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Battery? Alternator? Multimeter? Help!!

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80ELCAMINOFLAKE

80ELCAMINOFLAKE

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 2, 2010
2,685
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California So Cal
Ok so i have been havig this problem with my charging system, upgrade to a cs130 with ES82 with resistor for more amp to run system, my amps, stereo lights, hids, etc

I found out how to use a multi meter and results are unknown, i tried what my alt guy told me and still the same.. Watch vid and tell me what u think..

[youtube]FbG1YT1vj1E[/youtube]
 
Santos,
The alternator should be putting out around 14.5 volts. It's obviously not energizing the alternator, which equates to not charging your battery. Have you changed anything in your dash? Do you still have the oil pressure warning light going to the sender? The reason I ask is that I've had the same problem. My brown energizer lead went open, and charge light stopped working. I temporarily connected a jumper wire from my oil pressure warning light to the energizer lead on the alternator.
It actually started charging. Don't cut the plug.
You can check the ohms coming from the charge wire. Do a search on the site, and you'll find a whole thread on the subject.
It will cover checking the lead for resistance.

BTW, IIRC, I ran a new wire to replace the brown lead that tested open. I think I connected to a switched +12 volt source on the fuse box and used a resistor (from Radio Shack) inline. I didn't buy the adapter plug. I didn't cut any wires. If anything, I used connectors.

I'll almost guarantee that the alternator is not being energized, especially that you said it tested okay.
 
Longroof79 said:
Santos,
The alternator should be putting out around 14.5 volts. It's obviously not energizing the alternator, which equates to not charging your battery. Have you changed anything in your dash? Do you still have the oil pressure warning light going to the sender? The reason I ask is that I've had the same problem. My brown energizer lead went open, and charge light stopped working. I temporarily connected a jumper wire from my oil pressure warning light to the energizer lead on the alternator.
It actually started charging. Don't cut the plug.
You can check the ohms coming from the charge wire. Do a search on the site, and you'll find a whole thread on the subject.
It will cover checking the lead for resistance.

BTW, IIRC, I ran a new wire to replace the brown lead that tested open. I think I connected to a switched +12 volt source on the fuse box and used a resistor (from Radio Shack) inline. I didn't buy the adapter plug. I didn't cut any wires. If anything, I used connectors.

I'll almost guarantee that the alternator is not being energized, especially that you said it tested okay.
Click to expand...

No factory oil presure gauge, all after market gauges... The brown wire i do see but that goes inside the fire wall i guess to the dash, so where does that brown wire go? Im confused.. Member wires are a nightmare for me..
 
80ELCAMINOFLAKE said:
.
Click to expand...
No factory oil presure gauge, all after market gauges... The brown wire i do see but that goes inside the fire wall i guess to the dash, so where does that brown wire go? Im confused.. Member wires are a nightmare for me..[/quote]

I didn't mean factory oil pressure gauge. I actually meant the wire that comes off of the sending unit near the distributor for the oil pressure warning light. It should be a green wire.
I used it as a temporary test connection going to the "L" lead of the alternator, or where your white wire on the plug goes to.
It excites the alternator like the original charge light does.
It worked on mine when the alternator wasn't putting out.

The brown wire connects into the plug behind the gauge cluster...which then connects to the gen. warning light in the factory gauge.
Most newer G-body cars did not have an alternator warning light.
 
Longroog79:

Ohhhh i see what ur talking about the green oil wire thats usually on the side of block to swith on the oil pressure light...

Ok ok so do i connect that one to the "s" or the "l" in the alternator.. Going out aide to see if i can findd it.. BRB lol
 
I looked at the time and I thought you were working pretty late, it's 10:26 here but for you in California it's only 7:26...and probably still sunny... :|
 
pontiacgp said:
I looked at the time and I thought you were working pretty late, it's 10:26 here but for you in California it's only 7:26...and probably still sunny... :|
Click to expand...


Lol no its dark know and wife came out to see what the hell im doing... Ok so found the green wire.. So it disconnect my stock connec tor and go direct to alt? L or S ?
 
80ELCAMINOFLAKE said:
pontiacgp said:
I looked at the time and I thought you were working pretty late, it's 10:26 here but for you in California it's only 7:26...and probably still sunny... :|
Click to expand...


Lol no its dark know and wife came out to see what the hell im doing... Ok so found the green wire.. So it disconnect my stock connector and go direct to alt? L or S ?
Click to expand...

Connect a wire between that connection and where the "L" lead goes to the alternator. You did once have the oil pressure warning light, didn't you?
It should simulate the alternator light, which should excite your alternator to charge.
It's later out here, or I would take a few pictures to show you what I mean.
 
Longroof79:

Ok so i connected the green wire to the "L" and then the "S" just to see if there was a differnce, i disconnected the CI connector ES82 and ran the green wire stright to the alt, am i suppose to see a difference right a way in the multimeter? Cause i didnt , i did the same process and cranked the motor and it dropped to 11.96 lower than before... So is that right? Pics would be nice 🙂 lol
 
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