BUILD THREAD '78 Cutlass Supreme Lichen Edition

[78Delta88]

You also have to remove the two Star washers. Those are manufacture aids that holds the drum on as it goes down production assembly line. That also shows if those have never removed..., no one has ever replaced those brakes before.

If that is the case and as rusty as it is you need everything new to do the work correctly.

Red line it and replace all. New shoes, cylinder, hold down hardware, star wheel adjusters and new drums. Turn the drums, and flush the old fluid.

 

[78Delta88]

On this one as is... The ridge isn't the problem. Lock washers are still on and drum is most likely fused to the axle flange.

Remove the washers... Heat the drum to break the fused metal. Smack with hammer. Should come loose and come off.

 

[doood]

On this one as is... The ridge isn't the problem. Lock washers are still on and drum is most likely fused to the axle flange.

Remove the washers... Heat the drum to break the fused metal. Smack with hammer. Should come loose and come off.

Thanks for all the help guys. I did not see any star washers. It makes sense that these brakes are original and no one has been in here before, since 26,000 miles.

Eventually I pushed the wheel cylinder into the drum; that didn't help loosen the springs much, so I beat the drum off with hammer on blocks of wood and about 300% vigor... much more than I was comfortable with, but all looks SAT, except the disintegrated lumber.

New cylinder installed; new line installed. I've got a hardware kit; I'll get new shoes tomorrow. I'll figure out putting back together with this jigsaw puzzle tomorrow. Then on to the other side. I see the finish line.

I did see that $250 brake drum puller. Tried to get autozone to lend it. No dice. A tool like that is not in the cards. Lol

 

[78Delta88]

They are actually not called "star" washers, just don't remember the technical name. I'll dig into it get you actual name. They are placed on the stud after the drum is on. They keep the drum from falling off as the car goes down assembly line.

They are stampings made from very thin spring steel, and it could be they rusted away and just left like a ghost image in the rusty metal where they used to be.

This one....


And this one....


Also note threads on this stud need chased or stud replaced. The threads look fairly damaged and can cause lug nut to cross thread. If you don't have the proper die to recut the threads, you can use the nut, but put on by hand (1/2 inch drive) not impact. Or you can end up on side of road with a nut that won't come off.

Note I used word "can" meaning "possibility"..., future tense. You also need to inspect threads on the 5 nuts, you don't want to put the nut with gummed up threads on another stud, or now you have two studs with damaged threads.

But you got the drums off and that's good. The best is Jack up rear of car from center section and put Jack stands under axle..., one per side. Put up high enough so that you have enough room to work.

When ever you do brakes pull drums both sides and do all the replacement parts one side at a time. This way you have the other side to look at in case you forget how it goes back together. This is also another method for you to QC your work, and make sure it is back together correctly.

Just remember it's basically like a mirror image. And the star adjusters are particular to a specific side. Get those reversed and they will not work.

 

[78Delta88]

Is that a cinder block holding up the car??? NO NO NO. That will get you killed or Body parts being amputated!!! Use Jack Stands.

Do not use jack up and locked and cinder block under the frame. Recipe for disaster and it only takes failure once!

 

[SoFloG]

Yea I second that about the cement blocks man super sketchy. Jack stands are a cheap mandatory investment. Also take a pick and make sure those pushnut retaining washers are in fact not on the studs they can make it almost impossible to remove drum. Are those original shocks?

 

[69hurstolds]

They are actually not called "star" washers, just don't remember the technical name. I'll dig into it get you actual name. They are placed on the stud after the drum is on. They keep the drum from falling off as the car goes down assembly line.

I believe they're called "push nut retainers". AKA "quick nut washers" or "internal starlock washers." Not really required, but will keep the drum from falling on your foot unexpectedly when doing a brake job. GM listed it under "Ring, push on retainer" or "Retainer, push on". Now I think it's just "Nut, multi-purpose". Lots of names, but usually just one purpose on your brake system.

On G-body olds, they're also used on the recliner bucket seat back lower chrome piece on each corner to hold them to the seat as well as the radiator support bolt/bushing stack and tiny ones used to hold the dome light to the roof support on non-t-top cars. May be used other places, but those areas escape me atm.

 

[doood]

Yea I second that about the cement blocks man super sketchy. Jack stands are a cheap mandatory investment. Also take a pick and make sure those pushnut retaining washers are in fact not on the studs they can make it almost impossible to remove drum. Are those original shocks?

I have jackstands. The car is just higher than the 3 ton jack stands extend. It isn't as sketchy as it looks, but point taken. Can't wait to get the car down off of them. There is multiple sets of blocks... some under load, some backup, but no excuses. I appreciate the comment. The blocks also help to keep the car from rocking. I have the front of the car on ramps; one is turned around 180 to help keep it from rocking.

Yes, original everything. Car has been sitting for a long time. Plan is to rebuild the brake system and the carb and make it somewhat road worthy. Down the road, get it in the air again and do the shocks, when I have more cash.

 

[69hurstolds]

If you have to use a cinder block for anything, always use it with the holes vertical. That is the strongest position for the block. Just like building a wall with them.

While never the greatest choice of automotive support, a cinder block (concrete block) can typically hold a compressive force of 2500 psi on its side (holes vertical). Problem is, if there's a hairline crack where you don't see it, it won't hold crap and could crumble catastrophically. If you used, say, good blocks on sides with a 4x4 across the two for frame support on one end of the car, it would distribute the weight better and be much safer. Sure, many people store their car body on them with the 4x4's when doing a frame-off, but they don't crawl under them. Or shouldn't. Body weighs a lot less than the entire car anyway.

In any case, jack stands on a solid surface is your best bet if at all possible. Backup plans are always good as well.

 

[78Delta88]

Thanks for that, I found some diagrams but not any nomenclature.

Same on cinder blocks ... Not as bad if you turn them vertical, but still... Blocks bad, Milk Crates bad..., sketchy stacks of 2 x 8s bad..., Jack stands good.