick up an engine harness from a 2010 GM that has the EV6 harness plugs on it. Plan X from way out in left field is to either swap that whole circuit into the older harness or alternatively just do a plug swap to match the injectors but stay with the old harness as is.



Nick
That combo makes a 307. Those shared the same bore but not block as the 283 due to the journals going bigger in '68. It's the 302, 327, 350 that all share the 4" bore.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

mclellan83

Comic Book Super Hero
Jun 27, 2017
4,388
9,880
113
Pgh, PA
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 users

CopperNick

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
3,437
3,126
113
Canada
Nothing. Had just hit the head for some relief when the phone rang. Turned out to be an emergency call in request to cover the south route. South got trapped with no power and bad roads due to the snudge storm ( heavy wet snow in soggy clumps with potholes full of salty water = snudge or snow plus sludge.)



Nick
 
  • Dislike
Reactions: 1 users

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,663
13,632
113
Western MN
Took the evening off to help a buddy look and buy a new (old) skid steer. It needs some work but for the price it should do what he needs.

1976 international. 37hp of v4 fury!
PXL_20220414_234043946.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 4 users

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,759
1
12,352
113
Upstate NY
I always see you east coast and rust belt guys (Canadians too) posting these painful pics of rust. I realize that's it's inconvenient, but why not take a long weekend and fly south or west to drive something rust-free home? If the initial buy-in is about the same, wouldn't it be worth it just for the additional life of the body and frame?
x2^2

You've described the reason I bought a trailer. I've looked at two G's that were semi local and advertised as 'rust free'.

Yeah right.
 

scoti

Royal Smart Person
Sep 5, 2019
1,998
3,447
113
Texas
Last weekend through last nights efforts to have the Cabriolet ready for the Round-Up next weekend in Austin....

I finished up the mods on a new water pump housing so I could get it painted & rebuilt. We got it rebuilt & swapped on within nano-seconds of the paint drying. The mods now allow cleanly adding a temp sensor probe so it's not screaming 'LOOK @ ME'. The water pump that was on the car was not set-up correctly. That plus the radiator pressurizing (non-pressurized system) caused the water pump seals to fail & sprayed everything under the hood w/rusty water. The new water pump was dialed in better using an actual pulley to set the shaft depth vs what the instructions said to do when I did the other one. It should be good to go. Now I'll rebuild the other one again & mod it for the temp sender bung so we'll have a back-up (smart Model-A folks that actually drive their sh*t always carry selective spare parts).

Ignition set-up was installed last week (new distributor w/better electronics + Blaster II coil + actual plug wires vs the copper strap/original set-up) but the carb was way past time for rebuilding so it was hard to note improvement. With a replacement core sourced, I had to drill out the throttle shaft bore bushings on it for some bind free action & got that done @ work. The replacement was painted this week, assembled, installed then dialed in last night. It doesn't idle down as low as a stocker (these things can idle @ 100-200rpm) but it does have a lightened V8 flywheel/clutch set-up so it's as low as it can go & works right from idle to full throttle w/no fuel leaking/dripping. Yay.

While the young gun was finishing up the carb stuff on the bench I took the opportunity to remove as much of the rust staining as I could. It's not as clean as I wanted but it def looks better than rust splatter everywhere. With the carb rebuild & swap, the remaining tank to fuel line pieces were put in place as well. All that's left for the fuel system rebuild is the screen for the sediment bowl on the firewall. It will get done once we burn though the couple of gallons I put into the tank so we could dial things in.

New LED brake lights are installed, wired-up, & have power. We have a new brake light switch but haven't installed it yet (the original is hit/miss functionally but was causing a current draw).

I've been working on de-scaling the bead surfaces on the 16" 1935 wheels so the new tire beads will seal as good as possible (not going to run tubes). Two of the wheels were decent already; the other two not so much. A few hours w/the needle-scaler & I was impressed/surprised by the surface improvement. I should have them ready for tire mounting by mid-week.

I didn't get a pic of the parking lot surface but when the young-gun took it out around the block last night after the last round of carb adjustments, he laid a couple of black marks on the concrete leaving. Not bad for a semi-rebuild of a 92yr old rebuilt 4-banger. We need to replace the firewall insulation panel now that the fuel system is all rebuilt but a few more items crossed off the punch-list & the little drop-top keeps getting better!

I doubt we'll have time to rebuild the synchronized trans & get it installed before next Thursday. Junior will probably want to thrash on that (get it done & installed) cause he's young but this old guy would prefer to not do it that way. If it was just an R&R I might be willing but the different trans requires adapting things so I prefer a slower pace to ensure there are no surprises.

We still have a bunch of parts in a pile ready to go on for the suspension rebuild so we definitely won't have the suspension done for this event but hopefully it's the final one w/the 'Death-Wobble'.
 

Attachments

  • 20220414_194800.jpg
    20220414_194800.jpg
    60.2 KB · Views: 64
  • 20220414_194757.jpg
    20220414_194757.jpg
    52 KB · Views: 56
  • 20220414_194809.jpg
    20220414_194809.jpg
    29.8 KB · Views: 63
  • 20220414_194854.jpg
    20220414_194854.jpg
    56.2 KB · Views: 65
  • 20220414_194900.jpg
    20220414_194900.jpg
    66 KB · Views: 60
Last edited:
  • Like
  • Winner
Reactions: 6 users
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor