455 swap maybe???

[1bad79]

All day long but I'm Dutch so 400 or 500 would be better lol

 

[1bad79]

I would go in at 300 tell him there both cores as far as your concerned and offer 300,150 each reason,they need to be gone through then go from there with him

 

[H/O84]

The guy is giving me the 83 hurst olds parts car for free so Im going to give him $600 and another $50 to hold the car and engine for a few weeks.

 

[1bad79]

Well sounds like you win hurst olds' s around me are scarce even parts ones

 

[1bad79]

So now get a book set some goals and talk to some builders and join the sledgehammer torque club,...when you get it going you'll understand that

 

[H/O84]

Well sounds like you win hurst olds' s around me are scarce even parts ones

they are around here too, I got lucky I found his ad for the car trying to give it away. Its junk. the floor and rockers are gone. almost all the HO parts are gone but its got most of the maroon interior plastic, 2 good ss3 wheels and good t tops which I need for my car. But it also has the all the glass, steering and brakes so its a good car to part since its missing the dash, front clip and drivetrain. Someone stuck a 65 cutlass rear end under it.

 

[1bad79]

they are around here too, I got lucky I found his ad for the car trying to give it away. Its junk. the floor and rockers are gone. almost all the HO parts are gone but its got most of the maroon interior plastic, 2 good ss3 wheels and good t tops which I need for my car. But it also has the all the glass, steering and brakes so its a good car to part since its missing the dash, front clip and drivetrain. Someone stuck a 65 cutlass rear end under it.

That axle might be worth some money to the right person when you get the car,crack it open see what
It is gear ratio and if it's a posi

 

[H/O84]

Will probably end up going in my friends monte carlo. Hes getting it close to running and I dont think the stock 7.5 will hold up against the 600 hp 383

 

[olds307 and 403]

Small block headers (260-403) won't fit a 455. Plus, headers are just a nuisance at the level you'll be at. Manifolds are perfectly fine until you start really hogging out the heads, have high compression, big lumpy cam, big carb, etc. and you really need to get that air out. Yeah, it'd be an increase in performance, but manifolds are a better choice in your situation, at least for right now.

as far as heads and headers go my personal feeling is if your going to run a stock head you will notice the center divider is short on the exhaust, this is what gives olds the unique tone at idle but robs power headers offer no advantage in this situation, so manifolds like posted above are a good choice, if your going aluminum heads like me or welding up center dividers and plugging the center holes off that go to the intake lower area {alot of costly work on a stock head} headers are the way to go

I know dyno tests have been done and shown 40 HP gains with full length headers on a W30 compared to W/Z manifolds and spindly stock duals. The early heads have a much smaller divider space to fill or mill compared to later junk 2A, 3A, 5A, 6A and 7A heads. I bet there will be an easy 20 HP gain with Sanderson 1 5/8" shorties, X pipe and 2.5" exhaust over the crappy SBO manifolds and 2" OD duals on my 70S. Run the BBO W/Z hi po manifolds, don't use the low performance regular manifolds if you want manifolds. Get the ones with the larger od exit and run 2.5" pipe.

 

[MrSony]

I'm not saying they won't make more power, but for how cheap manifolds are and how easy they go in, and only a 20hp gain, the thorton manifolds imo would be a better choice for a DD. But if he wants headers, more power to him.