78 Grand Prix project

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G-Body_Vet said:
That sucks to hear that. I'll have to take a look at the crank next time I go to the shop. The other option is the graphite rope seal that Best Gasket makes.

I have not had time to take a closer look at mine, but it sure seems to be coming from there. I'll be using the Best Gasket version if that's where it's coming from. I wish I would have at least added in oil and let the engine tilt back on a hoist for awhile. Not a perfect test, but it may have revealed the leak.

That Pioneer unit is nice, is that the SFI approved version? That's what I used on mine.
 
67rstbkt said:
That Pioneer unit is nice, is that the SFI approved version? That's what I used on mine.

Yes it is. I didn't want a stock replacement, and couldn't justify the cost of an ATI. This one looks like a good balance of quality vs price.
 
Haven't posted any updates in awhile so I figured I'd post a few pics. I'm just about done coating the floorboards, then I'll be running brake and fuel lines so I can set the body back on the frame. Yeah the runs look like $hit, but I'm building a driver, not a show-car.


If anyone has been curious about the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, I gave it a try. If you've watched the video on they're site, it doesn't apply nice and pretty like they demonstrate. I suppose it would if you taped the hose to a stick or something :rofl:
I only used one can and it wasn't enough to finish both rear frame rails, plan to buy 2 cans for the rear if you want to try this stuff. I don't have any complaints about it. It's a a booger/Incredible Hulk/olive drab color when it dries. Here's a few pics.





I also ordered an oil pump from Precision Oil Pumps http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/-st ... Detail.bok which should be here Monday.

This may be overkill too, but I got one of the intermediate shafts from Nitemare Performance. I didn't want to go the cheap route on my oiling system considering what I'm spending on everything else. Here it is compared to the Melling HD IS-54A. I've seen these Melling shafts listed as being hardened (according to Summit), other sources say they are not. I do like the fact that the one from Nitemare is sleeved.

 
I've got a friend who uses the internal frame coating. Time will tell on how well it helps out. I plan on using it on my wagon frame while getting it ready.
 
Finally have pistons! Now I'm on the fence with either a flat tappet or a hydraulic roller cam. I hope this thing will be fully built by October.

 
Go with the hyd. roller, with the crap oils out today a friction cam sets you up to have to use performance oils, that's like $80 for an oil change. The roller cams free up a motor real nice, and have come way down in price over the years. Why spend all that money just to have a cam lobe wear off to early
 
I've been considering all of those point too and really want to go HR. It's a good thing I didn't set a budget because it would've been blown out of the water. You get what you pay for though.
 
Just make sure you consult someone about the ramp, and duration of a hyd. cam. Way to many guys put a fast acting cam with a large duration, that could kill the torque your large inch engine can make. It looks like you have a quality shop that you are using, they should know what to do for your engine. Don't be afraid to have a quality company like Comp. Cams custom grind one for you, the cost isn't much and its worth it. Off the shelf cams are for stock rebuilds or underpowered noise makers. I don't know anything about Pont. but some blocks require machine work for the lifter tie bar to have room to clear.
 
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