Wooo... new ride! Pictures added

[Bonnewagon]

Nice bird. I have a 77'. You may be able to get at it without yanking the motor. If you have a clear shot from below you can knock the plug loose with a long screwdriver and hammer. Then drive in a new one or use an expandable one. Might have to remove that side's exhaust manifold, which may or may not be as easy as yanking the motor if any bolts snap.

 

[kornball426]

Yeah it's not going to be possible to get at the plug without a car lift (even then it would be iffy)... which I do not have. And I think it's likely bolts will snap in the headers... But I'm trying to think positive not negative. :lol: Really the only option is pull the motor, and see if that's really the problem... And if I'm going to replace one plug I should probably just replace all of them to avoid this problem in the future.

And Black Sheep... The floors are pretty solid but not great, I need to replace or patch the passenger side rear floor board it's got about a silver dollar sized hole through it. Otherwise it's solid structurally, the only other rust is in the outer rocker panels which I wouldn't think would make that much difference.

I think I'm going to put in the sub frame connectors and roll bar, just a roof hoop and hoop to rear frame connectors. Since it's going to be a 99% street car/hot rod with full interior and maybe see the track very very rarely, I don't want to compromise the the ease of getting in and out of the car. If the 355 Chevy in the car really has a shot block I'll let you know about that 455. Supposedly, the engine has a forged eagle crank and H-beam rods, along with the nice top end which is clearly visible so I know it's true haha... So I might just find another 4 bolt block and put all the parts I have already on hand on it. But how much you want for the 455, and is it a ready to run motor or need a total overhaul? You can PM me if you want to keep all that sort of secret.

 

[youngdeezy]

the potential for that car is outrageous, dont put the bird on the hood if your sticking with that hood, you gotta get the shaker hood if u want the bird... black white letter tires shes gorgeous good luck with her

smart man but i like 99 TA's

 

[tc1959]

nice car! thats the spoiler i wanna make for my satty.

Is that 200 MPH blue tape ? 8)

 

[79elky454ss]

Think I'll use brass plugs when I replace them, or stainless steel if they make them. Anyone have a suggestion, I don't think the freeze plugs are even accessible without taking the motor out at least partially.

They make a rubber onehttp://www.midwayautosupply.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=12799&affiliateid=10050 if you can't get a straight shot to drive one in. just tighten the nut and done.

 

[Bonnewagon]

If you pull the motor, then you are obligated to do all sorts of things. Like is the rear main leaking? Timing cover seal? What kind of oil pump and is it giving you good pressure? Headers will probably need to come off no matter what. Of course a broken bolt would be easier to deal with out of the car but if they come off without any drama, no need to pull motor. Also check the rear frame rails back by the bumper and where the springs attach. Lots of rust starts there.

 

[kornball426]

No oil leaks anywhere, and it runs 35-40psi at idle cold, and 25-30 warmed up (idles at around 750 rpm)... And 65+ on the gas warm, almost 80 cold. I kind of want to pull the motor... It's been a long time. Car is off the road minimum of 5 months and the engine bay could use some cleaning up anyway, and since I need to take the hood off to re-align it that's not an issue either.

I thought about using an expandable plug, but I dunno... We'll see when I get around to it. Probably have the motor out over the weekend, and take it to work in the back of my truck and leave it there for the winter. I think I'll pull the oil pan, see if it really has the internals the guy said it has... And pull one of the main caps and look at the condition of the bearings. Plus, should make moving the car around a little bit easier, I think my neighbor is going to let me use his garage over the winter, which is fully equipped with all kinds of air tool goodies and body work tools that I don't have. Different styles of hammers and dolly's, and an amazing array of paint guns, sanders, grinders, wizzer wheels, sheet metal sheers, you name it. And a big like 80 gallon air compressor. :wink:

I pulled the radiator, trans cooler, and fan... And all the engine accessories before work this morning. Tomorrow morning I want to unbolt the headers and remove the carb. I'm not sure if I want to pull the motor AND trans, or just the motor... I think I may be forced to pull the trans there's not much access to the bell housing, it's probably easier to just unbolt the transmission mount and remove the drive shaft. But that's Friday morning's goal is have the cherry picker hooked up and get the motor out or at least ready to go for Saturday.

 

[kornball426]

Oh, and thanks I'll check those again more closely. Although I've been all over the car searching for all the rust I can find. But it seems to be isolated to the passenger side lower quarter, passenger side rear floor, and the rocker panels. Like I said, it's a solid car... But I'll look at it again tomorrow more closely. I hope it's not... but I guess that would be an excuse to save up and back half, coil overs, four link, and cage it! :lol:

 

[Black Sheep]

Rockers are also very important. Remember, with a unibody car, everything is attached to everything else. One piece fails and it compromises the whole structure.

The 455 I got is supposed to be rebuilt, I might pull the heads and oilpan this weekend to make sure. Wanting $700 for it. There's an ad in the for sale section.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Definitly easier to pull motor/trans together, especially with the hood off. Just use an old driveshaft yoke to plug the tailhousing so oil won't drench you. Only problem is that the F bodies sit low to the ground and the wheels part of the engine hoist hit the bottoms of the lower control arms. I neat trick is to get 2 long thick planks and roll the front wheels onto them. Then the hoist can roll under easilly. Another way is to mount 2 big snow tires (28 or 29") up front to raise the front an inch or more. As long as it's coming out might as well do all the freeze plugs and be done with it.