What to look for when purchasing?

[Coltrane]

Hey everyone! My original plan was to resurrect my 84 Monte SS (that was hit by a drunk driver years ago) and do a frame-off build, but the realization set in that the "new" frame I got and some other parts aren't going to cut it, and with the limited amount of time I have to work on things I'd rather go a different route. So here's my new plan! Buy an entire car, either running or not, and put my engine/trans/rear into it.

I'm actually going to be looking at a car this upcoming weekend that's almost identical to what mine was/is - 84 Monte SS, white, with blue interior. It's like looking into the past! If I end up with it, any interior pieces I need will work perfectly. So here's my question:

What should I really be looking at with a fine tooth comb when I am with the car in person? He says it's all stock and is running and driving (not important to my situation). Paint looks pretty good, just a tiny bit of rust by the rear window. He also said no accidents or major rust. I'm guessing I should be looking under the car at the floorpan, frame, suspension, etc. but is there any else specific I should take note of? Thank you so much for any info you have!

 

[fleming442]

Frame rust behind the rear wheels and around the body mounts. Body rust under the heaterbox/#2 body mount and bottoms of doors. If it's t-tops, you're probably screwed.

 

[UC645]

Frame rust behind the rear wheels and around the body mounts. Body rust under the heaterbox/#2 body mount and bottoms of doors. If it's t-tops, you're probably screwed.

Ditto on this. You’re most likely going to find the number 2 body bushings has pushed through the frame, it’s stupidly common.
Since the car you’re looking at is white, be meticulous when inspecting it, the solid colors were still lacquer paint and it will hide a lot of gremlins. The rear window rust is something you should take a real good look at, as that could be an indication that the window channel has started to rot out.

 

[pontiacgp]

I would keep the "new" frame and the other parts you have for the SS cause they might be useful down the road...

 

[Coltrane]

Thanks everyone for the recommendations! It's not a t-top car, so that's good. As far as all of my parts, yes I will be keeping most of them (at least the ones that weren't completely mangled in the wreck).

 

[ck80]

Part of what you want to look at/into depends how much of what's there you want, or would be willing to replace from what you have.

Obviously over spray on frame/underhood/wheelwells/frame areas is a good sign. If you find it front to back it's a repaint. BUT if you only find it in one particular area, that could be signs of collision repair to ask about and look more closely at.

A magnet if good to check for bondo under paint. Prevent scratches/seller objections with a piece of cheesecloth - thin enough not to interfere with magnet, thick enough to cushion and facilitate sliding.

Another test for bondo is tapping with your nails on the body. You can hear the difference. Ting vs thud.

Rustwise, near the window isn't the best sign. But let's start up front. Body mounts near the AC were covered. But look at the firewall, particularly around the wiper motor mount. Cars that sat will rust above the wiper motor. Likewise, rust stains coming from under the trim on the corners are signs of channel rust. Door hinge pillars can rust out, look for red/brown stains where the panels overlap as a sign of rust from inside out.
No landau top to worry about, but, check drip rail trim for cracked/missing sealer above/behind trim... cars do rust there is water gets in and builds up. If dew wipe seals on doors are heavily cracked, you're at risk for the untreated insides of the doors to rust, which are a big enough problem on their own. Bottom lips of doors rust, but, brown stains on the weep holes in the corners are a sign of rust inside. If you see debris -leaf pieces, pine straw, dirt - poking out of the hole expect there may be issues you'll be pulling panels to treat as well as get rid of the moisture trap. Pinch welds on rockers will show rust stains before rust issues. Floors are self explanatory, BUT, signs of water intrusion on passenger side could be sign the drain is plugged near the a/c. Rust near the rear window trim warns of rusting in the channel behind the trim. HOWEVER, rusty runoff can start damage on the rear body. Check the package tray - there's a 4" band between the trunk and window that rust starts underneath, often on the 45* seams where the panel skin meets. Rear frame rails are self explanatory, But, look at the rear wheelwells where they drop to the frame behind the tire. There's a overlap seam that rusts and when it does, your trunk isnt far behind. Lift the trunk carpet and look for red/orange/brown stains, especially where wheelwell meets the trunk floor. Same stains near the edge of floor towards quarter panel. Those are areas holes open, and, signs the rust is already there to be repaired.

None of that disqualifies a car if you find it, just an idea of where to find hidden issues, negotiate downwards appropriately, and know what you're getting into before stripping paint.

 

[Coltrane]

Wow - thank you so much for the very detailed write-up! I will definitely keep this thread handy when looking at it.
For reference, I’m going to attach a picture I have of the rear of the car showing the rust (of course it’s not a great pic, but it’s something!)

Part of what you want to look at/into depends how much of what's there you want, or would be willing to replace from what you have.

Obviously over spray on frame/underhood/wheelwells/frame areas is a good sign. If you find it front to back it's a repaint. BUT if you only find it in one particular area, that could be signs of collision repair to ask about and look more closely at.

A magnet if good to check for bondo under paint. Prevent scratches/seller objections with a piece of cheesecloth - thin enough not to interfere with magnet, thick enough to cushion and facilitate sliding.

Another test for bondo is tapping with your nails on the body. You can hear the difference. Ting vs thud.

Rustwise, near the window isn't the best sign. But let's start up front. Body mounts near the AC were covered. But look at the firewall, particularly around the wiper motor mount. Cars that sat will rust above the wiper motor. Likewise, rust stains coming from under the trim on the corners are signs of channel rust. Door hinge pillars can rust out, look for red/brown stains where the panels overlap as a sign of rust from inside out.
No landau top to worry about, but, check drip rail trim for cracked/missing sealer above/behind trim... cars do rust there is water gets in and builds up. If dew wipe seals on doors are heavily cracked, you're at risk for the untreated insides of the doors to rust, which are a big enough problem on their own. Bottom lips of doors rust, but, brown stains on the weep holes in the corners are a sign of rust inside. If you see debris -leaf pieces, pine straw, dirt - poking out of the hole expect there may be issues you'll be pulling panels to treat as well as get rid of the moisture trap. Pinch welds on rockers will show rust stains before rust issues. Floors are self explanatory, BUT, signs of water intrusion on passenger side could be sign the drain is plugged near the a/c. Rust near the rear window trim warns of rusting in the channel behind the trim. HOWEVER, rusty runoff can start damage on the rear body. Check the package tray - there's a 4" band between the trunk and window that rust starts underneath, often on the 45* seams where the panel skin meets. Rear frame rails are self explanatory, But, look at the rear wheelwells where they drop to the frame behind the tire. There's a overlap seam that rusts and when it does, your trunk isnt far behind. Lift the trunk carpet and look for red/orange/brown stains, especially where wheelwell meets the trunk floor. Same stains near the edge of floor towards quarter panel. Those are areas holes open, and, signs the rust is already there to be repaired.

None of that disqualifies a car if you find it, just an idea of where to find hidden issues, negotiate downwards appropriately, and know what you're getting into before stripping paint.

 

[ck80]

Wow - thank you so much for the very detailed write-up! I will definitely keep this thread handy when looking at it.
For reference, I’m going to attach a picture I have of the rear of the car showing the rust (of course it’s not a great pic, but it’s something!) View attachment 152223

You're quite welcome. I owned a couple hundred of these gbodies through the years, many of which were choped for parts which shows lots of common problem areas. Especially considerin I did it in New England where the salt helped things along.

That rust at the top middle is concerning. It *looks* to have pitted into the metal, not just worn paint with surface corrosion. Expect to remove the upper interior trim, to remove the headliner, rear window trim, remove the glass, clean out the old urethane sealant, scrape the channel, possibly weld a patch depending on what's underneath, then repaint, reseal window, and reassemble to prevent water leaks and rot in the future.

Any 40 year old car has issues somewhere. Don't let it scare you entirely if everything else is good and the price is right.

Edit: i also see it poking out on the driver side a couple inches from the edge, just not as far. Definitely plan to remove the rear window to repair. When looking at the car lean or climb into the trunk and look at the underside of the rear deck where the speakers hang.

The window sealant dries and degrades over time. Could be as simple as that happening and allowing water to sit between the sealant and the metal.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Besides rust issues, look for Jerry rigging and ad hoc repairs, butchered wiring, rotted or mangled vacuum hoses, missing or poorly deleted emissions and computer parts, and mismatching components such as non computer carb with a computer dist. Also look for reman sticker on the carb as poorly remanufactured carbs can cause problems. POs of G bodies love to do bizarre changes to them, then pass on the surprises to buyers.

 

[Coltrane]

Thanks again! This car is definitely the nicest I've seen in the price range I'm looking at - so many cars that are REALLY beat down are being listed for $5k+

I'm not able to go see it until this upcoming Sunday (and it's a pretty far drive), so I'll keep doing my research in the meantime to really make sure.

You're quite welcome. I owned a couple hundred of these gbodies through the years, many of which were choped for parts which shows lots of common problem areas. Especially considerin I did it in New England where the salt helped things along.

That rust at the top middle is concerning. It *looks* to have pitted into the metal, not just worn paint with surface corrosion. Expect to remove the upper interior trim, to remove the headliner, rear window trim, remove the glass, clean out the old urethane sealant, scrape the channel, possibly weld a patch depending on what's underneath, then repaint, reseal window, and reassemble to prevent water leaks and rot in the future.

Any 40 year old car has issues somewhere. Don't let it scare you entirely if everything else is good and the price is right.

Edit: i also see it poking out on the driver side a couple inches from the edge, just not as far. Definitely plan to remove the rear window to repair. When looking at the car lean or climb into the trunk and look at the underside of the rear deck where the speakers hang.

The window sealant dries and degrades over time. Could be as simple as that happening and allowing water to sit between the sealant and the metal.