Sweet. A local engine builder said he used to stack washers under the pressure plate to dial in clutch slippage for the launch.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
I have KYB Gas adjusts I put on new in 2017. The front is too floppy and it's like riding a dolphin shifting gears. I think the rears are too soft also.
I have a set of used comp engineering adjustables I found of FB this fall that are sitting on the shelf that have never been put on.
I plan to go with some Viking adjustable. One of the local guys that does drag weekend works at Viking (they are in town) and said he could hook me up with a discount. He is actually the guy that gave Dad and I a ride home when I blew my diff up in Illinois last year.
I've heard of bad experiences with driving with the 3 or 4 position adjustables up front - but it's all heresay on my part.
I just ordered a set of Bilstein B6's for the front of mine only because I know they worked very well on the street with my son's car. His car was about the same weight as mine on the nose - T6 and piping up there. But yours must be similar with the LSA and additional water for it. Maybe not the same, but pretty close/similar.
I want to buy good, double adjustables for the rear, but krikies - they are stupid money. If I bought a set and they rode like *ss, then I'd be ready to kill myself for dropping $5-600 and the ride is unbearable. In October I was ready to pull the trigger on a set of Strange double adjustables - but talked myself out of it until I can get my launch boost building consistent.
I hate spending money twice to cure one problem, but it seems that I'm good at it lol. Done it with the trans, the injectors, probably end up doing it with the converter too. I'm going to have to do something with the rusty blue rear shocks before long. Was hoping for some input on your dime
. I don't want to over extend your friend at Viking's welcome, but if he'd be interested in selling a couple of sets of rears on the 'good' price, then I'm sure I'd be interested.
On a side note - the word on the street is that Drag Week is going to go - announcement within the next 3 weeks - and it's going to be in your neck of the woods (sort of).
I just ordered a set of Bilstein B6's for the front of mine only because I know they worked very well on the street with my son's car. His car was about the same weight as mine on the nose - T6 and piping up there. But yours must be similar with the LSA and additional water for it. Maybe not the same, but pretty close/similar.
I want to buy good, double adjustables for the rear, but krikies - they are stupid money. If I bought a set and they rode like *ss, then I'd be ready to kill myself for dropping $5-600 and the ride is unbearable. In October I was ready to pull the trigger on a set of Strange double adjustables - but talked myself out of it until I can get my launch boost building consistent.
I hate spending money twice to cure one problem, but it seems that I'm good at it lol. Done it with the trans, the injectors, probably end up doing it with the converter too. I'm going to have to do something with the rusty blue rear shocks before long. Was hoping for some input on your dime
. I don't want to over extend your friend at Viking's welcome, but if he'd be interested in selling a couple of sets of rears on the 'good' price, then I'm sure I'd be interested.On a side note - the word on the street is that Drag Week is going to go - announcement within the next 3 weeks - and it's going to be in your neck of the woods (sort of).
I haven't heard about the old 3 ways being poor on the street but It doesn't surprise me and the way I want to use this car they aren't a good fit.
I haven't thought about the Bilstein option tbh. Not sure how they compare with kyb's. I was told by multiple people my car looks funny down the track on shifts and It would do a lot to change the shocks over.
Bilsteins look to be about $360 all in and the Viking Warriors seem to be about $750 for a full set, I don't know if my freind who mentioned the discount is still willing or how much it would be. I'll have to shoot him a message.
Drag week being on is awesome. Kinda a dump for me however since last summer was my shot. Being in grad school I have really good flexibility in my schedule and I had planned to go on power tour and take a week off and head down to Byron Illinois for a day trip to drag week but I'll be back to the full time workforce by Summer so I doubt I can take a week off a month into a new job. I'll see what happens.
I've been thinking of doing rocky mountain race week in June if I can get a couple test runs in before then and test my rear axle situation out. I would want a few other local cars to go and convoy down there.
I haven't thought about the Bilstein option tbh. Not sure how they compare with kyb's. I was told by multiple people my car looks funny down the track on shifts and It would do a lot to change the shocks over.
Bilsteins look to be about $360 all in and the Viking Warriors seem to be about $750 for a full set, I don't know if my freind who mentioned the discount is still willing or how much it would be. I'll have to shoot him a message.
Drag week being on is awesome. Kinda a dump for me however since last summer was my shot. Being in grad school I have really good flexibility in my schedule and I had planned to go on power tour and take a week off and head down to Byron Illinois for a day trip to drag week but I'll be back to the full time workforce by Summer so I doubt I can take a week off a month into a new job. I'll see what happens.
I've been thinking of doing rocky mountain race week in June if I can get a couple test runs in before then and test my rear axle situation out. I would want a few other local cars to go and convoy down there.
And in other news, I thought I'd update with an engine shot. I've done a little work to reorganize the under hood and clean up some wiring and hoses.
Kinda a hose mess but when you have coolers, ac, and a bunch of sensors it's what you end up with.
And I got my aftercooler temp sensor stuff wrapped up. One sensor post aftercooler, one post heat exchanger.
And why I started this expedition, the sensors are to determine if I need ducting, a pump, heat exchanger, or if that's how it is and I'm aftercooler limited. I am at 125 iat with 10psi at the 1/8 and it creeps up to 140 iat at the end of the 1/4. I'd like to keep it more consistent and I'm thinking it's due to less than ideal flow over the heat exchanger but I'm not sure. The heat exchanger sits right behind the two slots in the lower bumper but I'm thinking of trying to pull some ducting from the bottom of the bumper fairing up and connecting the gap between the core support and heat exchanger to pull some air from the rad fan through the exchanger also.
Going to be another few weeks before I can drive so might as well create a few more projects 😜
Kinda a hose mess but when you have coolers, ac, and a bunch of sensors it's what you end up with.
And I got my aftercooler temp sensor stuff wrapped up. One sensor post aftercooler, one post heat exchanger.
And why I started this expedition, the sensors are to determine if I need ducting, a pump, heat exchanger, or if that's how it is and I'm aftercooler limited. I am at 125 iat with 10psi at the 1/8 and it creeps up to 140 iat at the end of the 1/4. I'd like to keep it more consistent and I'm thinking it's due to less than ideal flow over the heat exchanger but I'm not sure. The heat exchanger sits right behind the two slots in the lower bumper but I'm thinking of trying to pull some ducting from the bottom of the bumper fairing up and connecting the gap between the core support and heat exchanger to pull some air from the rad fan through the exchanger also.
Going to be another few weeks before I can drive so might as well create a few more projects 😜
140 degrees is fine imo. If it’s only climbing 15 degrees in the last 1/8th, then no worries. Is the coolant temp doing the same?
Start with the air dam on the bottom of the core support to increase the low pressure area behind the radiator.
Then duct the bejezus out of it.
Lastly, set up an after-run cooling circuit (Key On Engine Off) that keeps the IC pump circulating and the cooling fan blowing to help pull heat out of the system. Just make sure it's on a timer.
Then duct the bejezus out of it.
Lastly, set up an after-run cooling circuit (Key On Engine Off) that keeps the IC pump circulating and the cooling fan blowing to help pull heat out of the system. Just make sure it's on a timer.
It's a 3/8 air hose on a 2" muffler clamp as a intercooler pump mount.
No, coolant temp actually goes down a little but mostly flat. It has a 190 tstat and hovers at 195-200 in the staging lanes and drops to 190 through the pass as it gets some airflow over the rad.
I might be nitpicking on IAT. My brain kinda doesn't shut down sometimes lol.
Good idea on the air dam. I have one sitting in my shed that I took off the wagon that I forgot about.
Ducting is on the list! I'll see if I can wrap up some type of a timer.
I think I meant to say Key Off Engine Off on a timer for that circuit. It was pretty early when I wrote that.
That said... its a shame you don't live closer we could get up to all kinds of wacky stuff.
