I agree, that sounds like a great plan! I did.t get a good view of the housewrap to see how well it was taped, but as you stated, the foam board, foam, and soon to be caulked gaps and seams with air seal the building. I will caulk all the posts to the foam board, the lumber that buts to each other, everything that I cant foam TBH.Ahh I see that now. Only other thing I'd say from my reading is that the air will condense against the warmer surface, which would either be the batts of insulation or the inside of the foam (in the winter), if it's going to condense at all. If it doesn't get too humid inside though, it should be able to dry to the inside as drywall is a class 3 vapor barrier even when painted. It's when you encapsulate both sides of the wall that you really run the risk of getting damage inside. I'm thinking for my shop I'll either do faced batts, which have a class 2 vapor retarder, or unfaced and 6 mil poly as my pockets aren't deep enough to cool a pole barn in the summer with no exterior foam. Thinking I'll tape the building wrap on it as well to keep any wind blown moisture from finding its way in. That's where your foam board will help if you sealed all the nooks and crannies, supposedly (from what I've read) air moving through the wall assembly is the biggest source of moisture intrusion and the vapor barrier stuff trails it by a bit.
It's a good time there, I have a buddy that lives a stone throw away from it. A few years ago went there during my birthday weekend, followed by a gentlemen's clubJust for fun, here is my current situation.
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Hopefully the rain holds off enough to get 3 nights of racing in, along with the afterparty!
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