BUICK 1964 Skylark Coupe Project

[Texas82GP]

The Lacrosse project had me occupied last week so I didn't get much done on the Skylark, but I'm back on it. I ordered the replacement sheetmetal for the rear window to trunk panel. It includes the panel underneath which is really just the rear section of the package tray panel but it should work well. Basically the section in red will get cut out and replaced.

1964-1965 Chevelle Coupe Rear Window To Trunk Panel Complete With Inner Panel

1964-1965 Chevelle Coupe Rear Window To Trunk Panel Complete With Inner Panel

www.ss396.com

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I dropped $150 today on grinding discs and belts from the body supply shop (holy sh*t that stuff has gotten expensive).

I got the decklid up on the horse and started stripping the underside. Not fun work but it needs to be done.
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I use a die grinder with 40 grit Roloc discs for this task which works great but my air powered die grinder uses enough air to keep my compressor running continuously. So to avoid the noise and the wear on the compressor, I picked up one of these Milwaukee M12 die grinders. It was a bit pricey but it works very well and it's a lot quieter which is nice when working in an attached garage. As a bonus, it doesn't make your hands freezing cold and there is no air hose to trip over. It does run through the 1.5AH battery very fast so I'll probably need to upgrade to a larger battery.
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If anyone has any suggestions on how to clean up inside this lip, let me know. It is sorta difficult to get at with the die grinder and even the half inch belt sander won't fit in there.
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Wire wheel in the drill would likely be my approach.

 

[joesregalproject]

I use my used up clean n strip discs. The edge of it is abrasive and rips thru seam sealer and paint with ease too.
Or u can carefully use a cutoff wheel. Thats the method i used on this door. It looks to me like u might have to use the top and edge of the wheel to get it in there tho. This all gets covered anyway right?View attachment 217682used up clean n strips I always save for these tight crevices.View attachment 217681 It doesn't get it clean completely but alot less to spot blast out. Tbh we'll never get that seam completely rust free since it's embedded between the layers of metal but I figure if you get enough of it out, epoxy it(inside and out if possible) then seam seal and paint, it should outlast us.
Also If I haven't already recommended buying 3 cheap harbor freight 4.5" grinders, and 2 packs of these
BHA Easy Strip Discs Clean and Remove Paint, Rust and Oxidation 4-1/2” x 7/8” - 5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B8GQ0BW/?tag=gbody-20
I bet I could strip a whole car with 10 of these wheels. By far the most effective tools for stripping panels by hand that I've found. The 3m ones are better, but not by much tbh.

I'll be honest, I've never used those style wheels. I usually go straight to 36, 40, 60, or 80 and prime directly over that. I ordered one pack of the ones you linked, I'll give them a shot. Do you strip outer panels with 4.5" wheels?

 

[64nailhead]

Dang, I love sand blasting. Nothing like pulling Black Beauty out of every open crevice for a 2-3 days - glasses, safety goggles and shield. Head wrapped in bandanas and wool cap and still gets in my ears, nose, eyes (and I already mentioned crevice).

 

[ck80]

Dang, I love sand blasting. Nothing like pulling Black Beauty out of every open crevice for a 2-3 days - glasses, safety goggles and shield. Head wrapped in bandanas and wool cap and still gets in my ears, nose, eyes (and I already mentioned crevice).

Pulling up your pants helps with the crevice issue....

 

[64nailhead]

Pulling up your pants helps with the crevice issue....

To the uniformed, it sounds like you're onto something. To those that have gone through 2-5 bags of sand in a day - you're incorrect. That sh*t is worse than the crabs - 'how did it get there?'

 

[ck80]

To the uniformed, it sounds like you're onto something. To those that have gone through 2-5 bags of sand in a day - you're incorrect. That sh*t is worse than the crabs - 'how did it get there?'

Well, if you're dumping 2-5 bags of sand a day down your pants, it makes sense you might have crabs living there too. Well, that or you've been on a recent trip to subic bay or thailand.

 

[melloelky]

To the uniformed, it sounds like you're onto something. To those that have gone through 2-5 bags of sand in a day - you're incorrect. That sh*t is worse than the crabs - 'how did it get there?'

you still need that small comb to get it all out..special shampoo is optional..

 

[melloelky]

Maybe it's just an urban legend, but I remember plenty of old dudes warning me about blasting body panels. Heat distortion and all.

there's truth there,all media causes heat/distortion but the more resistant it is to breaking down the more it's gonna distort.there's way more media selections out there now than before.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

I'll be honest, I've never used those style wheels. I usually go straight to 36, 40, 60, or 80 and prime directly over that. I ordered one pack of the ones you linked, I'll give them a shot. Do you strip outer panels with 4.5" wheels?

Yea. But I do it in layers/sections, always keeping the grinder moving and not pushing very hard, and trying to keep the wheel flat. I use 2 or 3 grinders at a time because they get hot.
If the paint is like the oem gbody laquer, it doesn't want to sand off, it wants to gum up and smear around.
So id pick a 2x2 section and start ripping off layers. It usually took me 3 passes over the same spot to get down to metal enough to use 80 grit on a da because you can't paint over the finish the clean n strip wheels provide anyway, so I would use a da to get this type of stuff off and the last spots of primer that were missed, I didnt take great pictures unfortunately but I found this one. You can see the shiny finish from the clean n strip wheel vs 80grit on a da.

. I've read on the interwebs, You can paint right over the clean n strip scratches. I promise you, you can't. It will flake off, luckily I noticed on patch panels before I actually started painting the car.
The finish is similar to what a wire wheel provides.

there's truth there,all media causes heat/distortion but the more resistant it is to breaking down the more it's gonna distort.there's way more media selections out there now than before.

I wanted to have my hood and decklid blasted but after reading up on it I think I'll just grind them off too.
You have to really trust the blaster, because they won't take responsibility for beating your panels to death and the new dustless guys I talked to say there's no chance of distortion because it produces no heat. I don't believe that and it tells me they go as hard as they want on your flimsy panels.
I think the distortion comes from the peening of the abrasive moreso then the heat generated.

 

[joesregalproject]

Yea. But I do it in layers/sections, always keeping the grinder moving and not pushing very hard, and trying to keep the wheel flat. I use 2 or 3 grinders at a time because they get hot.
If the paint is like the oem gbody laquer, it doesn't want to sand off, it wants to gum up and smear around.
So id pick a 2x2 section and start ripping off layers. It usually took me 3 passes over the same spot to get down to metal enough to use 80 grit on a da because you can't paint over the finish the clean n strip wheels provide anyway, so I would use a da to get this type of stuff off and the last spots of primer that were missed, I didnt take great pictures unfortunately but I found this one. You can see the shiny finish from the clean n strip wheel vs 80grit on a da.. I've read on the interwebs, You can paint right over the clean n strip scratches. I promise you, you can't. It will flake off, luckily I noticed on patch panels before I actually started painting the car.
The finish is similar to what a wire wheel provides.

This stuff is just like the G Body lacquer. It gums up if your speed is too high. Light pressure, multiple passes and around 700 rpm with an 8 inch 40 grit disc is what has worked for me in the past on gummy lacquer.

wanted to have my hood and decklid blasted but after reading up on it I think I'll just grind them off too.
You have to really trust the blaster, because they won't take responsibility for beating your panels to death and the new dustless guys I talked to say there's no chance of distortion because it produces no heat. I don't believe that and it tells me they go as hard as they want on your flimsy panels.
I think the distortion comes from the peening of the abrasive moreso then the heat generated.

One more reason why I don't like blasting. I know more than one person who have had panels destroyed by blasters.

You are correct, heat isn't the issue, the peening effect of the abrasive is. I think if I was going to do a total strip, I'd get it chemically dipped. But that has its own problems- it strips the inside of the panels that can't be accessed to be recoated, and the acid can lurk in seams and cause paint adhesion issues later on.