$4 gas & your g-body

[Coveted]

Stock ls1s turn 13.80s and 13.90s.

One example would be my friend stock ls1 98 formula. On the stock tire it was running 13.6 spinning bad, and this was back in 98. Nothing touched on the car at all.

 

[R/T kota]

Stock ls1s turn 13.80s and 13.90s.

One example would be my friend stock ls1 98 formula. On the stock tire it was running 13.6 spinning bad, and this was back in 98. Nothing touched on the car at all.

umm your point?
What ever.
I'll say mine again for you noob
Put a decent street tire on it and was 13.20 all day long. Still no mods.
If a car can run low 13s on a slick, than it does have enough power to run that number now don't it.

 

[Coveted]

Stock ls1s turn 13.80s and 13.90s.

One example would be my friend stock ls1 98 formula. On the stock tire it was running 13.6 spinning bad, and this was back in 98. Nothing touched on the car at all.

umm your point?
What ever.
I'll say mine again for you noob
Put a decent street tire on it and was 13.20 all day long. Still no mods.
If a car can run low 13s on a slick, than it does have enough power to run that number now don't it.

I said STOCK
Not a SLICK or a high performence tire. Slicks dont come from the factory.

 

[Tony_SS]

You are forgetting what is the big drawback to the OE EFI. It will not work properly unless you have the chipped ignition key, and it needs the VSS signal from the trans which also runs the speedo in LSX powered factory installs. it may not even start without the key, as it is a part of the passive anti-theft systems in newer GM cars. The MSD box and carb'd intake is NOT a cheap alternative either. I believe they cost around $800 as a package deal, but it may be a little less or more, I can't find it in my Summit catalog right now. Also, then there's the power steering pump to contend with and custom hoses that will need to be fabbed, the A/C compressor ( which there is no factory way of getting rid of that I am aware of) and it's hoses, if it's a Corvette engine, that is throttle by wire and must be converted, etc. Then there is the electric cooling fans, and upgraded radiator with the right fittings for an LSX. Plus, don't discount the costs associated with the EFI's fuel lines and return lines either. It is in the little things that the LSX is expensive. Yes, you could run a cheap stand alone ECU line the Megasquirt/ Spectre EMS-Pro, or the Greddy Emanage, but those still will cost you a bunch of cash as well ( $300 for a basic Megasquirt, $900 for the EMS-Pro, and around the same for the Greddy). Plus, some of them do not include ignition circuits to run an 8 coil pack ignition, so you need to buy upgrades to do so. I love the LSX engines and wish I could do one for my car, but I see total costs of around $5,000 at minimum, not $2,000 when all is said and done. If you can prove me wrong, fine. Go do it and post the price of every single little part and piece required to make it work properly. I'll admit I am wrong if it can be proven.

^ I need to move in next door and repeatidly tap you for knowledge regularly haha

Good info.

Good info, or mis-info? Negative unresearched opinions maybe? Toe-Mato, TamAto? :lol:

 

[R/T kota]

I said STOCK
Not a SLICK or a high performence tire. Slicks dont come from the factory.

So explain to me how a slick or sticky street tire changes your horse power? The engine is still stock.
You said an LS1 F body car does not have enough power to run 13s

its 280rwhp for a stock ls1 thats not enough to push a 3400lb car 13 seconds.

I am telling you that with a factory tire they are already there. You even changed your story a bit and say they will run 13.8 13.9. Before you said they could not run 13s.
With a slick, you take out any traction disadvantage the car may have. It does not add to your horse power what so ever. Its not like adding nitrous or something of that nature.

So again. This is not a modification to your engine. This is just taking bad traction out of the equation.

And I will say it again in case you didn't get it and clearly you did not,
If the car can run in the low thirteens with a slick, then it does have enough power from the engine to run that number where you were saying it does not.

What part of that exactly do you not understand??

 

[Vern]

Karter, I don't care if the thought of reasonable performance AND reasonable mileage in a gbody somehow offends you or.. whatever. Stay off this thread as you have contributed nothing toward THE SUBJECT good or bad and started pointless arguments. Go back to your thread and tell somebody about the install of your new 7.5 rear for your soon to be 11 second rat rod drag car. Tell them about you being a no bondo kind of guy and your plan to remetal all the rust except for cutting out the trunk to save weight, tell them about the virtues of your beloved 2 speed transmission, hell I don't care what you tell them just do it there instead of here as you obviously have nothing to contribute to the this thread. No I am not an admin and I can't stop you from continually trying to sabatosh this thread all I can do is ask that you post somewhere else.

Back to LS conversions and other setups that can make a gbody fly and get decent mileage.

I have not fully researched & priced doing a LS conversion but I can see where you can spend $2 grand even being frugal just in parts & supplies. Also your time & labor will likley add up to more than that of any old school GM motor. At least by the time she has exhaust everything working and going down the road. Still I suspect even starting with nothing but a rolling chassy (sp?) that you could have it going down the road powered by a salvage yard LS motor for a lot less than the $5Gs. I dunno. Worth it probably for those that can afford it especially for the larger displacement versions if your emphasis is to go fast without a power adder.

Who has a combo or can list a combo that will run 13.5 or better and get 15 mpg or better?

Combos might include; engine, compression - static and or dynamic, cam - lift and duration at 50, maybe intake or heads info, fuel injection or carberator choice, transmission choice, converter - stall size lockup or non, rear end & gear, tire size or height, power adder, weight, naturally the car, mileage and et/mph if ya got it. I don't care if its powered by a fricken Honda what will get the job done. General project costs are a bonus.

 

[Coveted]

Karter, I don't care if the thought of reasonable performance AND reasonable mileage in a gbody somehow offends you or.. whatever.

It dosent offend me LOL, Sounds likwe people nto caring about MPG makes you MADDDD considering your attacks on Everyone who dosent care about mpg.

9.5:1 with a cam, and an overdrive transmission 308 rearend gears will run 13.X and still net 15mpg Ive said this twice now, theres the anwser to your Combo Request.

Think rash for a moment tho, LSx swap would deffinatly be awesome in a gbody, but would the Few more MPG offset the cost NO, not even close.

nobody wants to Sabotage your little fuel savings parade.
If you want to spend 5000$+ to get an extra 7mpg, go for it.
Ill even do the math for you.

6,000 miles @ 10mpg = 2400
6,000 miles @ 15mpg = 1600
6,000 miles @ 20mpg = 1200

So with that you'd have to drive 30,000 miles on your LSx set up, just to pay for it, and you still havent saved a dime.Nobody was ever bashing anything.
While you were sitting in your recliner putting together bench combos, we were doing the math on it.And because you didnt like the numbers, you got mad and tried to chase us away.

The numbers don't lie.
Mild built 350/ over driver trans / 2.73 - 3.08 rear end gear (maybe a 3.23) = mid 13s Mayyybe.

 

[R/T kota]

Last time I saw a used ls series engine for sale it was complete with harness, and auto trans and went for 1800 bucks.
I don't know where you are getting these huge numbers from.
Also you have to remember that the after market jumped all over the LSX and several companies offer easy plug and play engine management systems for swaps at a very reasonable price.
If I wasn't dropping my turbo buick engine in my malibu, I would be doing an LSX combo of some sort. The cost really isn't that bad considering the the benefits of good drive anywhere performance and good gas millage out way the initial cost.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I did do a little research over the past day as to the LSX costs, but have been unable to post them due to a lack of internet, or the ability to find a network I could get into until I went to school today. The price of the GMPP carb intake, MSD controller for the coil packs and the wiring is right around $850 according to a Car Craft article from 2007. Headers are $650-800 (same article), Moroso makes a swap pan (no price), or supposedly there is a C6 Corvette pan you could use (Hot Rod's LSX Article with general info). There is also a timing cover available from GMPP that allows use of a standard distributor (front mount) and does away with the coil packs, but I have no pricing info on that either. Another point is that the inlet and outlet for the cooling system of the engine is located on the passenger's side of the engine, but the top hose could probably be made to go to the driver's side because it is a straight inlet like a Windsor Ford. As an alternative to modifying a non computer trans you could also use the indigenous 4L65E or T-56 manual, but the automatic requires the use of a GM controller or suitable aftermarket alternative. The 4L65E may be able to be run off the controller from a diesel pickup (it's a stand-alone in those applications, but most use the 4L80E, which is a TH400 with OD), but it would require recalibration to work with a spark ignition engine's rev range. My whole point was that anyone considering an LSX swap needs to consider the total cost of the swap and not just the cost of the engine. Yes, this is hot rodding, but practicality needs to be considered as well since many of us do not have a lot of money to build our cars with. ( frankly, I am having a hard time coming up with the $100 I need to spend to rent a paint booth and buy the remaining materials to finish my paint job)

 

[Vern]

R/T kota, Your Malibu should be light, what do you expect it to weigh with the GN motor? My GN with extra braceing gawd aweful heavy stock wheels actually widened stock wheels on the back & T-tops weighed 3790 we me fuel, spare & some tools. For some reason the stock steel 15x7 chrome GN wheel is a lot heavier than the stock steel 15x7 chrome 442 ralley. I think the Malibu with the little turbo Buick V6 is very cool. Talk about a potential sleeper! Acquireing one of those motors is generally not cheap either but the conversion into your bu should be a lot easier and cheaper than an LS conversion. Power for the buck and mileage should be similar to a point but the LS would have to get the nod for not being as tempermental and ultimately haveing more block strength etc if you are going for really big power. (although I know they have done 700HP & ran 9s on a girdled stock block) Tell us your setup and your goals for this car. Is it going to be set up primarily for use on the street or the track? Oh yea pics would be very cool.