1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread

[Minion1186]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

I'll admit i dont exactly know if i want overdrive 2004r or th350,i put the poll up for both the trans and the results show that 20 voted the 2004r and 3 voted th350.The only problem with the 2004r that i know i'll run into is the tcc lockup,i dont know where to get the kits for it since i'll be swapping to an older carby.I'm not running a/c for this one,i'll also be deleting the a/c box and since i bought this car the a/c wasnt hooked up anyway and i was planning on removing it.As for dogshit,i wish not to fight,but i have a horrible habbit of not righting everything i read,like you said,so...I have gone to extremeautomatics.com when you posted that reply and i thought that transmission was a helluva lot cheaper than gearstar.I fully read your posts and on that note,i've no idea to whether my carb was overtightened,cracked somehow over high heat,or whatever else.I checked the bolts in the back of the carb and they werent very tight at all.The vaccum pot for the secondaries was also put on about a month ago,it bogged like hell(expected it),and had horrible performance basically running like crap but the only reason i removed the pot is because i loved how loud the quadrajet sounded when it bogged,especially with the air cleaner lid flipped.As for the air cleaner,i like to flip the air cleaner lid,my dad showed me that "trick" years ago,i liked the fact that it made the car louder,not necessarely caring about hot air and performance back then.I believe that every 5 degrees cooler gains you 1% of horsepower?something like that,but like i said its shown improvement.Job you say?still havent got one,about a week or so ago,i filled three more out and may start a couple more next week.I hope that answers your question,i'll try and reply more fully next time :?

 

[jae]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

To the board, am I missing something here or can you run a 200-4R with an earlier carb? Not trying to be too simplistic but the 200-4R needs to have the TV cable hooked up for all-around proper shifting and for tcc, needs 12V to lookup. Can't an earlier quadrajet carb be used, as long as the TV cable is bracketed /connected properly? And for lockup you can get by with a toggle switch, a TCI or B&M (to name a couple) lock-up kit, or leave the computer hooked up?

Minion,
I have to agree with all here, $3400 for a hi-perf 200-4R is hella expensive and $3600 for a Ford 9 is overpriced too. And I'm guessing those prices are you puting them in yourself? I would go the 200-4R route myself but again, your car - your decision.

Good luck on the build and the job hunt.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

To the board, am I missing something here or can you run a 200-4R with an earlier carb? Not trying to be too simplistic but the 200-4R needs to have the TV cable hooked up for all-around proper shifting and for tcc, needs 12V to lookup. Can't an earlier quadrajet carb be used, as long as the TV cable is bracketed /connected properly? And for lockup you can get by with a toggle switch, a TCI or B&M (to name a couple) lock-up kit, or leave the computer hooked up?

Minion,
I have to agree with all here, $3400 for a hi-perf 200-4R is hella expensive and $3600 for a Ford 9 is overpriced too. And I'm guessing those prices are you puting them in yourself? I would go the 200-4R route myself but again, your car - your decision.

Good luck on the build and the job hunt.

For the Quadrajet, anything is possible, but is it logical? 76+ non computer Quadrajets can be bought for around $25-50 and already have everything you need to hook up the TV cable, stock vacuum lines and can easily be converted to electric choke using the parts from the old computer carb the car came with. Sure you can buy adapter kits, but the cost of the kit is not much less than the cost of the right carb. As for the TCC, that has little to do with the TV cable as it is electric (but the TV cable may force it out of lockup under load). In order to do it, you need a Hobbs switch that runs off 3rd or 4th gear line pressure only in order to bypass the computer. It needs to be series connected with the proper brake light switch from a lockup car so that the power to the TCC is severed when you hit the brakes. I haven't done it yet ( my TH 200 4R is running without the lockup hooked up...it is dying a slow death and will be replaced with a 5 speed manual in the future so I don't care), but I have read some articles on how to go about it using simple industrial switches, etc.

Also, for $3500, I would not be running an automatic. For that sort of money, you can have the infinitely cooler 6 speed manual conversion.

 

[Minion1186]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

is it anymore simplistic to hookup an older carb with a th350?i havent yet located a good carb,i got the donated 67 cadillac big block qjet but as many said here,it wont work.I've been trying to get a remanned 1973 qjet from a 350 which right now arent available from summit,but if i get the 73 350 olds qjet will it hookup with no problems to my 307?or should i run a later qjet like from 1978?Also as of this week or so i've been trying to find out if i can get this 1970 olds 350 v8 that in a garage a couple blocks from where i live,this guy has not only that engine laying around but also may have a th350,so if i where to score with this 350 sbo should i get the th350 too?Right now if i did get that engine and trans i drop it in but would i run into problems with that old of a carburetor(1970 qjet?).Still havent got one of those things called a job yet,which sucks.

 

[Minion1186]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

well,october 31st was when my part time insurance came off my cutlass,so i started on stripping the carburetor,smog hoses,vaccum lines and ecm (and also the great amount of zip ties) off of my 307.I am planning on an older carburetor/distributor swap this winter since i wont be able to drive it.I have been working now for 4 weeks,3 hours a day and my back has been hurting to higher hell!Its been a week since basically all of the hoses,wires and the ecm has been taken out and now i've also been doing some buying and thinking and i want to do a non a/c alternator swap.I am having some alignment problems with the belts,both the alternator and p/s pump pulley want to use the same pulley on the water pump so i'll be possibly getting new pulleys to achieve a stock look and have no alignment problems for this swap.I have just recently found a double grooved p/s pump and pulley from my 350 olds and i'll be using that.I think that i'll be good if i only get a new crank pulley and a new water pump pulley.Aside from that,i'll also be fixing my erractic tachometer/speedo by soldering them and making them work properly and also be converting my 2004r into a non lockup converter and since i took the ecm out and i wont be buying a kit for the tcc, i wont use the 4th gear as overdrive,but as "an extra gear",i wont be doing any transmission work because i'll get the mechanic friend to do it,but from what i understand by making it a non lockup converter it'll be basically like a normal 4th gear,just tall.Back to the carburetor and dist. swap,i have a hei dist. from a 79 delta w/ a 350 olds i'll use and soon i'll get a rochester carburetor dated to be a 1973 olds 350 4bbl w/automatic transmission.I have posted a topic about why you shouldnt get your carburetor rebuilt be professionals and i had proof.I was always wondering why my engine would have a rough idle and i found out that it was the throttle shaft wasnt rebushed as the carb was said to be.I have a receipt from when it was rebuild from the PO of my cutlass and the cost of this was $300,not to mention the air horn was found superglued,oh well thats some expensive superglue then!Aside from the shitty carb,i found no other real problems with my 307.I also found a trick by removing the two tower like looking pipes inside my intake manifold and by shortening or removing them completely (if not using egr) will improve low rpm range performance.I even got a nice 442 air cleaner and non a/c alternator brackets from a couple fello g body advocates here.here's some big pics of my progress.My 442 air cleaner

 

[Blake442]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

Hope these help...

I'm using a long aluminum waterpump from Mondello, A/C waterpump and crank pulleys.
I used the '69 power steering pump and changed the fitting on the hose.

I have a set of non a/c pulleys I'll eventually swap to, but I don't feel like buying another waterpump at the moment...

Tried to get a few angles to help show how they line up.

 

[Perpendicular]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

Which headers are you going with?

I am working on my 455 and plan on installing it after the new year so am trying to gather all the information and parts I need before then

Looks GREAT!!

 

[Minion1186]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

It's november 23,yesterday i started on taking my valve covers and intake manifold off,the reason for the valve covers to come off was i had some extra red engine paint and i decided to sandblast the old burnt paint and burnt on rubber off them and paint them.I found a minor hole in the passenger side valve cover,turns out that part of the valve cover was starting to pit and gave through,so i put down some metal bondo as a cheap fix.As for the intake,i ran into a problem concerning the egr discharge tubes found in the primary bores of the intake,thought as a little tune up "performance trick" i'd cut the tubes down to the hex base and reinstall them,but as it turns out the hercules i am i overtightened the steel bolts on the aluminum intake and the next time i took them out i found lots of aluminum strapped on the threads of the bolts.I fixed this problem by sandblasting the bolts at 120-150 psi with good sand and it cleaned them up,i also sandblasted my manifold to clear the paint and the threads inside where the bolts sit.I also ran to the local hardware store and got a piece of steel sheet metal,24x24" and made my own a/c delete panel.I used my cardboard templates from before and just traced and cut the steel out and it looks pretty clean.The total cost of the steel was $20,hell better than $70 for a laser cut one eh?I also found out that my 307's heads are really ported 8) .And i even did math and found out my 307 being .40 over is a 313 cubic inch v8!About a week ago i whent searching at a yard and found appropriate olds water pump and crank pulleys for my non a/c alternator pulley swap and i also have a double grooved p/s pump from my 350 olds i'll use to complete the swap.It'll be a couple months before i get a choice carburetor and have my cutlass up and running so right now all i'll be doing is other work to my cutlass such as fixing my erractic tachometer,speedometer and oil pressure gauge,along with installing two or three vintage cadillac horns and wires for my alternator.

Blake442-It looks as though i have the same waterpump pulley as you and possibly the same crank pulley,hopefully using my double grooved p/s pump it'll even everything out for me.Thanks

Perpendicular-I plan on getting a cheap set of flowtech 350-455 gbody ceramic coated headers along with a transmission crossmember and a dual exhaust setup with glasspacks at the end.I'd like to get all those parts as a whole so i can install all at once.The 455 should be killer!if you havent already looked into one i suggest getting a double hump transmission crossmember for your gbody,running headers with a factory crossmember wont do it,getting one of those also allows a cleaner look when installing duals (the factory crossmember will offset the heights of the pipes,adding a crossmember even them out parallel.)good luck on the build.

 

[Minion1186]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

Update-After all my plans and work i've done on the 307 this winter kinda goes down the drain,I have just gotten a 350,a free th350 and a holley double pumper for $1000 off my one buddy.I have already ripped the 307/2004r out of my cutlass and am readying the frame and firewall for the new engine and transmission.The engine is a 1973 olds 350 with W-31 #7 heads that are fully ported.The specs for the engine are as follows-350 block,bored .30 over,flat top forged pistons,edelbrock performer rpm intake,holley 750 cfm double pumper,W-31 heads,fully ported,lunati custom grind 244/304 camshaft,Mondello Solid roller lifters,full roller rockers,engine yields a true 12:0.1 compression and runs off of a mix of 93 octane and 110 octane or "jet" fuel.This engine is believed to be making 400 horsepower and 510 FT/Ib torque.The TH-350 was an extra that was thrown in free,rebuilt with a manual valve body and I paid $200 extra for a Holley 750 cfm double pumper.The engine/transmission/carb were all in a 1986 olds cutlass supreme brougham drag car,complete with a posi and 3.55 gears was capable of running 12.50s.I have priced almost everything else i would need for it to be complete and it'll be around $600.I need little things like a fuel filter,fuel line,fuel pump and bigger things like an exhaust system,torque converter,starter,crossmember and a modified driveshaft.The engine and transmission will be going in the cutlass in about a month or so,i need to save up for the converter and everything else so i've just been cleaning up the engine bay and frame while there's no engine in it.I dont know if the stock dual snorkel air cleaner will fit under the hood,so i may need to run my dropbase edelbrock or spend some dough on a 2" cowl induction hood.My dream has basically come true,a 73 350 making 400 horses/over 500 ft/ib torque and a strong running th350 backing it,all i really need now is a new rear,i honeslty cant wipe the smile off my face!I also got a pair of dynomax blackjack headers for $50 too.Here's some pics of the new progress.

 

[Blake442]

Re: 1986 Olds Cutlass Salon Thread(About Time!)

No need to modify your driveshaft if you're going from a 200-4R to a TH350.

At 12:1, you should run regular race gas like VP-100 instead of dicking around with mixing pump gas and 110.

Also, pull the motor mounts off the frame mounts and bolt them to the block.
Trying to line them up to the block sitting in place like that will only result in you pulling your hair out.