work list

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well now its raining...great. i did forget to mention i alos did remove the fusebox from the fire wall and the whire loom on the engine side of the firewall. all seemed well there, except thet part where the PO painted all the wires black... :blam: so i do have replacements for that but i think there all wrong. we'll see...
 
have you tested the orange wire going to the brake lite switch to make sure it is hot?...if it is jump it to the white wire and the brake lites should be on....it could your switch is defective
 
ok well today i took the day off of werk and i took the gauge cluster out and took a bunch of pics. i'll try and explain them as we go:

ok in this pic ignore the black wire and the red one, i put them in for the rad fan switch.
534310_3624669381051_1403516914_33483282_908689863_n.jpg


this black box is behind the light switch, under the dash wtf is this?
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under the steering column:
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more under column:
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whats this ontop of the column, and ignore the thick red wire:
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above the column in the dash:
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this is the connection for the printed circuit:
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this is under the column too ignore this wires held together with the green zip-tie, that is for a tach thats not there anymore:
546906_3624648660533_1403516914_33483260_859523422_n.jpg


here a bunch of stuff that was behind the radio:
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idk what these are ether:
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I don't know all of them But starting from the top down #2 black box on HL switch is a tone generator, supposed to make annoying noise If you forget to turn off Head lights.( most of them don't work anymore)
#6 Neutral safety/backup light switch.( Bracket with round hole next to switch is for either stop lamp switch or Cruse control dump switch)
#7 top of column Ignition Switch
#18 dome light dimmer module,My El C dims the dome light after a few seconds of turning on the Ignition key.
All the connectors in the radio hole are for the factory radio or the Ac /heater controll head.
I am sure someone else will chime in here.
 
ok well thats alot right there, thanx man. well i guess ill have to wait till the weekend or if i wakeup earlier than 2pm to get in there and follow the orange wire to its source.
 
ok the orange wire has current, but when i hook it up to the white, i dont get anything, so time to follow the white wire...
 
Damn man, that's quite the project you got going there! I live close by, but I'm not any help when it comes to electrical like that.

I didn't follow the whole thread, what's your goal? Are you working on getting the original gauges/dash working?
 
the goal is to get the brake lights werkin so i can drive it as an almost everyday car and be legal and not get pulled over every other day.

YaY 40 pages.... 8)
 
if you can rebuild a transmission brake lites shouldn't be a problem for you.....make sure you have power going into the brake lite switch on the orange wire...once you have power with the switch button extended you should have power on the white wire...if you don't the switch is fukd...is the switch is good and your brake lites aren't on then check the wire harness on the left side of the fuse box and you should have power on the wire that feeds the brake lites in the back, it's either pink or light blue, and if you have power there then check for power at the lite socket and if you have no power then there is a fault in the line from the fuse box or if there is power the sockets or the lites are bad...
 
Damn man, this thread started 2 years ago and you're still working on getting the brake lights working? I don't have many suggestions, just maybe get a tone generator/multimeter and tone out all of your wires manually. Just start at the brake lights and move forward or something

Do you have a wiring diagram and all that for your model/year car? Does anyone suggest he rewire to get the brake lights working? I've never hacked into a power system, but maybe it's not that many wires just for the brakes?
 
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