What did you do to your non-G Body project today [2024 edition]

Young Buck, looking for some fall time action, and got permanently screwed. Sounds about like that section of I35 North just before the Midway Road exit. Came way too close to being part of a multi-vehicle train wreck because there was a road crew out and just finishing the clean up on yet another dumb-a** deer that insisted on thinking it had the right of way to cross an interstate whatever the amount of traffic. Say what you will about the automated systems being fitted into cars, the emergency braking system hauled me down from 70 to 10 in about 30 feet, just enough room to head for the shoulder and get there safely!! Left the guy behind me with a few more for himself. Just sat there for a few minutes and contemplated my mortality before pulliing back into traffic and moving on. Wish whoever was responsible would build a higher fence or a deeper ditch of have the both together to offer some kind of deterence to the four hooved idiots.


Nick
 
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Was gifted two small engines.
One is a tecumseh h50 or whatever and then there's the other one.

I've gotten the tecumseh to pop off three times, and after repairing a sheared crank key with an Allen wrench, I cannot for the life of me get it to run. I've cleaned the carb, filled the bowls, it has spark, I've tried to bottle feed it with a spray bottle, took the head off and cleaned everything, nothing. Even spinning the thing with a drill wouldn't help. Cleaning the points made no difference. I haven't set the gap yet.
I'm at a loss and about to junk it.
I'm a big engine guy, not a small engine guy.
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Does it have some kind of internal governor or flyball mechanism that comes with linkage that is attached to the carb? If the governor linkage is frozen, then the carb may not respond to input.

Did you take a peek at the idle adjustment screw? How many turns from bottom? Turn and a half ought to get you in the ball park.

Drop the fuel bowl and check for crud. if the mill has sat as you say, it is likely that the passages are full of crap and corrosion.

Also, check the kill switch. Yeah, i know that it might not be apparent but some of those engines had an internal knife style contact switch located inside the shroud that covers the carb and if the blades aren't apart with an air gap, then the engine won't fire and run. The factory provided a plastic "key" to stuff in between those those blades, but a skinny popsicle stick ought to work.

The other thing might be corrosion on the inner surface of the flywheel. That is where the magnets for the coil are situated and any long term layoff could allow surface rust to arise. You might be able to run a light in through the points inspection cover but the best way is to pull the flywheel and really check it out.

After all that, could just be a case of old school orneryness on the part of a neglected piece of equipment. It's being obstinate so you need to be more obstinate and persevere.


Nick
 
Made a change on my CC dually.....

The first 6yrs of 4-corner air ride was pretty uneventful w/the system working as it should. The last 2+ years though has seen issues for the front end of things. With that being said, recovery & repair is a major PITA as 'airing' up the front-end of this heavy arse truck (enough so it's drivable to get it where it needs to go) has been frustrating. Two attempts on repairs 'seemed' to get things back on track but appears it was only temporary as there was another failure. For me.... It was the last failure because of air-ride.

We're now back to coils up front so no more air-related issues. The rear has never been an issue & the bags are definitely a plus as far as the ride goes so it remains.
 

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Made a change on my CC dually.....

The first 6yrs of 4-corner air ride was pretty uneventful w/the system working as it should. The last 2+ years though has seen issues for the front end of things. With that being said, recovery & repair is a major PITA as 'airing' up the front-end of this heavy arse truck (enough so it's drivable to get it where it needs to go) has been frustrating. Two attempts on repairs 'seemed' to get things back on track but appears it was only temporary as there was another failure. For me.... It was the last failure because of air-ride.

We're now back to coils up front so no more air-related issues. The rear has never been an issue & the bags are definitely a plus as far as the ride goes so it remains.
Such a clean 3+3. I'm jelly.
 
Does it have some kind of internal governor or flyball mechanism that comes with linkage that is attached to the carb? If the governor linkage is frozen, then the carb may not respond to input.

Did you take a peek at the idle adjustment screw? How many turns from bottom? Turn and a half ought to get you in the ball park.

Drop the fuel bowl and check for crud. if the mill has sat as you say, it is likely that the passages are full of crap and corrosion.

Also, check the kill switch. Yeah, i know that it might not be apparent but some of those engines had an internal knife style contact switch located inside the shroud that covers the carb and if the blades aren't apart with an air gap, then the engine won't fire and run. The factory provided a plastic "key" to stuff in between those those blades, but a skinny popsicle stick ought to work.

The other thing might be corrosion on the inner surface of the flywheel. That is where the magnets for the coil are situated and any long term layoff could allow surface rust to arise. You might be able to run a light in through the points inspection cover but the best way is to pull the flywheel and really check it out.

After all that, could just be a case of old school orneryness on the part of a neglected piece of equipment. It's being obstinate so you need to be more obstinate and persevere.


Nick
It sheared the flywheel key, that would be cause for intermittent popping off I suppose. I attempted to fix it with an Allen wrench but the flywheel is a heavy sumbitch and rolled right over that too. I'm getting a new key this weekend and if I can't work that thing out then it's time to focus on this old Craftsman snow blower I also was gifted.
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Messed around with my Fathers 1950 Studebaker Champion. We did a petronix point conversion kit, set the timing, rebuilt the carb. Also replaced the LF wheel cylinder, fixed a brake pressure switch leak and bled the brakes. He swapped the fabbed gas tank and replaced it with a new OE replacement tank along with a sender. Also, pulled the old rigged exhaust off it for a new replacement system.baf7751d-74d2-4332-ae68-94424ca2940a.jpg
 
Stude, Uhm, Two door or more door? I am aware from your post that it is a legacy vehicle but any thoughts on a late model Avanti engine with the factory blower mounted on it? The Avantis were not the epitome of automotive beauty but they had some power to them. A little more power to get up and go with and something unique to boggle the minds of the mindless at the coffee breaks.



Nick
 
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