Where to start? First things first.

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

what i'd do is carefully follow the directions for setting the base timing and tuning the carb first. hopefully that'll take care of the black crap on the plugs and possibly the exhaust. it's hard to tell without seeing it myself but hey tuning is free! always tune first. plus this waqy you can drive it for awhile 'till you have evrything together for an engine rebuild/swap. put a 350ci (any GM company) and that thing will move and the price to rebuild a v8 isn't much more than a v6.

So you think adjusting the carb and base timing will help with the oil and gas on the plugs? hmmmm. And with the carb adjustments. If its running decent now am I making adjustments until it boggs out, then take it back a hair? Somthing like that? How do I know when the carb is set perfect? Sound?

 

[megaladon6]

carefully follow the directions for setting the base timing and tuning the carb

buy the manual for your car and a vacuum gauge and timing light. or borrow the tools from someone. then follow the procedure in the book step by step.

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

I was going to do an oil change tomorrow. Im wondering how long it will take for the oil to get black again. And would it be stupid to do so since it will just leak again and foul the plugs? That is my problem that is major to me. The mixed gas and oil getting to the plugs and the mixing period. wtf

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

To me, the two problems are separate-the fuel and oil are for different reasons. I would think that the gas on the plugs is due to a carb that is running over rich (if it is all 6 plugs). This can be due to a number of factors such as the TPS sensor being broken or misadjusted, O2 sensor reading being wrong, or a bad MC Solenoid. It may even be a idle mixture adjustment problem. The oil could be bad rings, valve guides or bad valve stem seals. It may even be a improperly operating PCV system. Check to see if the breather filter is plugged or the PCV valve is operating wrong. A compression check is easy to do and the tool is under $20. You will use it more than once, so it is not a bad investment. To do a compression test (According to my Nissan's FSM): Pull all of the plugs out at the same time. Next, unplug the TPS sensor (to keep it from flooding the engine) and the coil power wire. Then, screw the tester into the first cylinder, hold the gas pedal down to the floor and crank the engine. Record the number on a sheet of paper with which cyl it is and do the next one. Do all of them and record them then check for any significant variance. I would expect the spec to be around 140-160psi, but it may be lower since it is a low compression engine.

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

Man i dont like the chilton book. I think hanes is better because the directions are more direct. Chiltons had alot of sketches n sh*t. I hate buying a used project car and just dont know where to start. I mean there hoses disconnected everywhere and what not. Plugged with bolts n sh*t. I mean why!? I need to get an emissions so I can register the vehicle. I wish I could find someone who can cheat me a emissions test! 😀 And as far as all the plugs go, yes each one has oil on them. Does anyone knopw how long the car might run with the rings and valves shot?

 

[megaladon6]

unplug the TPS sensor (to keep it from flooding the engine) and the coil power wire.
would expect the spec to be around 140-160psi, but it may be lower since it is a low compression engine.

it's a carb not an EFI, unplugging th TPS won't do a thing. i'd hope for 100+psi but no matter what he gets it won't tell him what's wrong unless he's experienced at reading a compression tester.
tune the carb and timing so that you have eliminated one variable. (sometimes gas on a plug breaks down from the heat and gets sludgy--it then looks like oil) if they still get fouled after that then it's rings or valve seals. it doesn't cost money to tune!!!! the engine needs to run as well as possible before you can diagnose anything. otherwise you don't know whats causing what.
also: does your oil smell like fuel at all?

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

To answer one of your questions "Yes" It does smell like nothing but fuel, the plugs that is. Today I changed the oil and filter. Everytime I fire it up it takes one try. Even with the plugs covered with carbon and fuel. Anyway I drove it around the storage area again and floored it. It only goes maybe 20mph and it just sputters the whole time while accelerating. It doesnt have any pickup or
go into next gear with more power than the first. I actually havent driven it long distance to go into second gear yet. We'll im pretty sure the engine is ****ed up inside real good. I was going to go get it registered tomorrow and was hoping to drive it but i dont want it to die on me, not that it has so far except when I was backing up and I stomped on the gas real quick it will bogg out. It fired right up after but sounded a little flooded. So any more suggestions. Why does it sputter and not have no pickup what so ever? It just putts with it floored going about 20 mph lol.

 

[megaladon6]

before trying to diagnose a problem, make it run as well as possible! if the carb is not tuned right it won't run right.
there are a lot of possibilities, bad tune, bad M/C solenoid, ECT, TPS, timing, ECM...

did the oil smell like gas?

 

[JuuCeD82ReGaL]

before trying to diagnose a problem, make it run as well as possible! if the carb is not tuned right it won't run right.
there are a lot of possibilities, bad tune, bad M/C solenoid, ECT, TPS, timing, ECM...

did the oil smell like gas?

Yes the oil smelt like nothing but gas. After oil change not as bad if at all

 

[1988CSC]

Mega's 100% correct. You have to fix the cause, not the symptoms. Eliminate what it could be, to lead you to what it is.

After the carb is set-up, Id check the vacum. From my experience, they are terrible to diagnos.