here is the GM part number, 10019587
https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-insulator-asm-rr-spr-upr-10019587.html
https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-insulator-asm-rr-spr-upr-10019587.html
383 ez-efi and overdrive
- Thread starter ttype
- Start date
- Status
quick question for you (rework is not my cup of tea)... how much are you removing from springs(degrees-wise looking "through" the spring from top) do you remove?
i s'pose i could head down to the dump to weigh the rear axle, since the closest CVSE scales are 2+ hours away, and using the 162#/in formula... what amount of "coil" do you remove?
ya know? say a guy likes the looks of reasonably level cars.( i have an approximation of gear/tool weight +fuel i need when i'm "on the road") and don't necessarily like re-adjusting my headlight aim. i know it's easy, but i tend to sandbag my rides accordingly as i adjust lights before a trip. i use a specific constant when loading my truck/trailer combos... just looking for a reasonable "guess"timate is all...
i guess if i knew my car's rear weight was known, i could make an educated guess...
has anyone weighed their cars on certified scales? and if so, what kind of numbers do you have and with what sort of combos do your cars use?
thank you in advance.
I don't know how much I cut off, I cut a bit, let it settle and then cut some more till it was right.
a guy can normally feel his *ss-end lower itself just tanking up... i think your method works pretty easy too. (referring to a previous posting i read somewhere else 
, ssn too )
, ssn too )
gas weighs about 6 lbs a gallon so a full tank adds about 100 lbs and that's dynamic weight cause it sits behind the wheels
hello fellow G folks! been waiting for my flexplate and balancer to arrive from "engine builder", and i'm still waitng...
in the meantime, had a replacement "400 2bbl" flexplate arrive friday (ordered it thursday afternoon locally), from Vancouver, and the balancer should be in on Monday(all the way from Edmonton lol). while disassembling the trans from engine today, discovered a strange "chamfer" at the hub of the torque converter, and a strange grooving in the crankshaft flange where they meet. is it possible... that i have a crankshaft that was meant to have a manual transmission pilot bushing instead of a torque converter sized hole?
i'm stumped.
i dropped my camera phone while taking pictures of various items i was posting for sale, and it does not take a charge currently. i'll see if my old standby phone can be used for "show and ask". i did have the torque converter uncoupled for diagnosing the vibrations in the motor. will have that motor out tomorrow for more detective/diagnostics. depending on the findings...
i may have to change the thread title to 327 ez-efi and overdrive, but not until tomorrow later in the day. i'm thinking if the motor is not serviceable(due to torque converter/crankshaft hub interface inadequacies), i'll swap some of the goodies over to the old mill, but wishing i didn't have to. hafta see what gives tomorrow i s'pose...
have a good'un folks!
in the meantime, had a replacement "400 2bbl" flexplate arrive friday (ordered it thursday afternoon locally), from Vancouver, and the balancer should be in on Monday(all the way from Edmonton lol). while disassembling the trans from engine today, discovered a strange "chamfer" at the hub of the torque converter, and a strange grooving in the crankshaft flange where they meet. is it possible... that i have a crankshaft that was meant to have a manual transmission pilot bushing instead of a torque converter sized hole?
i'm stumped.
i dropped my camera phone while taking pictures of various items i was posting for sale, and it does not take a charge currently. i'll see if my old standby phone can be used for "show and ask". i did have the torque converter uncoupled for diagnosing the vibrations in the motor. will have that motor out tomorrow for more detective/diagnostics. depending on the findings...
i may have to change the thread title to 327 ez-efi and overdrive, but not until tomorrow later in the day. i'm thinking if the motor is not serviceable(due to torque converter/crankshaft hub interface inadequacies), i'll swap some of the goodies over to the old mill, but wishing i didn't have to. hafta see what gives tomorrow i s'pose...
have a good'un folks!
Last edited:
dug out an old 327 from the stash today, spun the pump with a drill to lube 'er up a bit, turned 'er over a bit without plugs installed and discovered it takes 22lb-ft of torque to get rotating. oil pressure wasn't great at 49psi cold, but was looking to have a just in case motor for the old girl in the event the new balancer and flexplate don't shake the vibrations out of 'er...
after assessing leaky valve seals, clean looking combustion chambers even coloration on the sparkplugs i pulled out of 'er, i figured if worse come to worse with the 383 i's re-head the motor and stick with the RV cam i installed in 'er in '06.
while loosening the flexplate bolts i heard a familiar sounding "thungk" reminding me of excessive end-play on a 455, i thought i'd check end play with a dial gauge. .028" on the thrust bearing of a 600 mile engine.
curiosity lead me to check thrust bearing endplay on the 327 i refurbished on the cheap years ago. i could barely get it to show a measurable amount by eye, compared to the 383 stroker i had built by a local professional drag race engine builder, which has eaten one transmission inside of engine break-in, and chewed a torque converter alignment hub on the second.
this builder has repeatedly told me there would be no benefit to inspect main bearings because they would be fine as is.
long story short, i'm pulling the motor tomorrow to inspect main bearings and maybe perform root cause analysis on the failure of thrust bearing surfaces. i can time a three phase breaker and perform required adjustments in that capacity. combine that with a decent amount of mechanical ability and i should be able to decipher what exactly is the scoop with that motor.
first thing will be to gather crankshaft info, check the center main for galling or vetting, see if there is any bluing on the connecting rods's sides and go from there.
as far as this is appearing, this professional drag race engine builder does not appear to have what it takes to come good with me, and i may have to resort to other methods to obtain a reliable stroker engine... and rebuild it myself. the real sh*tter is: 2 summers have passed since i dropped the block off to this guy, another went by after breaking a transmission(without being able to take the car with me), 2 more summers have passed due to work commitments, and it is beginning to look like another will keep me away again just as i am ready for another assignment.
am i ever glad that guy talked me out of a 20 000km warranty crate engine from the local GM dealer. they don't know how to build sh*t. looks like i might be able to have at least a fuelly 327 to tool around in, if work doesn't call before i am ready... yaaay!
'til the next installment GBody folks.
after assessing leaky valve seals, clean looking combustion chambers even coloration on the sparkplugs i pulled out of 'er, i figured if worse come to worse with the 383 i's re-head the motor and stick with the RV cam i installed in 'er in '06.
while loosening the flexplate bolts i heard a familiar sounding "thungk" reminding me of excessive end-play on a 455, i thought i'd check end play with a dial gauge. .028" on the thrust bearing of a 600 mile engine.
curiosity lead me to check thrust bearing endplay on the 327 i refurbished on the cheap years ago. i could barely get it to show a measurable amount by eye, compared to the 383 stroker i had built by a local professional drag race engine builder, which has eaten one transmission inside of engine break-in, and chewed a torque converter alignment hub on the second.
this builder has repeatedly told me there would be no benefit to inspect main bearings because they would be fine as is.
long story short, i'm pulling the motor tomorrow to inspect main bearings and maybe perform root cause analysis on the failure of thrust bearing surfaces. i can time a three phase breaker and perform required adjustments in that capacity. combine that with a decent amount of mechanical ability and i should be able to decipher what exactly is the scoop with that motor.
first thing will be to gather crankshaft info, check the center main for galling or vetting, see if there is any bluing on the connecting rods's sides and go from there.
as far as this is appearing, this professional drag race engine builder does not appear to have what it takes to come good with me, and i may have to resort to other methods to obtain a reliable stroker engine... and rebuild it myself. the real sh*tter is: 2 summers have passed since i dropped the block off to this guy, another went by after breaking a transmission(without being able to take the car with me), 2 more summers have passed due to work commitments, and it is beginning to look like another will keep me away again just as i am ready for another assignment.
am i ever glad that guy talked me out of a 20 000km warranty crate engine from the local GM dealer. they don't know how to build sh*t. looks like i might be able to have at least a fuelly 327 to tool around in, if work doesn't call before i am ready... yaaay!
'til the next installment GBody folks.
Last edited:
didn't get to pull the 383 out yesterday, was more curious about the condition of the bottom end on the replacement 327. tipped 'er over to regasket the pan, a quick hand-eye inspection of connecting rods and no conceivable amount of play in any of the rods, so will leave them as is(no need to pop a cap off since side clearances seem tight enough). i did drive around with that motor for several years, so it isn't like i'm grabbing any old engine that was layin' around...
since i'll be ripping the 383 apart anyway, as in no sense in trying to band-aid that thing, i'll hopefully enjoy my car for the summer with the old motor i used to have a pile o' fun with.
my camera phone is still on the fritz until i fix/replace it, i'll see if i can take pics a different way.
the 327 got a cleaned up edelbrock EPS intake put on it yesterday, one coat clear, followed by a dusting of aluminum wheel finish paint, then another coat of clear engine enamel. it looks good, but now i'll hafta refinish the M/T valve covers to match(their finish isn't that great anymore). washing an engine with painted everythings makes detailing so much easier...
since i admire the factory appearing stock tire thing, i may end up throwing on some stamped steel covers, and top coating everything orange... kinda like the way Jared did with his "blue motor"... i'll see. aluminum finished headers and the electronics veer off my thinking, so i may have to keep things simple and go wit what i got...
i also thought of using an old 455-4 air cleaner since it uses a 3"x14" element, and the size of it doesn't have clearance for the HEI cap on a small block... so... out comes the band saw, slice a wedge off it, then invert it into the hole, and weld it back up. since a 455 can breathe with it up to about 4500 rpm, it should do fine with the 327. i helped it along a bit by sawing off the preheat air diverter, and i'll weld up a 3" extension(flattened) and mate up to the oval opening. assuming 115cfm/sq.in., i'm left with 6 sq.in. of air filter inlet. i may run some ducting from the round 3" inlet for a homebuilt CAI, i'll see what happens. the efi measures the air volume and accomodates A/F ratios anyways, so it may not be of benefit to have a CAI since air inlet temperature is part of the volume calculation process
i really dig the sound my new exhaust system(dynomax VT's), and think i'd rather hear them during acceleration, than the air breather roar, hence the factory style air breather.
more to come,
r.
since i'll be ripping the 383 apart anyway, as in no sense in trying to band-aid that thing, i'll hopefully enjoy my car for the summer with the old motor i used to have a pile o' fun with.
my camera phone is still on the fritz until i fix/replace it, i'll see if i can take pics a different way.
the 327 got a cleaned up edelbrock EPS intake put on it yesterday, one coat clear, followed by a dusting of aluminum wheel finish paint, then another coat of clear engine enamel. it looks good, but now i'll hafta refinish the M/T valve covers to match(their finish isn't that great anymore). washing an engine with painted everythings makes detailing so much easier...
since i admire the factory appearing stock tire thing, i may end up throwing on some stamped steel covers, and top coating everything orange... kinda like the way Jared did with his "blue motor"... i'll see. aluminum finished headers and the electronics veer off my thinking, so i may have to keep things simple and go wit what i got...
i also thought of using an old 455-4 air cleaner since it uses a 3"x14" element, and the size of it doesn't have clearance for the HEI cap on a small block... so... out comes the band saw, slice a wedge off it, then invert it into the hole, and weld it back up. since a 455 can breathe with it up to about 4500 rpm, it should do fine with the 327. i helped it along a bit by sawing off the preheat air diverter, and i'll weld up a 3" extension(flattened) and mate up to the oval opening. assuming 115cfm/sq.in., i'm left with 6 sq.in. of air filter inlet. i may run some ducting from the round 3" inlet for a homebuilt CAI, i'll see what happens. the efi measures the air volume and accomodates A/F ratios anyways, so it may not be of benefit to have a CAI since air inlet temperature is part of the volume calculation process
i really dig the sound my new exhaust system(dynomax VT's), and think i'd rather hear them during acceleration, than the air breather roar, hence the factory style air breather.
more to come,
r.
Last edited:
yanked the pan off that 383 yesterday... just to have a peek. turns out there is a stroker crank in it, i-beam rods, drilled bottoms on the pistons. i was prepared for the worst as far as surprises go... studded con rods with eagle/arp(8740?) 1.5 markings on it... "good" stuff(there is better...)
found chips of bearing material in the pan bottom, a little chunk of blue silicone sealant(only orange stuff under the intake i installed), numbered connecting rod caps(stamped)... i won't come to any conclusions until i have the motor in a clean room to finish my detailed autopsy... by reading many a post here from other enthusiasts, i'll have a good sense of the sequence of events leading me to the possession of a 4500$ shortblock core.
had a real nice conversation with trans specialist from Black Creek last night. described to him a bit of what went on with this build, and in short, my transmission will be fine for another go-round with the slightly worked over 327... PHEWWWW!
real nice fella that trans guy is... friendly, courteous, professional, and will take a call at home after his day job. all he said about a 600'ish mile motor with .030" end play is "well ya know... hate to have to tell you something you prolly already know, but any motor guy who doesn't hand you back a motor with a flexplate and balancer wouldn't get any repeat business from me. that motor will have to come apart before you ever run it again, and you may just have to buy another crank for it... go over it alright... just have it balanced with a balancer/flexplate arrangement on it. certainly appears as though it wasn't done at this point. lemme know what you find out k" (transmission guys and engine builders are always at odds when it comes to "who dunnit?")
i thanked him for the "couch time" (he chuckled), then went to the highschool gym for some pickle ball with some other 40+ers. had two older ladies send me all over that court chasing the ball... the combination of exercise, the bike ride down, and the social interaction was just what the doctor ordered...
'til the next time GBody folks's...
r.
found chips of bearing material in the pan bottom, a little chunk of blue silicone sealant(only orange stuff under the intake i installed), numbered connecting rod caps(stamped)... i won't come to any conclusions until i have the motor in a clean room to finish my detailed autopsy... by reading many a post here from other enthusiasts, i'll have a good sense of the sequence of events leading me to the possession of a 4500$ shortblock core.
had a real nice conversation with trans specialist from Black Creek last night. described to him a bit of what went on with this build, and in short, my transmission will be fine for another go-round with the slightly worked over 327... PHEWWWW!
real nice fella that trans guy is... friendly, courteous, professional, and will take a call at home after his day job. all he said about a 600'ish mile motor with .030" end play is "well ya know... hate to have to tell you something you prolly already know, but any motor guy who doesn't hand you back a motor with a flexplate and balancer wouldn't get any repeat business from me. that motor will have to come apart before you ever run it again, and you may just have to buy another crank for it... go over it alright... just have it balanced with a balancer/flexplate arrangement on it. certainly appears as though it wasn't done at this point. lemme know what you find out k" (transmission guys and engine builders are always at odds when it comes to "who dunnit?")
i thanked him for the "couch time" (he chuckled), then went to the highschool gym for some pickle ball with some other 40+ers. had two older ladies send me all over that court chasing the ball... the combination of exercise, the bike ride down, and the social interaction was just what the doctor ordered...
'til the next time GBody folks's...
r.
after a bit of clean-up on the modified air cleaner, and a plastic air cleaner spacer to make up the difference in height from the RPM to EPS intake, some stove paint and clear coating, there is ample clearance between sparkplug boots(at HEI), and hood clearances since the GM air cleaner base is the same height from bottom as the edelbrock air cleaner, the carb mounting height difference is the same as that plastic spacer...
i saw some pretty spanky stuff for air breather velocity aids on the web, and the more i look at them, they have some strangely similar floor contours as the GM air cleaner bases of old... food for thought.
r.
i saw some pretty spanky stuff for air breather velocity aids on the web, and the more i look at them, they have some strangely similar floor contours as the GM air cleaner bases of old... food for thought.
r.
- Status
Similar threads
