Well, to the industry 'clean fill' just means screened of large rocks and doesn't have crushed construction waste (concrete, asphalt milling, brokem brick, glass, contaminated soils, etc etc) mixed in as a small percentage which is a popular way to dispose of demolition waste.
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2022]
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So yes then, good to know. I already found it a new home, so we'll see what 2 yards does to the poor 1500 after work. I'm sure others have done worse.
Would maybe consider asking a local greenhouse or lawn and garden supplier about the pros and cons of using pressure treated timber for an above ground garden. Principal notion here is what type or chemical composition is the preservative that went into the wood and is it "friendly to humans if it happens to leach out of the timber and into the soil.
+1 on the mentioned uncertainty about the definition of "clean". While screening it does get most of the gross, i.e. , large sized effluvium, it tends to miss gravel and sand and glass and other smaller contaminants. It also does not account for organic contaminants such as weeds and weed seeds or biologicals such as larvae and eggs from various critters that might or might not enjoy chewing up a crop of fresh greenery.
As for the grass roots, the last time I did a pile of soil, I found a section of expanded metal mesh and built a 2x4 frame for it, laid that on a 4 pack of 8x8 blocking timbers and then used that as a means to extract the soil from the roots by dumping chunks of turf on the screen and Pounding the S**t out of it with a shovel!! The extracted soil fell through the mesh and the roots and shoots stayed behind. Kept on beating on them until all I had was bare root and then tossed that into a five gallon pail and from there over the fence at the end of the yard. After that it either decomposed into organic compost for the weeds in the lane or took root again and regrew. Grass of any kind is noted for being stubborn.
Oh, yeah, if you can a bale or two, find some peat moss and add that to your soil mix. The stuff acts as a water sponge to absorb and retain water in the soil. if you have a Menards near you, they carry all that stuff including processed cow and sheep s**t. All the processing does is to erase the smell. If you can tolerate the odor, maybe a trip to the local farmer's market might get you a vendor who has the stuff in bulk.
Nick
+1 on the mentioned uncertainty about the definition of "clean". While screening it does get most of the gross, i.e. , large sized effluvium, it tends to miss gravel and sand and glass and other smaller contaminants. It also does not account for organic contaminants such as weeds and weed seeds or biologicals such as larvae and eggs from various critters that might or might not enjoy chewing up a crop of fresh greenery.
As for the grass roots, the last time I did a pile of soil, I found a section of expanded metal mesh and built a 2x4 frame for it, laid that on a 4 pack of 8x8 blocking timbers and then used that as a means to extract the soil from the roots by dumping chunks of turf on the screen and Pounding the S**t out of it with a shovel!! The extracted soil fell through the mesh and the roots and shoots stayed behind. Kept on beating on them until all I had was bare root and then tossed that into a five gallon pail and from there over the fence at the end of the yard. After that it either decomposed into organic compost for the weeds in the lane or took root again and regrew. Grass of any kind is noted for being stubborn.
Oh, yeah, if you can a bale or two, find some peat moss and add that to your soil mix. The stuff acts as a water sponge to absorb and retain water in the soil. if you have a Menards near you, they carry all that stuff including processed cow and sheep s**t. All the processing does is to erase the smell. If you can tolerate the odor, maybe a trip to the local farmer's market might get you a vendor who has the stuff in bulk.
Nick
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You'll be able to tell as you're shoveling it in, but, one thing to watch out for is sometimes 'fill' soil is low on organics. That'll hurt some when it comes to water retention and nutrients.
Sometimes you're lucky and it's mostly topsoil. (Grass chunks are a good sign, although, add to weed issues) mixing in a bale of peat moss real good and a couple bags of composted cow manure goes a long way.
Just be aware when it comes to bagged manure you really need to read the bags, some aren't pure manure and again are already mixed with dirt.
I did some googling, and it seemed minimal. That said, we chose cedar for its rot resistance and lack of chemicals. I added the visqueen barrier to prevent contact between the wood and the soil, so the only possible leaching is going to be between the bottom of the studs and the existing clay back into the trimix. I think it'll be slim to none at the end of the day.
I did get 2 more yards, should have taken the extra big scoop dude offered, but I was scared of breaking my truck. 4000# is a lot for an old half ton frame.
But it did it. It was a little squishy, but nothing resembling sketchy. I was surprised once again. To my knowledge, I never got into the bump stops either.
Hindsight being what it is, I wish I'd taken the extra generous scoop.
I'm just a couple inches shy of where I want to be, story of my life. Next is to get some sort of hail protection up.
The stuff I got is called trimix; it has topsoil, manure, and compost (twigs and stuff) in it, but it was very fine and seems like it will suck with water retention. I suppose I could top off with more manure to help with that? As you can see in my last post, it's not quite as full as I wanted. I think there was something like a 16" requirement for one of more of what's getting planted.
Peat would be best for water retention. Usually it's a compressed bale you get for about $10, it's pressed like a giant brick and fluffy out when you break it up.
I've bought this:
It's a 3 cu ft plg, again like 9 or 10 bucks, and expands a little when mixed in.
Not much more accomplished mechanically but a few things knocked off the ‘list’ before heading to the 1st big show of the year (Round-Up; Austin TX). The plan was to have it lowered for the show. We got a main rear leaf to reverse the eyes on Monday. I got it all cleaned up Monday night & marked for the press procedure. We shifted the focus to getting the new suspension parts/pieces all staged for the rebuild. On Tuesday pre-assembly of some parts for the front told us the new bushings for the mounting shackles were not right for the parts combo. So no suspension rebuilding yet….
We determined the brake light switch was working Ok… We re-secured the flooring w/fresh (& proper) hardware & then we pulled it into the shop to get under the car (for the switch & removing a couple of parts) which was when it was noticed they were in fact working (well, they went off on their own). Apparently, it was just drag @ the pedal/wood causing the brake lights to stay on. So, the focus shifted to weight-loss & new shoes. We removed the dual spare wheels/tires + the mounts & yanked the rear luggage rack. Both features/options can easily be re-installed in the future if desired. Then the ‘May Pops’ were removed.
The temporary set-up looks sweet for what it is. I will not lie; the wheels are rough & I considered leaving them bare. But the fresh coat (as in one light coat) of rattle-can Satin Black Epoxy works well enough for the look. I sprayed the Epoxy mainly to seal the bead seating areas for the tires. I had barely enough left over so in a last-minute decision I put a light coat on them. It was enough color that there’s consistent coverage but it is less than one can of paint on all 4 wheels. Good enough for now anyway.
It should look on-point w/wider rear wheels & lowering….
We determined the brake light switch was working Ok… We re-secured the flooring w/fresh (& proper) hardware & then we pulled it into the shop to get under the car (for the switch & removing a couple of parts) which was when it was noticed they were in fact working (well, they went off on their own). Apparently, it was just drag @ the pedal/wood causing the brake lights to stay on. So, the focus shifted to weight-loss & new shoes. We removed the dual spare wheels/tires + the mounts & yanked the rear luggage rack. Both features/options can easily be re-installed in the future if desired. Then the ‘May Pops’ were removed.
The temporary set-up looks sweet for what it is. I will not lie; the wheels are rough & I considered leaving them bare. But the fresh coat (as in one light coat) of rattle-can Satin Black Epoxy works well enough for the look. I sprayed the Epoxy mainly to seal the bead seating areas for the tires. I had barely enough left over so in a last-minute decision I put a light coat on them. It was enough color that there’s consistent coverage but it is less than one can of paint on all 4 wheels. Good enough for now anyway.
It should look on-point w/wider rear wheels & lowering….
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Front half of the T56 assembled onto the Mainshaft.
This is C5 Corvette MN6 internals installed onto a GTO T56 Mainshaft. Direct install, zero issues. When complete with the whole built unit it'll essentially be a GTO T56 but with MN6 Gear Ratios. Or LS Fbody T56 with triple/double Synchros...😃
This is C5 Corvette MN6 internals installed onto a GTO T56 Mainshaft. Direct install, zero issues. When complete with the whole built unit it'll essentially be a GTO T56 but with MN6 Gear Ratios. Or LS Fbody T56 with triple/double Synchros...😃
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